Need help: how to best add a cleanout to a line in the crawlspace

[Dig Doug]

I have a line from the sink to the other side of the house that I cannot unclog by snaking or using Bio-Clean. It's about 40 feet long with a couple of twists before it disappears into the wall and goes for I'm not sure how much further. The horizontal 40 feet is not slanted well for at least 20 of those feet. I plan to try to slant it at 1/4 inch per foot, but I have also decided I want to cut the pipe right before it disappears into the wall and add a cleanout to see if I can snake it from there and/or use Bio-Clean. Based on what I've seen reading (I'm not even a novice plumber), I should be able to cut the pipe and add a wye. I was hoping for a little confirmation before I did that and make sure that was the best way or at least a good way. And also make sure the piece I was planning to use is what I'm calling a wye. Below is a snapshot of what I am calling a wye. Also, below that is a snapshot of the pipe as it nears disappearing into the wall (behind the duct work). Any confirmation or alternate suggestions? Thanks in advance. Doug

 

[Jeff H Young]

sure you can do that. dont put it flat roll it up so you can run water through while snaking

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dig Doug]

sure you can do that. dont put it flat roll it up so you can run water through while snaking

Thanks. By “roll up” do you mean have the Opening of the wye at the top?

 

[Jeff H Young]

yes or off a bit to one side but higher is better you can also put a 10 inch piece of pipe in so it dosent spill out, think about comfort working the snake as well

 

[GL77]

We had a clog issue with a kitchen drain and had similar access to the pipe in the basement. We opted to just cut out a section of pipe about 10' long and replace it, it was totally clogged with grease. I'm religious about keeping grease out of the drain ever since then, I can't believe how careless I was before that.

 

[Dig Doug]

Thanks. I hope to try this this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

It turns out I won't be able to get 1/4" per foot slope, because they hung it all too high, but should be able to rehang it to get 1/8" per foot; I am hoping that is enough.

One last (I hope) question: I plan to make absolutely sure the pipe before it disappears into the wall is absolutely clear, which will mist likely require me to cut it in one, possibly two, places. For joining that back together, is a flexible coupling like the snapshot below just as good as cementing in a regular coupling? Using a flexible coupling I could take it off later on if I needed to separate the pipe again.

GL77, we first had this issue a few years ago and since then put nothing down the drain and scrape every plate as best as we can before putting in the dishwasher.

 

[Reach4]

IPC allows 1/8 inch per foot slope for 3-inch pipe. For smaller pipe, that may work, but is not going to meet code.

For a flex coupling above ground, you should use a shielded coupling-- like your picture, but with a metal band around the rubber. It is as good as glued.

Some people run the cleanout to the outdoors. That is particularly nice if you think that will have to be used fairly often. Snaking in the crawl space will not be so comfortable.

 

[Dig Doug]

Success! Cut out about 40 feet of pipe, cleaned lots of junk out of it, put it all together with an added cleanout, got as close to 1/4" slant as I could and life is good now again. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Well you can be our test guinepig if 1/8th inch fall provides trouble free drainage. if you eliminated flat spots and are more careful I wont be suprised to hear it works satisfactory. good luck !