Irrigation off of my Home well

[Victor DeFelice]

I have an existing well supplying domestic water to my house. I want to tap into the supply line and install a sprinkler system on the same well. Are there some very common do’s and dont’s when attempting this?
From the research I’ve done I should try and size my zones (number of heads) so that the pump runs continuously or at least minimizes the cycling.
Do I need a backflow preventer when coming off an existing well line? If so, what kind of backflow and what about a piping diagram? Definitely need to protect my pump. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

V

 

[WorthFlorida]

You're asking a lot.

First start reading about the CSV, Cyclic Stop Valve. https://cyclestopvalves.com/. It will definitely save your pump and give you the continuous water supply without the pump cycling. The inventor and manufacture is a moderator on the forum. He goes by the name "valveman", Cary Austin

Since you're in CT, it'd be better to have the back flow preventer in the basement (if you have one) to protect it from freezing. When the back flow preventer is below the sprinkler heads a double check type needs to be used. If not a vacuum breaker type back flow preventer must be above ground and at least as high as the highest sprinkler. For winter it must be drained. Zurn products are the most popular back flow preventers.

Some Do's and Don't: Generally you want to feed the zones with at least a 1" pipe, then reduce down to 3/4" and/or 1/2" pipe. In other words do not feed one zone where the 1" pipe tees off to feed two or more 1" branches. You would want 3/4" x 1" x 3/4" as a minimum. Do not attempt to dump all the water you can in a short time. If you do there may be no water left for the house while you are irrigating. You'll need to know how many gallons per minute your pump/well can deliver. From there you can determine the size of each zone (# of sprinklers). If you have a 1/4 acre lot or smaller, do go with MP rotors. You want slow watering with longer times to reduce run off.

You want to tee off just after the pressure tank. Never tee off after any water softeners or other large tank type filters.

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/. is about the best on line source for irrigation info. They have many videos and even how to winterize a back flow preventer.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Victor DeFelice]

You're asking a lot.

First start reading about the CSV, Cyclic Stop Valve. https://cyclestopvalves.com/. It will definitely save your pump and give you the continuous water supply without the pump cycling. The inventor and manufacture is a moderator on the forum. He goes by the name "valveman", Cary Austin

Since you're in CT, it'd be better to have the back flow preventer in the basement (if you have one) to protect it from freezing. When the back flow preventer is below the sprinkler heads a double check type needs to be used. If not a vacuum breaker type back flow preventer must be above ground and at least as high as the highest sprinkler. For winter it must be drained. Zurn products are the most popular back flow preventers.

Some Do's and Don't: Generally you want to feed the zones with at least a 1" pipe, then reduce down to 3/4" and/or 1/2" pipe. In other words do not feed one zone where the 1" pipe tees off to feed two or more 1" branches. You would want 3/4" x 1" x 3/4" as a minimum. Do not attempt to dump all the water you can in a short time. If you do there may be no water left for the house while you are irrigating. You'll need to know how many gallons per minute your pump/well can deliver. From their you can determine the size of each zone (# of sprinklers). If you have a 1/4 acre lot or smaller, do go with MP rotors. You want slow watering with longer times to reduce run off.

You want to tee off just after the pressure tank. Never tee off after any water softeners or other large tank type filters.

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/. is about the best on line source for irrigation info. They have many videos and even how to winterize a back flow preventer.

You're asking a lot.

First start reading about the CSV, Cyclic Stop Valve. https://cyclestopvalves.com/. It will definitely save your pump and give you the continuous water supply without the pump cycling. The inventor and manufacture is a moderator on the forum. He goes by the name "valveman", Cary Austin

Since you're in CT, it'd be better to have the back flow preventer in the basement (if you have one) to protect it from freezing. When the back flow preventer is below the sprinkler heads a double check type needs to be used. If not a vacuum breaker type back flow preventer must be above ground and at least as high as the highest sprinkler. For winter it must be drained. Zurn products are the most popular back flow preventers.

Some Do's and Don't: Generally you want to feed the zones with at least a 1" pipe, then reduce down to 3/4" and/or 1/2" pipe. In other words do not feed one zone where the 1" pipe tees off to feed two or more 1" branches. You would want 3/4" x 1" x 3/4" as a minimum. Do not attempt to dump all the water you can in a short time. If you do there may be no water left for the house while you are irrigating. You'll need to know how many gallons per minute your pump/well can deliver. From their you can determine the size of each zone (# of sprinklers). If you have a 1/4 acre lot or smaller, do go with MP rotors. You want slow watering with longer times to reduce run off.

You want to tee off just after the pressure tank. Never tee off after any water softeners or other large tank type filters.

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/. is about the best on line source for irrigation info. They have many videos and even how to winterize a back flow preventer.

You’re correct, I am asking a lot and I greatly appreciate your input and professional advice. I will do all of these things that you mention. Again, thank you very much!