Issues with well pump/pressure switch

[BrianJR]

Hi folks,

I've run into two issues with my well system, and before I bring in the service guys I'd like to have as much information as possible.

My home/well are both one year old. When I first moved in, my pressure switch was set to 40/60 psi on/off. However, over time I've noticed it is drifting and is operating at at 37/52 psi on/off. My second problem is that I'm loosing water pressure over time, roughly 2 psi per hour. I've used my shutoff value to confirm it is not a running toilet or leak inside the house. So I'm loosing pressure somewhere between the well pump and the pressure tank.

Is it possible these two issues may be related? I have poor water quality (high iron, hard water, low pH), could that be a factor? Perhaps I'm getting mineral/sludge buildup in the pressure switch and foot value? I haven't attempted to do any cleaning myself yet, it's a little out of my comfort zone. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

My home/well are both one year old. When I first moved in, my pressure switch was set to 40/60 psi on/off. However, over time I've noticed it is drifting and is operating at at 37/52 psi on/off.

That could be fixed with a new pressure switch, but you could also use the differential nut (on the smaller spring) to increase the differential.

To raise or lower the cut-in and cut-out settings while keeping the
differential between those two settings constant, adjust the range
nut. The range nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the larger of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G Pumptrol
switches.
Turn the range nut clockwise to increase the cut-in pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-in pressure. Three and a half
revolutions of the range nut will change both the cut-in and
cut-out settings by approximately 10 psi.
Adjust the differential nut if you want to raise or lower the
cut-out setting while keeping the cut-in pressure constant. The
differential nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the smaller of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G switches. Turn
the differential nut clockwise to increase the cut-out pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-out pressure. Adjusting the
differential nut will change only the cut-out setting while the
cut-in setting remains unchanged.​

This is the easy one. I am not a pro.

My second problem is that I'm loosing water pressure over time, roughly 2 psi per hour. I've used my shutoff value to confirm it is not a running toilet or leak inside the house. So I'm loosing pressure somewhere between the well pump and the pressure tank.

The leak could be where you said, but it could also be at the pitless adapter outside or in. It could be at the drop pipe down to the pump. It could be a leaky check valve at the pump.

You could lift the well cap, and look for water coming from the connection at the pitless adapter inside of the casing. I am not saying this is the most likely cause, but it is the easy one to try to check. The leak is slow enough that you can miss it anyway. Use a bright flashlight and look at night, or reflect the bright sun down the casing with a mirror.

Your frost line is deep, so you are not going to see greening of grass near the leak spot. Don't put a tree near the well.

I don't think these things are related.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[BrianJR]

Thanks Reach! Any thoughts on why the pressure switch would have drifted so much after just one year?

 

[Reach4]

Thanks Reach! Any thoughts on why the pressure switch would have drifted so much after just one year?

It gave you a 20 psi differential to begin with, or you are not sure on that? If your pressure switch has a lot of pipe and/or smaller pipe between the switch and the pressure tank input, the pressure switch can cut off early.

 

[BrianJR]

I can confirm it had a 20 psi differential when it was first installed. I'm not sure when the drift occurred or how quickly it happened. It's held fairly stable at 37/52 over the last 3 months or so.

The switch is sitting on a smaller diameter pipe, about 4" in length just at the T where it feeds into the pressure tank.

 

[Reach4]

The switch is sitting on a smaller diameter pipe, about 4" in length just at the T where it feeds into the pressure tank.

That nipple length doesn't matter for this purpose, because it is not carrying flowing water. That nipple could be 3 ft long. Sometimes people use a longer, and maybe wider, nipple to keep sediment/sludge out of the pressure switch.

https://www.rcworst.com/blog/How-To-Adjust-a-Pressure-Switch says 1 full rotation will change the differential 2-3 psi. So maybe start with 2 turns CW on the differential nut, trying to get from 15 psi differential to the normal 20 psi differential. Or just swap the switch, and if you see sludge, get a bigger brass nipple. Measuring the air pressure when the water pressure is higher than the precharge will show about the same air pressure as water pressure. This is useful to compare the calibrations on your air and water pressure gauges.

While working on this, it would be worthwhile to check the air precharge, which is always measured and set while the water pressure is at/near zero.

If your casing is big enough, you could consider lowering a camera to try to take pictures of the underside of your pitless, looking for dribbling. Do not drop, or that would be a very expensive fail. The mount on a standard camera is 1/4-20. Use the macro mode (tulip icon) with a delay. Cellphone that can photograph up close could work, but your selfie stick won't go down the 5 or more feet from the top of the casing. I think your frost line might be about 4 ft below ground.

There is an o-ring generally. It is suggested that you replace that o-ring each time you pull the pump, but that is often not done. Many don't even know what o-ring is needed. Some silicone grease or release compound is desirable when installing o-rings.

 

[Onokai]

(There is an o-ring generally. It is suggested that you replace that o-ring each time you pull the pump, but that is often not done. Many don't even know what o-ring is needed. Some silicone grease or release compound is desirable when installing o-rings.)
Is this the well cap o-ring you are speaking about?

I agree on checking the tank air pressure at zero water pressure-always a good idea.

 

[Reach4]

Is this the well cap o-ring you are speaking about?

No, I was referring to the pitless adapter.

Pitless adapters vary, but the most commonly used today are similar to this:

My pitless adapter is very different than that, but it still has an o-ring inside the casing.

Merrill Manufacturing

Merrill Manufacturing Pitless Adapters have passed CERTIFIED WATERTIGHT STANDARDS PAS-1, PAS-97(2019), ASSE Standard #1093-2019 established and regulated for the industry by the Pitless Adapter Division of Water Systems Council. Bottom of the Male Part and the Top of the Female are Tapered -...

www.merrillmfg.com

 

[Onokai]

Ok I do not have this so that's foreign to me.

 

[Reach4]

Ok I do not have this so thats foriegn to me.

It's the norm in places that freeze regularly. It allows the water piping to stay below the frost line.

I think a pitless adapter could be useful in a warmer place to allow easier pump pulling and setting. The well seal requires unscrewing fittings to pull a pump. Also well seals prevent looking down the casing. But on the plus side, the well seal does not have that o-ring down a ways to serve as a potential, but rare, leak point.

In warm climates, the pitless adapter could be mounted through the casing above ground.

 

[LLigetfa]

Perhaps I'm getting mineral/sludge buildup in the pressure switch and foot value?

Mineral buildup in the pressure switch usually causes the cut-in to lower, increasing the delta. Your delta is decreasing so I doubt mineral buildup. Have you confirmed the pressure gauge is accurate?

 

[Valveman]

It could also just be a bad gauge. The pressure gauge is more likely to drift or give a different reading than for the pressure switch limits to change.