Onespigotpressure
New Member
My subdivision recently became saturated with new houses and I noticed the plumbing pressure in my home was significantly reduced at the municipal incoming water source. This happened over time and I was the first resident in a 120 acre subdivision and relatively had decent water pressure for the last 15 of 20 years I have lived here. Then it started to diminish from original 45psi to 35psi over the last 5 years. I was told there was nothing the municipal water source could do because the subdivision plumbing had 3” pipe plumbing and it would be years before upgrading would be considered. Other neighbors complained of low water pressure as well but again no help from the water company. I personally feel this is an issue I can file a lawsuit over but you run the risk of losing a case and you spend money anyway. I have been quite unsatisfied with the water pressure but this was not the only problem and complaining to the municipal water source achieved no satisfactory results. I continuously had dirty and yellowish colored water with the smell of ammonia / chlorine and a lot of toilet bowl staining and lime corrosion on multiple fixtures. I had to replace three hot water heaters and several fixtures over this 20 years mainly due to lime build-up. Moreover, the local water company recently failed the minimal level arsenic and ecoli tests two years in a row and I was sure my water being provided was not healthy and possibly unsafe, despite preventative counter -measures by the water company to chemically treat their water to correct this problem. To make matters worse, the local municipal well was 1/2 mile away and my average ground level location was 1/2 way above the height of the municipal water tank. I can actually see the water tank from my location nearby. I was told by a municipal water employee that the water level in the tank was only maintained and pumped to the 1/2 level height of the tank.
So, finally I took matters into my own hands and installed a new Davey pump with a smart control Tortorium 2 (flow rate operated - not pressure switch operated) along with an Aquasana elaborate water conditioner / filtration system inline after the pump. The new pump solved my immediate water pressure problem and the water filtration system has significantly cleaned up the water quality problem but now I have a new problem. The new problem is I have a water spigot located in-line after the Aquasana filtration system and when multiple use fixtures of the water source are used simultaneously, the water primarily goes out the spigot located nearest the pump first in-line with the plumbing while water pressure in other house fixtures is significantly reduced to a dribble. When no use of water from this spigot is utilized, the water pressure is sufficient for the rest of my two story house. The head pressure in the house seems to be adequate when the water spigot is not used.
My question is how do I get the pressure to even out for all house fixtures including this water spigot other than (1) replumbing this spigot to a mid-house located connection or (2) adding a stronger booster pump? (3) I know I could add a pressure reducing valve just after the main feed and to the spigot feed but I still want to maintain good pressure at the spigot as well. My new pump appears to short cycle quite often when this spigot is opened trying to keep up with the flow rate. Normal household water pressure is now 62 psi in a closed circuit and drops to 40 psi when opened - but short cycles when this spigot is opened quite often. Otherwise, the pump can keep up with the flow rate of other simultaneous house fixture uses, with the exclusion of this spigot.
I was thinking option (1) relocating this spigot connection feed to the plumbing in the mid-house location would likely help the situation but it also seems logically using an added sustained pressure volume system (water pressure dropping over time) like with the use of a large 86 gallon pressure tank inserted in the plumbing after the pump would be more effective in allowing the pump flow rate to recover and help keep up with exit flow rate of pressure.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Thanks - one spigot pressure
So, finally I took matters into my own hands and installed a new Davey pump with a smart control Tortorium 2 (flow rate operated - not pressure switch operated) along with an Aquasana elaborate water conditioner / filtration system inline after the pump. The new pump solved my immediate water pressure problem and the water filtration system has significantly cleaned up the water quality problem but now I have a new problem. The new problem is I have a water spigot located in-line after the Aquasana filtration system and when multiple use fixtures of the water source are used simultaneously, the water primarily goes out the spigot located nearest the pump first in-line with the plumbing while water pressure in other house fixtures is significantly reduced to a dribble. When no use of water from this spigot is utilized, the water pressure is sufficient for the rest of my two story house. The head pressure in the house seems to be adequate when the water spigot is not used.
My question is how do I get the pressure to even out for all house fixtures including this water spigot other than (1) replumbing this spigot to a mid-house located connection or (2) adding a stronger booster pump? (3) I know I could add a pressure reducing valve just after the main feed and to the spigot feed but I still want to maintain good pressure at the spigot as well. My new pump appears to short cycle quite often when this spigot is opened trying to keep up with the flow rate. Normal household water pressure is now 62 psi in a closed circuit and drops to 40 psi when opened - but short cycles when this spigot is opened quite often. Otherwise, the pump can keep up with the flow rate of other simultaneous house fixture uses, with the exclusion of this spigot.
I was thinking option (1) relocating this spigot connection feed to the plumbing in the mid-house location would likely help the situation but it also seems logically using an added sustained pressure volume system (water pressure dropping over time) like with the use of a large 86 gallon pressure tank inserted in the plumbing after the pump would be more effective in allowing the pump flow rate to recover and help keep up with exit flow rate of pressure.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Thanks - one spigot pressure