Mystery water in HW catch pan

[Chris O'Neill]

Hello I currently have a Richmond 40 gal gas water heater that I put in 13 years ago this month
Well water with softener

this morning I woke up and could hear a drip drip drip coming from the utility closet. I had about 2 inches of water in my hot water heater drain pan and water was dripping from the T&P (top of heater with copper tube running down towards pan) I pulled the TMP lever up and then back down and rotated it around a little bit and the drip stopped

I will say I have probably only drained it three or four times in the 13 years and I have never replaced the anode rod. I do not have a thermal expansion tank Should I just go ahead and replace the hot water heater? Need to add the expansion tank?

i’m not exactly sure when the water came out it was cold to the touch so it either happened the evening before or overnight never heard it do it just heard the drip

 

[LLigetfa]

Well water with softener

Generally, most well water systems are not closed meaning there should not be any check valve between the HWT and the pressure tank so there should be no need for an expansion tank. I say most as there are a few iron filters that have a check valve integrated. Also, if the softener was installed a short distance from the HWT, a check valve may have been installed to keep hot water from backing up into the softener.

Go buy a pressure gauge with a garden hose thread and screw it to the drain cock on the HWT. Open the drain cock and observe the pressure overnight. The TPR valve should only relieve at around 150 PSI or if the water is too hot.

If the TPR is faulty, then replace it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Chris O'Neill]

Generally, most well water systems are not closed meaning there should not be any check valve between the HWT and the pressure tank so there should be no need for an expansion tank. I say most as there are a few iron filters that have a check valve integrated. Also, if the softener was installed a short distance from the HWT, a check valve may have been installed to keep hot water from backing up into the softener.

Go buy a pressure gauge with a garden hose thread and screw it to the drain cock on the HWT. Open the drain cock and observe the pressure overnight. The TPR valve should only relieve at around 150 PSI or if the water is too hot.

If the TPR is faulty, then replace it.

Thanks I’ll grab one ( ive seen terry post a pic before )

and thanks for clarifying on the expansion tank.. makes sense ..

I figure I’m probably close to EOL on it but I’d really rather spend the money and upgrade to a tankless it’s currently subzero with a foot of snow on the roof so it’s not the best time to convert from metal to pvc vent

 

[Reach4]

Usually, with your own well you don't need to add a thermal expansion tank. There are some water treatment things that have a check valve, but most don't. It still won't hurt to get that pressure gauge. They are cheap enough, and they can be useful.

Test your T&P valve. When you operate the lever, water should come out. When you release the lever, water should stop coming out.

I tested my T&P valve a couple months ago, and I found it would not open. I replaced the T&P valve.

 

[LLigetfa]

Test your T&P valve. When you operate the lever, water should come out. When you release the lever, water should stop coming out.

Sage advice but there is a good chance it won't shut off once activated so you best put yourself in a position to replace it right away.

When I had my last water heater replaced, the installer tried to open the TPR to let air in so the tank would drain faster but it would not open. It had been leaking a tiny amount, not enough to drip, just enough to corrode and build up with limescale.

 

[Reach4]

age advice but there is a good chance it won't shut off once activated so you best put yourself in a position to replace it right away.

Depends. It could be that the valve sticks open, but you can force the rod down with your finger. Now you have a little time.

If you cannot force it shut, some people are close enough to the gittin' place that shutting off the WH supply for a bit won't be a problem. Of course you would want to time it to when the store is open, and consider the likelihood that the thing you need is in stock. For others, things are not so available.

I got motivated to test because somebody I know had her basement flooded because the T+P opened on its own, and did not close down.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Hello I currently have a Richmond 40 gal gas water heater that I put in 13 years ago this month. Well water with softener. This morning I woke up and could hear a drip drip drip coming from the utility closet. I had about 2 inches of water in my hot water heater drain pan and water was dripping from the T&P (top of heater with copper tube running down towards pan) I pulled the TMP lever up and then back down and rotated it around a little bit and the drip stopped. I will say I have probably only drained it three or four times in the 13 years and I have never replaced the anode rod. I do not have a thermal expansion tank Should I just go ahead and replace the hot water heater? Need to add the expansion tank? i’m not exactly sure when the water came out it was cold to the touch so it either happened the evening before or overnight never heard it do it just heard the drip

Since it is gas, yes, well worth replacing it. T&P valves do fail and will weep water. Since it stopped weeping water after you opened it you may have relieved the pressure that builds up during the night. With the extreme cold you well water temperature may have dropped and it now takes more energy to heat and the water expands more than usual. The expansion will increase as the water heats thereby increasing pressure. It will weep or open at 150 PSI. Since you have a well and pressure tank this becomes less likely unless there is a check valve after the pressure tank.
ANother issue, as hinted above, is rust. The T&P will corrode and if rust forms it will expand and causes the valve to weep water. When you open it is flushes out debris or rust and may seal up again.

 

[Chris O'Neill]

I ran to menards and picked up a gauge and a replacement t&p valve since they carry Richmond.. I’m going to test the pressure in the am when I get home from the fire station.. but more than likely I will just replace the valve it was like 15 bucks..if it buys me time till warm weather that would be great..I really didn’t want to spend 550 on a new heater now and not be able to upgrade to a tankless i still need to do some homework to see if the tankless is my best option

 

[Chris O'Neill]

Pressure in tank 40psi there is some corrosion on the t&p vace.. I did get a new one but this one on the tank sure looks like a female brass t&p valve all the replacement valves I’ve seen are male..

 

[Reach4]

I expect your existing T+P valve is male to the tank. To remove the existing one, remove the drain pipe. Turn T&P CCW with a big wrench.

 

[Chris O'Neill]

your correct it was male. I just replaced it and fired the heater back up I peeked inside the tank before sticking the new one on.. obviously couldn't see the bottom but the inside was cleaner than I figured it would be. anode rod was about the size diameter of a straw so im thinking its about toast.