PEX size/layout for new hose bibs

Discussion in 'Irrigation / Sprinkler Forum' started by mikha'el, Mar 12, 2021.

  1. mikha'el

    mikha'el Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2015
    Location:
    Texas
    G'day all,

    Existing plumbing is all in-slab copper - 1" incoming service, 1/2" tee ahead of softener loop feeding two hose bibs. I'll be running PEX to new hose bibs at each corner, from a 1" manifold of some sort.

    Any suggestions on PEX sizing, individual homeruns vs. trunk/branch, etc? We're on city water, no idea on the pressure.
    The old 1/2" copper has been adequate for our use, though could probably use an upgrade for future irrigation.

    Thanks for the help,
    Michael

    hose bib layout.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
  2. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Orlando, Florida
    It's kind of rare that you're fed with a 1" pipe. I'm assuming you had some freeze damage with the copper at or near the spigots? Don't fix what's not broke.

    Branch off with 3/4" or 1/2" to the spigots. If these are to be used for watering the yard and garden, the connection must be before the water softener. If these are for yard use only go with 3/4". Home runs or loops? It doesn't mater for spigots since you are usually using one spigot at a time. If you plan to use two spigots at the same time for watering, go with a 3/4" loop and branch to the spigot with 1/2" pex. I might suggest place a spigot inside the garage on the soft water side. Washing vehicles with soft water leaves no water spots.

    For irrigation you usually want the controller and connection at near the house water entrance and near power. Size pipe to use depends on water pressure and flow, how large of a yard, how many zones needed, how many sprinklers and type of sprinklers. If you can place all zone valves at one location it is easier for maintenance and repair but usually more pipe is used. The Rain Bird web site has a good planner for irrigation design. For irrigation using 1" pipe for distribution to the sprinklers is preferred and then branch off with 3/4" or 1/2" to the sprinklers. If you make the zones too large with too many sprinklers, you can drop your pressure so much that the home won't have enough water for use while the irrigation is active. There was a post here about a year ago when the shower was in use, the shower head would suck air when the irrigation system turned on.
     
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  4. mikha'el

    mikha'el Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2015
    Location:
    Texas
    Thanks for the reply :)
    No damage to any piping - just a couple PEX compression manifold connections that failed, plus a manifold valve that leaked when I tried to close it. Fortunately I was able to get out to the big box (and they were open) for parts to patch it together. We were melting snow to flush the WC... o_O
    The valve insert is replaceable and I'll swap out the compression w/ crimp. Manifold itself tested ok.

    Even though the copper isn't leaking, the installation (1989-ish) wasn't exactly top-notch - flattened bends at the stub ups, etc. All of the bathrooms plus kitchen and laundry have moved/reconfigured anyway.

    Yes, tee off ahead of the softener bypass. Thinking of adding a 1" open 4-port manifold and taking 1/2" homeruns out to the hose bibs.
    The longest run will be about 60' - hopefully ok with 1/2"? I could make it a 3/4" trunk to the far side, but was hoping to avoid burying any fittings in the wall/ceiling. Would also have to DIY a manifold to get a 3/4" port.

    The manifold will have a 1" port off the end - in case the next owner should want to put in a system.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
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