Milky white water after regeneration

[Monguila]

Hello everyone. I am looking for some guidance on my water softener.

1. Old fleck 5600 valve.
2. I have had the unit for the years with no maintenance. I purchased it second hand and I do not know how long the other owner used it.
3. 10 GPG hardness
4. Settings: 20, with 12 bags of salt.

After each regeneration, the tap water is milky white - see picture. After sitting in a glass for a couple of minutes, the water clears.

I did a manual regeneration a couple of weeks ago and the watercolor of the rinse cycle resembles was coming out of the tap.

Time for a new valve? New media? Or both?

Thank you in advance for your comments.


Luis

 

[Monguila]

After some further searching, it appears that it is air that is causing the initial milky film. In fact, looking at the glass carefully confirms that air bubbles are coming up to the surface, then clearing.

How is the air getting in the system after a WS regeneration? Is it normal? Or perhaps a valve issue?

Thank you,

Luis

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

How is the air getting in the system after a WS regeneration? Is it normal? Or perhaps a valve issue?

1. There can be a suction leak in the brine line. This would cause air to come in both before and after the brine is drawn.

2. A bad air check valve can admit air after the brine has been all sucked out.

If your brine line is translucent enough, you might be able to see air during the BD cycle.

You can slather connections with shaving cream during the period of BD, and see if that gets sucked in. That will identify a leak. The connection at the safety float or at the valve are two places to check.

You posted into the water heater form rather than the water softener forum.

 

[Monguila]

Sorry about the wrong forum.

Thanks for the feedback. I am installing a new brine tank, as the old one was split with about 6" of "rock salt" at the bottom. The well structure was also crushed at the bottom. I will reevaluate after the new tank is in.

 

[Bannerman]

4. Settings: 20, with 12 bags of salt.

Not sure what this refers to. Post a photo of the 5600 controller to show the current settings.

 

[Reach4]

Old fleck 5600 valve.

If that is a timed valve that regenerates every so many days, then a new valve is in order. And if your water is chlorinated, you probably need new media. Rather than replacing both media and valve, a new softener would probably be the better choice. Usually those come with a new brine tank and safety float.

If you have the Econominder 5600 with the demand metering and you have well water, you may not need to replace anything, but clean and inspect what you have with the softener.

Do not use rock salt, but rather use one of the salts intended for softeners. In California, solar salt may be the better choice.

 

[Monguila]

Thank you all for your time and comments. I will post a pic if the valve settings later

It is the Econominder valve. The unit performs flawlessly otherwise.

I used pellet salt for years, but now have switched to solar crystals, as you and others have recommended. The bottom 6" or so of the old tank was a sheet of hard, cement like, salt. The well was crushed and cracked at the bottom, imparting the inner parts. I will regenerate today with the new tank and will post the results.

 

[Bannerman]

On the rear of the 5600 is a cam adjustment that will control the number of lbs salt per regeneration cycle. What is the number the pointer is indicating? You may need to remove a rear cover to view it.

What is the softener's total capacity? If unknown, what is the height and diameter of the media tank?

Municipal water source or private well? If private well, is there iron or manganese and if so, how much of each?

Usual water consumption or if not known, usual number of residents in the home?

 

[Monguila]

Thank you everyone for your interests and comments. After regenerating with the new brine tank, the water is crystal clear. And soft...