Need advice on Toto 1 GPF vs 1.28 GPF Toilet

[johnster]

Hi all,

I am in need of a new toilet for a bathroom. I always have to replace the flappers of my other toilets in my other bathrooms (Gerber and Carlyle II) at least once a year because they get all gunky (algae/mold?) and leak. It doesn't matter what I do, drain all the water... clean with vingar... replace the flapper etc the stuff eventually comes back. I have soaked the walls of the toilet with vinegar and let the vinegar sit there for a while. I have moderately hard water, would that cause these growths to come back easier?

In any case I was looking at ordering a new Toto 1 GPF or 1.28 GPF model. Currently looking at Ultramax II, Eco Soiree, and Eco Guinevere. I read some posts on this forum that said the 1.0 GPF have more complicated internals. Since I am replacing my flappers like once a year on all my toilets, I was a little concerned it would be more difficult/cost more money for me to replace the flapper on the 1.0 GPF toilet when they get gunky like my other toilets.

Could someone with more knowledge give me some advice on this? Stick with the 1.28GPF in my situation or will the 1.0 GPF be ok? Thanks!

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, the life of the rubber parts in a toilet are very much dependent on your local water chemistry. If you're on a well with no need to treat the water, those parts will likely last a bunch of years. Public systems that are aggressively treated, like (apparently) in your case, those extra chemicals can take their toll. My local water tends to cause the rubber to get soft after 2-3 years. This causes the center dome to start to sink, making the outer rim more of a saucer verses a plate, and eventually, it can't keep the seal. Any chemicals you add to the tank will make the rubber parts fail sooner.

The less water used in a flush also requires that the total water in the bowl ends up less, along with less bowl wash. The bowl/flush design can only go so far. Don't know the history of the replaceable parts, but the functional differences may play a part in your decision.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

Just last week I installed a Toto Drake II 1.28 (CST744E). It's amazing that it can flush using 1.28 gals. Last year I had a ToTo 1.6 Drake installed and also excellent. Both units use a flapper design. I do not have an answer for you but the 1.28 model your looking at is probably a flapper design.

Here is the parts diagram for the Ultramax 1.0 GPF. It's definitely not a flapper design but there are no detail diagrams or pictures. Either way is must use rubber like parts to make the seal.
https://www.totousa.com/filemanager_uploads/product_assets/PD-00836_MS604114CUFG.pdf

This is from the ToTo web site: https://www.totousa.com/product-faqs
What is toilet mold, and how do I get rid of it?

 

[Reach4]

always have to replace the flappers of my other toilets in my other bathrooms (Gerber and Carlyle II) at least once a year because they get all gunky (algae/mold?) and leak. It doesn't matter what I do, drain all the water... clean with vingar... replace the flapper etc the stuff eventually comes back. I have soaked the walls of the toilet with vinegar and let the vinegar sit there for a while. I have moderately hard water, would that cause these growths to come back easier?

I would use a little bleach. If you want, I could suggest a dose.

If you have a deep well, you might want to consider sanitizing your well and plumbing when the weather is good enough.

 

[johnster]

I have city water, not well water. How much bleach should I use? Do I just drain the water, scrub the inside of the tank? Thanks.

 

[Reach4]

Revised. I would try one tablespoon of bleach in the tank. Swish around. Add 2 tablespoons of vinegar. Stir. Let it sit for an hour or overnight. Add some dish soap. Stir more. Scrub some.You could scrub with a clean toilet brush if you have one. Flush.

If that doesn't do it, you could add more bleach next time and try again.

I figure that you will have on the order of 60 ppm of chlorine before it reacts with what is there and weakens. For well and plumbing sanitizing, 200 ppm or more is usual, so the 1 tablespoon is a pretty safe amount.

While chlorine can reduce the life of flappers with years of contact, a 24 hour soak won't hurt.

I wonder if your city water has residual chlorine by the time it gets to your toilet tank.

 

[Jadnashua]

I'd try turning the water off, draining the tank, then using some MoldEx. You can buy it concentrated where you need to dilute it for a sprayer, or in a spray bottle. One gallon of the stuff will make MANY gallons of normal use stuff. I don't think this will degrade your rubber components. Last time I bought it, I ordered a jug from HomeDepot, since they didn't stock it in my local store. Shipped to the store, you don't pay shipping and it came pretty quickly. I use it in the shower periodically as well.

 

[Koa]

Revised. I would try one tablespoon of bleach in the tank. Swish around. Add 2 tablespoons of vinegar. Stir. Let it sit for an hour or overnight. Add some dish soap. Stir more. Scrub some.You could scrub with a clean toilet brush if you have one. Flush.

If that doesn't do it, you could add more bleach next time and try again.

I figure that you will have on the order of 60 ppm of chlorine before it reacts with what is there and weakens. For well and plumbing sanitizing, 200 ppm or more is usual, so the 1 tablespoon is a pretty safe amount.

While chlorine can reduce the life of flappers with years of contact, a 24 hour soak won't hurt.

I wonder if your city water has residual chlorine by the time it gets to your toilet tank.

I know this is from last year. I was searching for something else and ran across this post. Maybe with the dilution with the tank water it doesn’t matter, but it should be mentioned chlorine and vinegar should never be combined.

https://www.thoughtco.com/mixing-bleach-and-vinegar-609281

 

[Reach4]

but it should be mentioned chlorine and vinegar should never be combined.

Not never. Yes, don't mix undiluted chlorine bleach with vinegar, but it is a good idea to add both vinegar and chlorine bleach to your well during sanitizing-- sequentially. Just don't bring the pH too low. At pH 4.5 and 5, the bleach is much more anti-bacterial without generating chlorine gas. You want test paper to help you know the pH.