Need help setting up new well

Users who are viewing this thread

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
so I just had a new well drilled 700ft down to the trinity here in central TX
I had them do a test and it's 850ppm producing 15 gallons per min
I would like some pointers on setting up the pumping system as I am a DIY person and will be plumbing it in the new house by myself
I plan on having a 500 storage tank that the well pumps to with a goulds booster pumps after that...then going to a 86 gal amtroll pressure tank. I have seen the tee kits onine that come with gauge,tee,union,valve 40/60 switch etc. and will buy one of those to put into the pressure tank fitting.

please let me know any tips or setup no no I should keep in mind

will be using 1.25 PVC pipe
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
35,514
Reaction score
3,671
Points
113
Location
IL
I would like some pointers on setting up the pumping system as I am a DIY person and will be plumbing it in the new house by myself
You should have a well/pump installer do the pump install almost 700ft down.

If you are describing what kind of pump to have installed 700 ft down, you need to figure out the usage. 7 to 10 GPM is enough for most houses without a cistern without big showers and not doing regular of irrigation, and 5 GPM would probably be good with a 500 gallon tank.

Are you asking what to use from the tank to the house/barn/water trough? A 1/2 HP submersible horizontally in the bottom of that tank has some advantage over a jet pump outside of the tank. You say goulds booster pump... do you mean a multi-stage centrifugal booster pump with the inlet coming out of the bottom of the 500 gallon tank? That would be very good... it's like a submersible pump.

Are you asking what kind of softener to use with your 850 ppm of hardness? You really want other numbers before deciding what kind of water treatment you want. Include iron, manganese, arsenic, pH numbers. Probably others that I am not thinking of at the moment.

Your design will need to consider freezing.
 
Last edited:

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
Thx
yes I purchased a booster pump LB1012
I won't be doin the well pump...they are setting that up...essentially I will take it from the well head and run it to the tank and house
I got 2 switches up and down for the storage tank already
how many unions or check valves and shut offs should I have and where?
I guess what I'm asking is if you could do it all how it should be where are the best places to put the valves etc to make it serviceable yet reliable
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
13,355
Reaction score
956
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
If you want service and reliability, get the right kit and you also do not need that 86 gallon tank. That would be a good application for a Pside-Kick kit. It has everything you need.
 

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
so tell me about the pside kick kit
I was told that those types of systems would shorten the pump life
....
if I had a 86 gal pressure tank instead how much run time could I expect before the pump had to kick on and fill tank again?.. I am assuming with the pside kick kit it would almost immediately kick on bc that tank is so tiny
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
35,514
Reaction score
3,671
Points
113
Location
IL
if I had a 86 gal pressure tank instead how much run time could I expect before the pump had to kick on and fill tank again?..
http://www.pumpvendor.com/media/goulds/Goulds_LB_series.pdf
See the curves on page 3. Your 1 HP pump will be pumping around 15 GPM presuming you will run 40/60 PSI. Your pressure tank will have a little under 23 gallons of drawdown. So a little under a minute and a half of minimum run. You might have been better off with a 1/2 or 3/4 HP motor, except maybe for your fire protection needs.

The Pside-Kick costs less than the big pressure tank, tank tee, gauge, pressure switch and takes less space. The 86 gallon Well-X-Trol tank will serve well in a household environment with few turn-ons for toilet flushes and hand washing. The big pressure tank allows you to have a yard tap between the well and pressure tank. The pressure switch should always be at the pressure tank. http://cpkits.com/products/pk1a
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
13,355
Reaction score
956
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
so tell me about the pside kick kit
I was told that those types of systems would shorten the pump life
....
if I had a 86 gal pressure tank instead how much run time could I expect before the pump had to kick on and fill tank again?.. I am assuming with the pside kick kit it would almost immediately kick on bc that tank is so tiny

The number of cycles per day will be the same with the Pside-Kick kit and 4.5 gallon size tank as it would be with an 86 gallon size tank and no CSV. The difference is the CSV system will make the pump cycle a few times for things like toilets and hand washing, but will keep the pump running continuously for longer uses like showers and garden hoses. While the big pressure tank system will let you flush a few toilets without the pump coming on, but will cause the pump to cycle repeatedly when using water for longer terms like showers and garden hoses. But the number of cycles per day will be the same with both systems.

When you are using water for longer terms like a shower, the large tank will deliver varying pressure as the pump cycles from 40 to 60 PSI then drains from 60 to 40 PSI. So part of the time you are in the shower you will have 60 PSI and part of the time you will only have 40 PSI. With the CSV and small tank, you will have a strong constant 50 PSI all the time, even if you are in the shower for a month. And a steady 50 PSI delivers much stronger shower pressure than an average 50 PSI, as when the pump cycles between 40 and 60 over and over.

You already have 500 gallons of water stored in the supply tank. And as Reach pointed out, an 86 gallon pressure tank only holds 23 gallons of water. 23 gallons would not even be enough for a shower. The ONLY reason for a large pressure tank is to limit the pump cycling. And when you have a Cycle Stop Valve to do that for you, a large tank is no longer needed. The Pside-Kick kit is less expensive, takes up less space, is easier to install and service if needed, and delivers stronger pressure than a large pressure tank. The big plus with the CSV is that there is virtually no flow rate you can use that will cause destructive cycling of pump, even if water is being used 24/7 and 365.
 

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
Thanks guys....looks like pside kit is on order for me..

What about a check valve? I am assuming the driller will install a few or at least one inside the well piping but do I need one above ground and where?

also is it ok to use pvc ball valves or should I bite the bullet and buy brass?
 
Last edited:

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
What size pipe can I get away with when plumbing all this stuff in? I plan to have in this order with a few bypass valves and unions... well pump-storage tank--inline heavy media filter-check valve-boosterpump--- pside kick/tank assy with pressure switch/gauge/relief valve etc -- softener--inline fine filter-- house..

I bought 2 of these in line filters that have 3/4 inlets...wondering if I should return them for larger pipe inlet or am I ok with 3/4.


theres this one I can buy also to use it has a larger 1 inch inlet


I am wanting one to strain the sediment early by booster pump and then one just before it enters the house for finer filtering
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
13,355
Reaction score
956
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
You can filter between the well pump and storage tank. But you do not want a filter on the suction of the booster pump. (too much restriction) You can aslo filter after the Pside-Kick kit all you want, but not between the booster and the Pside-Kick kit.
 

mrimike

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, Texas
Ok sounds good... I will plan a filter just after the pside kick for heavy sediment... then a Tee for the irrigation.. then the finer micron filter for the house inlet
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks