New 30/50 pressure switch cutting in under 25 and cutting out at 40

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Kristina Jackson, Aug 5, 2020.

  1. Kristina Jackson

    Kristina Jackson New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2020
    Location:
    Ohio
    Yesterday I lost pressure in my faucets. I recently disinfected my well. I believe, although not entirely sure, sediment shook loose and built up on the diaphragm of my old switch, and caused it to malfunction. It was around seven years old, and It was crusty when I took it off. I went and bought a new 30/50 pressure switch today, and replaced it, the nipple, and the psi reader. The new one also has a low pressure cut off switch. When I first installed it, it was operating at 28/48, I also checked the air in the pressure tank itself and it is at 28. Fast forward a few hours, and I’m running my tub and washer at the same time and all of a sudden my faucets go dry, the low pressure switch shut off the well pump(submersible), also seven years old. I flipped the switch and the water started right back up, now the switch is reading at 22-25 cut in and 40 cut off. The pressure tank is still reading at 28. Could anyone help me please with what could wrong? I don’t know if this means anything as well but the pipe has little shake to it when the cut off kicks.
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    1. Confirm that the pump is a submersible pump (down the well).
    2. Is the pressure switch connected very near the input to the pressure tank? A photo showing the pipe from the well, the pressure switch, and the pressure tank input would be good.
    3. If the pressure switch really does turn on at 28 psi, turn the nut on the big spring clockwise 0.7 turn. In other words, turn it clockwise almost 3/4 of a turn. That should make the cut-on pressure move up by about 2 psi. Do not adjust the nut on the small spring.
     
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  4. Kristina Jackson

    Kristina Jackson New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2020
    Location:
    Ohio
    1. Yes it is submersible. It’s around seventy feet down a 4 inch casing.
    2. The pressure switch is about six to eight inches from the inlet to the pressure tank. I’m sorry I’m at work and can’t get a photo right now, will post when I can.
    3. I was afraid to adjust the settings because I read that they come factory set, and needed atleast at 20 psi differential to avoid running the pump too much. It is no longer cutting in at the 28 psi it is now kicking at the 22-25 mark and only raising to the lower 42-45 before the cut off happens. This switch is barely 10 hours old. Still adjust it or is it signifying a bigger issue?
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    The nut on the smaller spring controls the differential. Leave that alone.

    If you feel uncomfortable adjusting the pressure switch, reduce the air precharge by 1 or 2 psi. Air precharge is measured and set with the water pressure zero. Once the water pressure drops to the same as the air precharge, the pressure drops very fast.

    Most people don't use a pressure switch with a low-pressure cut-off.
     
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  6. Kristina Jackson

    Kristina Jackson New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2020
    Location:
    Ohio
    The switch that was on it before did not have a low pressure cut off. It was just a regular 30/50. The guy at the store said protects well pump, and I thought GREAT! Sign me up! I don’t know much well systems to be honest, I’m learning as I go, and my dad isn’t around to ask anymore. Would it be better if I just did away with the switch with the low pressure cut off, and got one without? Also why is it that they don’t use them?
     
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Maybe, but if you add some differential in the pressures, the trip will probably not happen.

    They can be a nuisance, such as if the power goes out for a while and you use water. Also, they may not protect if the well runs dry anyway. Plus many wells are in no danger of running out of water.

    I have not seen people write that they have such a switch, and it turned out to be helpful. That may be that people aren't so inclined to post that. I am not a pro.
     
    valveman likes this.
  8. Kristina Jackson

    Kristina Jackson New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2020
    Location:
    Ohio

    I just wanted to say thank you for your help! Be it pro advice or not☺️ The pipe ended up springing a leak, it was so corroded, it crumbled in my hand! So I ended up just replacing all of it, except the line that goes down to the well pump. She’s an old house, and It was all old galvanized lines, so I just said the heck with it and went with all brass for that area of pipe. The switch was still being complicated even after the pipe change, and kicking at 20/40, so I just adjusted it up like you said. So far so good! Although I fully regret buying that Dang low pressure cut off switch lol. I guess in my panic over my pipes I didn’t fully think through what the switch would do. The last time we had issues with the well, the little connection piece that makes the pump able to be lifted out was broken, and we had to dig down about six foot, to where the line Comes into the house to be able to get the pump out. So anything with the well acting up instantly panics me. It’s been fixed and should be fine for the next time it decides to take a crap, but still it makes me overly anxious lol I wasn’t concerned about my well drying up, in this area that’s pretty unheard of. My thought pattern was if a line blows inside the house it will kick the pump off so the water doesn’t just continuously flood in. I soon realized that made no sense at all lol anyways thank you so much for taking the time to respond!
     
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