P-trap alignment

[KarenZ]

First time doing any plumbing in 69 years of life and it is way out of my field.

I saw a post from 2016 from DanW about my issue, but can't figure out how to add a question to this.

My P-trap is very slightly off from the pipe coming from the sink. My neighbor stopped by to show us what to do but my husband was the only other person who could fit in the tiny bathroom. So, using what neighbor said we finished installing our new vanity and installed the counter (with its sink) on to the top. So, all is now firmly in place.

I am the person doing the plumbing and no one is available to learn what I am doing wrong. The only thing left is the attachment of the drain stopper/sink drain to the P-trap. I cannot align it straight enough to make the drain stopper set flush with the sink and attach the drain pipe to the P-trap. Yes, the PVC pipe was glued in place by the builder 32 years ago. I do not know how to cut PVC so that I can install a new trap system. Can you tell this total novice how to cut this? I have only rudimentary knowledge of basic tools.

Thank you from a woman who is feeling pretty stupid and very discouraged by this entire project.

 

[Reach4]

I suggest that you post a photo showing where the pipe connects to the wall, the tailpiece (where the water comes down from the sink) and any obstruction problem.

Regarding cutting PVC, a hacksaw can do that. You would be careful to keep the cut square. Make sure there is enough straight pipe remaining to let you glue on what you need to glue on.

Usually you would want a trap adapter at the wall, but sometimes you put an elbow there, followed by a trap adapter.

To upload a photo, keep it under 800 pixels and 200 kilobytes. You can also post the photo elsewhere, and post a link here. In that case, make sure the link can be used by the public.

 

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[Mliu]

Cutting PVC is easy. You can use a hacksaw, sawzall, ratcheting knife cutter (if the PVC is "young"; old PVC can shatter). Even a string can be used to cut PVC. My concern is that you appear to be at out of your depths for this job. Why isn't your husband able to assist you?

As for your alignment problem, it would really help us help you if you posted pictures.

 

[Mliu]

Btw, to help keep your cut straight on the pipe when working in an awkward position, wrap a piece of masking tape around the pipe with one edge of the tape being where you want to cut. Mark on the tape with a pen which edge is your cut line.

 

[KarenZ]

Neither of us has previous experience. At least I have a family history of watching dad do things like this. We just thought we could handle this. I've done ok so far. He does the heavy lifting, I do the wall repair, the painting, learning plumbing very slowly, and more. It's more my project than his. No reason a woman can't learn.

 

[KarenZ]

I suggest that you post a photo showing where the pipe connects to the wall, the tailpiece (where the water comes down from the sink) and any obstruction problem.

Regarding cutting PVC, a hacksaw can do that. You would be careful to keep the cut square. Make sure there is enough straight pipe remaining to let you glue on what you need to glue on.

Usually you would want a trap adapter at the wall, but sometimes you put an elbow there, followed by a trap adapter.

To upload a photo, keep it under 800 pixels and 200 kilobytes. You can also post the photo elsewhere, and post a link here. In that case, make sure the link can be used by the public.

 

[KarenZ]

The easiest way for me to add photos is through this link. I took everything apart again, found some play in the pipe attached to the tail piece, and this is where I currently am.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10218463768939491&id=1652432171

 

[KarenZ]

I will probably pack it in for the night. I will pass your information on and unless it gets done while I sit on a boat in Lake Erie tomorrow, I will cut and install a new P-trap on Sunday.

Thank you for your cutting advice. Here's hoping it gets done while I'm freezing my butt off tomorrow.

 

[Reach4]

I think you are saying that things almost fit, but the trap is under compression. So you are thinking to cut the PVC pipe behind the existing trap adapter, and gluing on a new hub pvc trap adapter. That gives you the added space.

Your plan sounds good to me. I am not a plumber.

About 1.3125 inches of 1-1/2 inch pvc pipe will go into the trap adapter hub when glued, but maybe plan for 1.5 inches of pipe to give yourself some margin.

 

[Mliu]

Neither of us has previous experience. At least I have a family history of watching dad do things like this. We just thought we could handle this. I've done ok so far. He does the heavy lifting, I do the wall repair, the painting, learning plumbing very slowly, and more. It's more my project than his. No reason a woman can't learn.

My comments were neither a criticism nor a condemnation. I was simply expressing my concern. Plumbing may look simple, but there's actually quite a bit of knowledge, skill, and experience that goes into the trade. When you asked about how to cut PVC, my mind immediately questioned whether you knew how to solvent weld PVC pipe. Most people without experience think it's just "glueing two pieces together." It is not. There are actually a number of important steps involved to do it correctly, and even many people who've been doing it for years do it wrong because they never learned the proper procedure.

The reason I asked about your husband wasn't because I think women are incapable. It's because you told us that he was the one who was coached by your neighbor. If both of you knew that you would be doing the plumbing work alone, then why weren't you the one being coached, at least on the plumbing part of the job?

 

[Mliu]

Yes, the PVC pipe was glued in place by the builder 32 years ago.

Which PVC pipe are you referring to when you say it "was glued in place"? Hopefully not the trap arm.

The hub of the Trap Adapter fitting should be cemented to the drain pipe. The Trap Arm should slide into the slip joint (SJ) of the Trap Adapter. The slip nut (pointed to by the arrow from the Trap Adapter label) should unscrew to allow you to loosen the slip joint. That will allow the Trap Arm to slide in and out of the drain pipe. If you're able to slide it in and out but you can't slide it in far enough to make your connection to the bottom half of the P-Trap, then pull the Trap Arm all the way out and cut about 1/2" off the end. Then re-insert and make your connection.

These plastic trap arms are very thin so they're easy to cut. You should be able to do it with a sharp knife or some utility shears.

 

[Terry]

You have room at the wall to cut the pipe shorter and install a new trap adapter. Whoever did that the first time left it too long.

 

[KarenZ]

THANK YOU, everyone, for your helpful advice. Yesterday while I was gone the ptrap problem was fixed with a flex trap. I was trying to avoid that, but it's in, it's working, it does not leak - yet - I sealed the counter and installed the back and sideplashes with silicone. Nowhere in the directions does it suggest a bead of silicone along the join of the splashes where they meet the counter on the front, which surprises me. I think every exposed join should be sealed. So, we are done, finally, with a huge part of this job.

Thank you, again.

 

[Mliu]

Yesterday while I was gone the ptrap problem was fixed with a flex trap.

I don't know who installed the flex trap, but they did NOT fix your problem. Flex traps are horrible and should not be manufactured or sold. The ONLY time they might work for a while would be in application where the water being drained was absolutely clean and clear, like a condensation or melting ice drain. Even then, I would not recommend or use a flex trap.

Take out the flex trap and install a proper P-trap like what you had before. All the info you need to solve your alignment problem is in the posts above.