Jet Pump Well cap/seal

[reno3204]

Renovating an old home with a jet pump well. The well has no seal on it. I have called two different well companies, sent them this picture and they say no problem we can take care of that and they give me a price. Then before they come and do the service they call back and say they don't usually service that kind of well and it will cost more or they can't get the part. Am I missing something? is there something difficult about putting a cap on this well.

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

Looks like 6" casing, but you need to measure it. 1" drive pipe and 1 1/4" suction pipe. You would need seal like this one. https://www.grainger.com/product/2N...Adxj651l3FTxio6q5s0aAveBEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Getting someone to come out and replace something like a $30 well seal is tough. Even someone working all by themselves could have $300-$500 a day expenses. Most pump guys have at least one helper. Even if they charge you a thousand bucks to replace that seal, they aren't making much money. Nobody even wants to come put in a regular pump or pressure tank. They all want to sell a new "technologically advanced water system" for thousands of dollars. It is no longer about doing what is best for the customer, but rather how expensive a system can you talk them into.

That is why so many people are forced to DIY these days. If you want something done right...............

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

"Well cap" is something you use over a pitless adapter at the top of the casing. What you want is called a "well seal"-- the term that Valveman used.

 

[reno3204]

So if I purchase one of these, can I just lift the pipes up out of the well and run them through the wholes in the seal and install the seal or is there something attached at the end of those pipes?

 

[WorthFlorida]

For now stuff some rags around the pipes. It wouldn't be pretty but it will prevent varmints falling down the pipe.

 

[Reach4]

When you buy a split well seal, I think the top and bottom plates are split, but the rubber between is not. So you would need to split the rubber yourself. If I am mistaken, somebody please let us know.

A split well seal would simplify things, I would think. You had been thinking of a solid plate well seal.

At the bottom of the two pipes is the ejector/eductor. Below that is a foot valve. A foot valve is a combination of a check valve and a screen.

The get is in the ejector along with a venturi.

 

[reno3204]

When you buy a split well seal, I think the top and bottom plates are split, but the rubber between is not. So you would need to split the rubber yourself. If I am mistaken, somebody please let us know.

A split well seal would simplify things, I would think. You had been thinking of a solid plate well seal.

At the bottom of the two pipes is the ejector/eductor. Below that is a foot valve. A foot valve is a combination of a check valve and a screen.

The get is in the ejector along with a venturi.

ok, thanks. Yea when I first saw the split seals I thought that was the solution until I noticed the rubber gasket is not split so you still need to disconnect your pipes somewhere to run them through, unless like you said you can slice the rubber part also.

 

[reno3204]

Looking again at my picture it appears the elbow is connected with a pipe clamp so I might be able to just remove the clamps, pull apart the elbows and add the seal.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe, but it could also be that the pipe is too flared out to go thru the holes. You could maybe cut off some of the pipe to get some pipe that was not stretched out at the top.

Normally you would want two worm gear clamps at the top of those pipes, with the worm gears on opposite sides of the pipe, because those clamps, together with the elbows, are holding the pipes up.

I would consider the split well seal. I have no relevant experience.

 

[Bannerman]

After adding the well seal, you may also need to remove the 1/2" plug to install an air vent.

Air vent example: https://boshart.com/product/pvc-air-vent/

 

[Reach4]

Example:

Maybe this is suitable, and maybe not. You would need a well seal with a split bottom plate as well as a split top plate. https://www.homedepot.com/s/well seal double drop?NCNI-5 That one in the picture above is a Simmons.
This is only an example. You need to measure the ID of your casing, and check the OD of your pipes. https://www.simmonsmfg.com/index.php/our-products/well-seals/well-seal-double-drop-pipe-split-top/ would be a better link to see what is available.

To measure the ID, you may be able to measure the circumference, and divide by pi to get the OD. Then subtract 1/2 inch to get close to the ID. https://www.rpssolarpumps.com/learn...re-a-well-casing-and-well-seals-vs-well-caps/ looks like a very useful page, that includes this picture:

I think a sharp knife would be the tool of choice for splitting the rubber. I could also see using the knife most of the way, and tearing the remainder. I have never worked with a well seal.
https://blog.boshart.com/what-is-a-well-seal is another link for you. I don't know if any well seals have a split top and a solid bottom plate. That would seem to make the split top to be not useful.

 

[reno3204]

Ok, I have the split top seal, but to install it I’m going to have to remove the elbow. How do I keep the pipes from falling back into the well, while I work on them?

 

[Valveman]

Sorry I missed this. The split top is fine, but the gasket is not split. You will need to take the elbows off and probably cut a few inches of pipe off to get the well seal to slip over the pipe. It will be swelled up from the barb fitting. It can't weigh very much or it would be bending the crap out of the poly pipe holding it up. The poly is flexible enough you can just try pulling it up like it is. Just take off one elbow at a time and the other pipe will keep you from dropping it as they are connected at the bottom. You may need to raise the pump up a bit as the hose clamps will actually be sitting on the well seal and it will be higher.

You could just cut the gasket and raise everything up and slip the well seal under the hose clamps. It is not very sanitary with the gasket cut, but much better than it was.

 

[Reach4]

I think to lift those elbows, you will want to use a strap that pulls on something above. I think a ratchet strap could do this. I would want the "endless" type for this, unless you have a lot of clearance.

Would you also want something that lifts the pump? I don't know.

So what is above? Fixed floorboards, or what?

 

[reno3204]

I think to lift those elbows, you will want to use a strap that pulls on something above. I think a ratchet strap could do this. I would want the "endless" type for this, unless you have a lot of clearance.

Would you also want something that lifts the pump? I don't know.

So what is above? Fixed floorboards, or what?

There is nothing above once the well house roof is slid back. I’m going to try laying a 2x4 across the well house walls and tying a rope to it and connect it to the pipes using a pipe hitch knot to pull the pipes up enough to work…. Thanks everyone for the advice, hopefully I’m not writing tomorrow about how to recover the lines from the bottom of the well…

 

[Reach4]

A ratchet strap is easier. Plus, it is wider than a rope, so it distributes the force.

Instead of a 2x4, I might consider a 4x4, if you have not bought the 2x4 already. If you already have 2x4s, maybe use 2 or 3 in parallel.

A pipe hitch knot is usually used to pull pipes in an in-line direction. If you want to pull the horizontal pipes in a vertical direction, I don't know if that knot is so helpful.

Take some photos so that you can post your success.