No soft water

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mamg5

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Have a fleck 7000sxt. Started getting less soft water after about 6 years or so. Started by rebuilding the valve with new seals which helped, but then water got hard over time. I replaced the resin with 10%, but still no change. I did the test where I ran the brine draw cycle and tested for salinity at the drain tube and water was not salty and showed 1.0 on refractometer. I think that means my seal is still good. Brine draw and fill both happen correctly. Any reason I'm still not getting soft water?
 

WorthFlorida

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I once had the O-rings in the bypass valve (slide type) dislodge and was mixing hard water with the soft. I had to open it up, replace the O-rings and after cleaning hard water deposits, lube it with silicone grease.
 

Reach4

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During the regen, the water should get salty at the drain tube, maybe 10 minutes into the BD (brine draw) cycle. If the salt hits too quickly, there is a problem that we could discuss.

I have not used a refractometer, I read that it measures salinity. Fine. A cheap TDS meter is good for the job. The TDS will jump to well over 1000 when the salt hits. Tasting the drain water is the cheap way, and the way that does not require shopping.

The brine should all be sucked out of the tank in about 15 minutes into the BD cycle, give or take. If the brine is not being sucked down to the air check valve, that is a symptom to pursue.
 
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mamg5

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Reran the bd cycle and right around the 9 min mark it shot up to 1000tds so it looks like it's working. Brine is all sucked out by the time the cycle is done. Maybe I should get hardness test too see what's really going on. I just remember the water being softer before. May have been from high salt usage. That's the bypass I have. I'm looking at it and can't see how it would mix. If anything I think it would just leak out if rings were bad. Still haven't figured out how to take clips off without breaking even with depressurizing.

 
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Reach4

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That delay before the brine hit the TDS meter at the drain shows that the connection at the top of the distributor tube is good.

Brine should finish being drawn on the order of 25% into the brine cycle. I presume you did not time that part.
 

WorthFlorida

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mamg5

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I've never taken one apart nor worked on one. Your type of bypass is probably OK since it uses a 1/4 turn valve similar to the faucet.

Look at page 14 & page 20 (part 4). Bypass could be going on inside the valve body.


Yup did the seals piston and brine valve about 6 months ago. It has been getting better maybe water heater was built up over time.
 

Reach4

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I believe I have bd set at 60 and it starts sucking air around 14 minutes or so.
It should not be sucking air, because the air check valve at the end of the dip tube should close. The remainder of the BD time is the slow rinse, where the brine bolus slowly (laminar flow) moves thru the tank and the resin, and out the drain.
 

Bannerman

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believe I have bd set at 60 and it starts sucking air around 14 minutes or so.
That signifies 14-minutes to draw that quantity of brine down to the air-check valve.

Assuming your system is equipped with the common Fleck 6002 Brine Pick-up Tube (photo of Air Check valve below), that air-check utilizes a ball that will float within the screened enclosure while the brine is higher. Once the brine is drawn down to the midpoint on the screen, the ball will come to rest on the upward facing inlet port, which will seal off the port and will stop air from being drawn. Occasionally, a piece of salt bag string or other debris will enter through the screen and will prevent the ball from sealing the inlet port.
122-product-detail.jpg.thumb.1280.1280.jpg



Suggest removing the Brine Pickup Tube from the brine tank brine well so as to flush out the inlet port using a laundry or garden hose. On some, the air-check screen is removable.
 

mamg5

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I did replace that in the last year or so, but even after installing I still get some air. I'm guessing it's something along the brine draw line that's leaking? When I replaced the pickup tube I did check connections maybe one came loose. Would air entering cause this type of issue?
 

Bannerman

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Any air that leaks in, will reduce the vacuum in the tube needed to draw brine from the brine tank. Is the brine within the brine tank being drawn down all the way to the mark on the side of the air check valve?

If the brine is not being drawn down fully, then there will be a leak at one of the brine line connections.

If the brine is being drawn down fully, the air will be entering through the air check valve as it is not fully sealing. Regardless of the air check being relatively new, any debris that entered maybe preventing the ball from sealing off the brine port.
 

Reach4

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If you are sucking much air, I think most people would notice spurts of air coming out of faucets following a regen. Have you noticed spurts of air?

Also, many have a translucent polyethylene brine line, and if you backlight it, you could see air bubbles after the brine gets sucked out during BD.
 

mamg5

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Yes the brine is being fully drawn down. Once it reaches the bottom its a combination of air bubbles and water in the line. I'll have a look at the ball again. I do not notice any spurts of air after rebuilding it all. Before it would do it occasionally. I would of thought once the ball got sucked in it would just be a clear line with no water moving.
 

Reach4

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Should be no bubbles. It could be the air check valve, or the connection where the brine line hooks up to the pickup assembly.
 

ZiggyGT

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I had a similar issue with air when I turned on the facets occasionally along with super salty water. I cleaned everything pretty well, taking the check valve out and running a lot of water in the tube. Later after cleaning everything i found a little blue piece of a plastic bag that I know was not there before. I have not seen and farting facets since. Still nervous about a mouthful of salt water. been drinking bottled water while I sort out what is going on.
 
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