Need Help local well guy stumped

[Stan wyman]

hi new to forum. 2 years ago drilled new well and installed a 2 hp 18 gpm pump set at 200 ft in 330 well. Also installed CSV. Worked great for 1 1/2 years then started to go Haywire. Pump tries to start but goes off. Replaced the pump with 1 1/2 hp 18 gpm pump. New pressure switch, new control box, new breaker. Still have the same problem. Local guy doesn't have a clue what is wrong. I also have the old well with a 1 hp pump which works good no problems. Same pressure switch but different control box. What am I doing wrong. Only other thing I can replace is 12 gage wire from well head to control box. Wiring in well is 10 gage. NEED HELP PLEASE

 

[Reach4]

then started to go Haywire. Pump tries to start but goes off.

Are you saying that the pump produces water for 1.5 seconds, and then cuts off, or the pump does not produce water, or what?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

First a 1.5HP, 18 GPM pump will only build to 60 PSI shut off if the water in the well is less than 200' deep. A 2HP will work with a water level as deep as 300'.

What was wrong with the first pump, if anything? Have you checked the voltage to make sure it is not just 115V? With everything new, if it ohms out and you supply the correct voltage, the pump should run.

 

[Stan wyman]

The pressure switch goes on but the pump does not run. Is you open and close the pressure switch several times it might start . Water level in well is 80 ft. It's like the pressure drops quickly to 30 lbs and the pump won't start. The is elect. Going to the control box but the pump doesn't start. I have a 40-60 pressure switch.

 

[Stan wyman]

Are you saying that the pump produces water for 1.5 seconds, and then cuts off, or the pump does not produce water, or what?

Pump does not start

 

[Reach4]

Sounds like a bad control box. It could be a bad wire or connection.

Get a clamp-around ammeter and measure the current of the 3 wires out of the box in the first couple seconds of power on, and then turn the power back off.

I am not a pro.

 

[Stan wyman]

First a 1.5HP, 18 GPM pump will only build to 60 PSI shut off if the water in the well is less than 200' deep. A 2HP will work with a water level as deep as 300'.

What was wrong with the first pump, if anything? Have you checked the voltage to make sure it is not just 115V? With everything new, if it ohms out and you supply the correct voltage, the pump should run.

The local well guy convince me the 2 hp pump was bad. Water level is 80 and stays there with pump running. Could I have a problem with CSV?

 

[Stan wyman]

Sounds like a bad control box. It could be a bad wire or connection.

Get a clamp-around ammeter and measure the current of the 3 wires out of the box in the first couple seconds of power on, and then turn the power back off.

I am not a pro.

We did that and found no problem, 240 volts

 

[Valveman]

The CSV has nothing to do with it. The pump would just continue to cycle on and off if the CSV failed.

 

[Reach4]

We did that and found no problem, 240 volts

An ammeter measures amps.

 

[Stan wyman]

An ammeter measures amps.

8-11amps

 

[Stan wyman]

Is it possible that one of the check valves is leaking. The pump starts to come on the just doesn't start as the pressure drops below the cut off value. The pressure switch stays closed and there is power to the control.

 

[Reach4]

Is it possible that one of the check valves is leaking. The pump starts to come on the just doesn't start as the pressure drops below the cut off value. The pressure switch stays closed and there is power to the control.

Your symptoms do not match that.

 

[Craigpump]

Control box is bad

 

[Stan wyman]

Control box is bad

All parts are NEW including the breaker in the elect. box

 

[Stan wyman]

All parts are NEW including the breaker in the elect. box

Is it possible that the check valve is not opening to allow water through?

 

[Craigpump]

Open discharge at the well head, if you have water there look someplace else. Process of elimination, but don't keep throwing parts at it until it works without reason.

 

[Stan wyman]

Ok here is the verdict. I pulled the pump again. At the second check valve when taken off the nut holding the plunger on was less than half a thread holding it on. Touched the nut and it FELL off. With the nut that loose it was allowing the plunger to go to far up the pipe and closing off the flow of water to the well head. Lesson learned.

 

[LLigetfa]

Why do you have more than one check valve? There should only be one at the bottom of the well.

 

[EmyJ]

Are you saying that the pump produces water for 1.5 seconds, and then cuts off, or the pump does not produce water, or what?

First, be sure the power is on
Start by checking that the well switch located near your pressure tank hasn’t been switched off. Then check the well’s double-pole circuit breaker to see that it hasn’t tripped. If it has, reset it. A breaker that keeps tripping likely means a problem with the well pump, and you’ll need to call a pro for that.

Then check the pressure switch
(Photo 1) You’ll find the pressure switch mounted on a 1/4-in. tube near the pressure tank. It’s what senses when water pressure has dropped to the point where the pressure tank requires more water. The switch then powers up the well pump.

If the switch is bad, it won’t start the pump and you won’t have water, so testing the switch is your first step. Remove the cover and bang a screwdriver handle sharply against the tube below the switch to jar the electrical contacts. If you see a spark and the pump starts, the pressure switch is the problem. Replace it. A new switch is about $25. If there’s still no spark, you’ll have to replace the controller.

If the switch is bad, replace it
(Photo 2) If you find the pressure switch is bad, test the pressure tank to make sure it isn’t waterlogged (see ‘Problem: Pulsing Water’). To replace the switch, start by removing the wires to the old switch (be sure to label them) and unscrew the switch. Coat the tubing threads with pipe dope or Teflon tape and screw on the new switch so it sits in the same orientation. Then reconnect the wires.

Temporary quick fix
(Photo 3) If banging on the tube under the pressure switch kicked on the pump, it means the contact surfaces of the electrical contacts are pitted or burned, causing a poor connection. You can temporarily restore the surfaces to keep it going until you can buy a replacement switch.
courtesy : https://www.familyhandyman.com/plum...pump-troubleshooting-and-diy-repair/view-all/