Moving Sink Trap Angle....options?

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J Blow

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This is a pretty common question and the fact that I've read many of them and don't see the option I'm hoping for makes me think it isn't one...but here it goes.

I moved a double sink vanity about 6-8 inches so now the wall drain location is just far enough away that the J trap won't adjust enough to connect without some reconfiguration. It's the standard setup with a trap adaptor, tailpiece, etc. It seems the 'proper' solution is to remove the trap adapter and replace it with a 22.5/45 elbow but with such cramped working quarters I was hoping to find some sort of 45 degree joint that connects to the trap adapter via slip joint so I can then connect the tailpiece through that. I'm assuming this would be some sort of double slip joint unit as I've found the elbow below but wondering if I'm using it properly or that's not an intended application.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-P9665-1-1-2-x-1-1-2-45-Double-Slip-Joint-Elbow-White

p9665-3.jpg


Thanks!
 

wwhitney

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So that depends on your plumbing code. Looks like South Dakota uses the UPC with some amendments, but I'm not sure. If they haven't amended the section, then you are limited to one slip joint fitting on the outlet side of the trap:


A solution might be the Pasco Freedom Arm, a 1-1/2" tubular trap arm that includes a 22.5 or 45 degree bend in it. See pages B-52 and B-53 of their catalog:


Cheers, Wayne
 

J Blow

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So that depends on your plumbing code. Looks like South Dakota uses the UPC with some amendments, but I'm not sure. If they haven't amended the section, then you are limited to one slip joint fitting on the outlet side of the trap:


A solution might be the Pasco Freedom Arm, a 1-1/2" tubular trap arm that includes a 22.5 or 45 degree bend in it. See pages B-52 and B-53 of their catalog:


Cheers, Wayne
Hi, Wayne. Thanks for the thoughts. That looks like it would work. I was hoping to get this done without having to order something and wait so if I'm not tied to code (but still want good function) what would be the options you could see with being able to use a second slip joint fitting....something like I posted?

Thanks, again!
 

Reach4

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What you propose would probably work quite nicely. If you posted a photo that included the trap and the trap adapter, then we could probably be more sure.

Another thing that can be useful is to get a slip joint double offset, and cut it around the middle. That might simplify. Pretty widely available.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Double-Off-set/1000383333 is a plastic one, and they also come in brass. With slip joint you can mix and match. Plastic is cheaper and easier to cut.

Maybe consider a view from below with your cellphone. To upload to this site, you will need to crop to no more that 1000 pixels. 600x800 is plenty big. Plus you would want the picture to be a JPEG that is compressed pretty well. I am not sure of the upper limit, but 200KB is small enough.
 

J Blow

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Photos attached.

I went to the store and bought two sets of supplies - one is the double slip joint elbow I referenced above, the other is a threaded adapter that screws onto the marvel trap adapter so I can add a regular glued 22.5/45 pvc elbow and then glue another marvel trap adaptor to the other side. Is one way better than another?

Thanks.
 

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Reach4

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I am not familiar with that threaded adapter that screws onto the marvel trap adapter.

Then with a new trap, with a longer trap arm, you bring the U of the trap out farther from the wall, and feed the trap arm into that 45. Experiment as best you can without cutting.

One more thing: how much pipe is between the wall and the existing trap adapter? One thing that could also help is to cut that pipe, and glue on a 45, maybe a street 45. Or get a spigot trap adapter to fit a regular 45. The problem I could see then is the paint on that PVC might make it hard to get the 45 glued on. One more thing... there are also 22.5 degree bends.

Cutting that double bend would mean no new gluing, as long as things work as I envision it.

Maybe your existing trap would fit, but I am thinking it would be too close.

So my thinking would be to get a slip joint 45 cut from that double slip joint piece. I am thinking that
 

J Blow

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Reach4, it's too close to the wall to really risk cutting it for me.

I am probably using the wrong term but the adapter is just a coupler that I am talking about threading on to the marvel....is really common. Feels too easy so probably wrong. Screw this on my trap adapter and then glue in the 22.5 and then the trap adapter to that again.

Also makes it so you can dismantle it if necessary.

22FJ09_AS02
 

Reach4

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Yes, the ability to undo it if it does not work is good. I think each way we are discussing has that feature.

So maybe cut out a cardboard model of a 45. See how the trap will approach the line. Try swinging the U the other way.

Maybe use a toilet paper core or paper towel core for your trials.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1...b-x-Spigot-Street-Elbow-C48082HD112/205799554 is a street 22.5, but other sellers have that readily available.
 

J Blow

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Yes, the ability to undo it if it does not work is good. I think each way we are discussing has that feature.

So maybe cut out a cardboard model of a 45. See how the trap will approach the line. Try swinging the U the other way.

Maybe use a toilet paper core or paper towel core for your trials.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1...b-x-Spigot-Street-Elbow-C48082HD112/205799554 is a street 22.5, but other sellers have that readily available.

Good ideas.....but since I already have enough 'parts' to do this job 4 times I'll be able to dry fit it pretty closely.

I'm just really questioning myself after reading over tons of others posing this question and not seeing someone thread on a coupler like this but instead cutting off the trap adapter among many other things.

Thanks!
 

Reach4

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There is more than one right way.

Bet you wish you could get a trap like in my avatar.... that is a fake. They don't exist.
 

Reach4

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Just thinking.... If I did want to fabricate one like that, I might take a rough brass slip joint p-trap, saw vertically thru the bottom of the U, bridge the cut ends with a short piece of type M copper pipe, and solder that in place. I expect it is not to code, but I also suspect it would work fine.

While thinking of potential unusual solution, how about getting a common polypropylene trap, and curving the trap arm? https://pipe.technoluxpro.com/en/sg...propilenovuyu-trubu-sposoby-rekomendacii.html says you can bend polypropylene with the help of some heat.

When bending some things, one technique to prevent the pipe from collapsing/buckling under the strain is to fill the pipe with sand. Use "sand bending" as a Google search term.

I am liking this bending idea more and more. Originally I was thinking of bending a brass p-trap trap arm, but if you can do it with plastic, that would be cheaper and probably easier.
 
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