Leaky faucet handle.

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Ed53511

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I purchased a home that used to be a fire department. It was built in 1960.

I recently started having a leaky faucet in the shower. Whenever we turned on the hot water, the cold water faucet would leak. I recently disassembled the faucets and went to the local Ace hardware store for replacement parts. They did not have the replacement parts. They did however match all the seat gaskets (I think that's what they are called) and o-rings.

When I reassembled the faucets the leaking was much worse. Since that time the leaking has gotten worse and now the water nearly sprays out the handle.

I've reached out to several plumbers and plumber supplies, none of which expressed any confidence that they would be of any help with my problem. As a side note, the plumbing is cemented/concreted into the interior wall for a more thorough review of the issue. We are a few months away from doing a bathroom remodel at which point we will open up the wall.

But for now, I would like to be able to fix the leak. I however don't understand how the hot water could leak out the cold water faucet handle/knob.

I attached a few photos for your review and I am hoping someone might recognize this arrangement and be able to push in the right direction.

Thanks

Shower Faucet (2).jpg
Shower Faucet (3).jpg
Shower Faucet (1).jpg
 
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Jeff H Young

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Water comes out cold handle when hot is open means its the stem packing should have taken pictures when apart it needs re packed which could mean packing washers , string or o rings take back apart and try again its possible the stem is worn and damaged but likely not so it should be fixable I suppose the stem could be repaired by fixing gouges in it if necessary I think its fixable on a DIY basis just a PIA timewise to do the leg work. but take a bunch of pictures when its apart I use calipers to get down to nitty gritty with o rings but just going to supply shop probably quicker for avg DIYer
 

William S.

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Jeff's reply above about repacking the leaking stem points to a solution. Before undertaking that, you could also try tightening the packing nut.

I recently disassembled the faucets and went to the local Ace hardware store for replacement parts.

I also have 1960s era bathroom fixtures. See if there's a plumbing supply house (or an old-school hardware store with a strong plumbing department) near you that might be able to help you ID the brand of the stems. There may be aftermarket replacements available.
 

Marlinman

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The upper shower is American Standard Heritage If it is leaking replace the stem assembly.
The lower tub filler is Logan. Valve seat is 5/8-27 tpi. If this is leaking tighten the packing nut or replace the packing with a
pre-made packing or graphite string.
 

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Ed53511

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Update - First, thank you all for your input. I am just now getting the chance to address the leak.

Added note - The leaking starts cold and turns hot while only the hot water is on but back to cold once the cold faucet is on.

Attached is a picture of the leaking side (cold) stem assembly. There appears to be no packing.



Thanks to Marlinman I am now searching for pre-made packing. If I can't locate one I will try the graphite string.

Thank you very much for the insight. I will be ordering all new stem assemblies shortly.

Just for clarity, however, the upper valves shut off the lower valves. The lower valves control the shower head. There is no tub. It is a shower only.

2 hours later. I just finished installing the rope packing and that cured the problem. Thanks again to everyone who offered advice.

Logan 426301.jpg



Now, to figure out which arrangement I have, from the Heritage image Marlinman shared with me, so I can order all new valves, new knobs, and trim hardware.
 
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Ed53511

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Update: The rope packing repeatedly seeped through and would re-leak so I began a search from the information provided by Marlinman.

So now I finally have the right stem assembly. Some or few (or even one) of the parts were available at many suppliers throughout the US. However, no one had them all in stock at one location. I had to go to the manufacturer to obtain all of the parts. But they did not know what was required (if anything) beyond what they normally provide to the suppliers.

So, now the questions I have now are;

Do I need to add any packing?
Do I need to apply any sealer to the threads and if so which is recommended and which threads?
Is there a grease that is used on any of the threads, or anywhere else, for ease of future disassembly?
Mainly the trim(s) had to be ruined to remove them because of scaling (or calcium or hard water or whatever). And I want to try to avoid that in the future.


Thank you in advance for your insight. It is greatly appreciated.

PS. I am still hunting for the trim for the top valves.
 

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Ed53511

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The rebuild/retrim kit for the upper valve is # N1140KIT

View attachment 91931
Thank you.

Do you mind helping me with a few questions?

So, now the questions I have now are;

Do I need to add any packing to the Logan Kit?
Do I need to apply any sealer to the threads and if so which is recommended and which threads?
Is there a grease that is used on any of the threads, or anywhere else, for ease of future disassembly?
Mainly the trim(s) had to be ruined to remove them because of scaling (or calcium or hard water or whatever). And I want to try to avoid that in the future.
 

Marlinman

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With a preformed packing the Logan valve should be fine with the packing nut tightened.
The only place to use the thread sealant is on the valve seats. Use a teflon based paste.
The Logan valve should have a fiber cap gasket at the top of the thread.
Use plumbers grease between the stems and bonnets.
Hard water deposits and the like will need a regular cleaning.
 
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