Is this Grohe leaky tub spout diverter repairable??

[Jvstevens]

I know that generally its necessary to replace a tub spout when the diverter has stopped doing its job (that is, water coming out of both the spout and showerhead at the same time). I don't mind so much for a generic, cheapo spout, but this one is a fairly pricey one by Grohe. Can this be fixed, and if so how to do it? Thanks in advance.

 

[Jadnashua]

I know most people don't save the installation instructions, but if you have them, or it is still a current model, you may be able to find it on-line. If it shows a parts breakdown, you should be able to repair it. You might get some satisfaction if you call their tech line.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jvstevens]

I know most people don't save the installation instructions, but if you have them, or it is still a current model, you may be able to find it on-line. If it shows a parts breakdown, you should be able to repair it. You might get some satisfaction if you call their tech line.

I think I finally found the part I need from the Grohe website. I was having trouble earlier trying to find their shower valves, but I finally found a very similar spout (not the exact one, maybe mine is discontinued??). I strongly suspect they have the same diverter mechanism. Its a Grohe 48 023 diverter repair/replacement kit (see picture). Thanks for your response.

 

[Jadnashua]

If it's just the gasket, that should probably work. If the seat is pitted, it probably won't. You might be able to check it out with an inspection mirror.

 

[Koa]

You should try calling Grohe customer service. I've had luck with them sending me free parts, a complete soap dispenser and a couple of handheld nozzle for my kitchen faucets.

 

[Jvstevens]

OK, it seems things have gotten more "interesting". The problem is that when in "shower mode" (diverter knob pushed down), everything is fine...lots of water comes out of the shower head, and little to none from the tub spout. However, when in "tub mode" (diverter knob up, which is the default position), lots of water comes out both the showerhead and tub spout. I had a chance to check out the diverter mechanism, but everything seemed fine with it. Just for kicks, I decided to remove the spout altogether leaving just the stub sticking out. When I turned on the shower valve, water still comes out both the tub spout and showerhead. So, it seems to me that something funny is going on inside the valve, and the diverter has nothing to do with it. I'm thinking maybe something in the valve is partially blocking the water port going to the tub spout. Any thoughts on this? Something in particular I should be looking for, or maybe a particular place I should inspect? Its a single handle Grohe valve (picture in OP), though I haven't yet been able to identify the particular valve model (yet). All help is appreciated!

 

[Jadnashua]

Many of the Grohe (and it's not uncommon for other valves) require what is called a twin ell to connect the spout and the riser to the shower. The smaller outlet of the ell goes to the shower. The larger one going to the spout because of the lower resistance (larger diameter) kept water out of the riser, or if not completely out, at least from rising too far!

If there's any restriction, or the piping size is not correct, or if say you removed the spout and used PTFE tape, and had some in the waterway rather than totally on the threads, it might create a restriction and let water rise to the top of the riser and come out the spout. If the new seals are not installed properly, it could create enough restriction and force some water up the riser...that's the most likely situation.

 

[Jvstevens]

Many of the Grohe (and it's not uncommon for other valves) require what is called a twin ell to connect the spout and the riser to the shower. The smaller outlet of the ell goes to the shower. The larger one going to the spout because of the lower resistance (larger diameter) kept water out of the riser, or if not completely out, at least from rising too far!

If there's any restriction, or the piping size is not correct, or if say you removed the spout and used PTFE tape, and had some in the waterway rather than totally on the threads, it might create a restriction and let water rise to the top of the riser and come out the spout. If the new seals are not installed properly, it could create enough restriction and force some water up the riser...that's the most likely situation.

Thanks for the advice. This morning I had a chance to take apart the valve and check for obstructions. There didn't seem to be anything obvious blocking the port to the tub spout (I snaked it out with a "zip it" drain tool though both ends), and I double checked this particular valve (Grohsafe Pressure Balancing Valve #35 015) and it doesn't require a twin ell fitting (the Grohtherm valve does, however). The installation instructions note that if you use 1/2" PEX instead of 1/2" copper for the tub spout port, you will get water coming out of the showerhead and tub spout, but it appears it was originally plumbed with 1/2" copper. At least what was visible around the valve.

So, now I'm starting to wonder if the plumber installed the valve upside down. The valve looks symmetrical, so it seems possible. I did notice in the valve specs that the flow is 5.8 gpm for the bottom (tub) port and 5.5 gpm for the top (shower) port at 45 psi. So, if it were reversed, flow through the bottom port would not be the preferred route for the water. Other than that, I'm kind of out ideas, unless someone else has some input.