Inconsistent water pressure when Fleck 5600SE is in service.

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, Questions and Answers' started by nasonjo, May 26, 2020.

  1. nasonjo

    nasonjo New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Location:
    Maine
    I have 2 Fleck 5600SE water filters. One is a water softener and another is filled with katolox light and is for iron manganese and sulfur. When this filter is in bypass my water pressure is great. When it is in service the pressure goes down and fluctuates randomly. Is this due to clumped you media or could it have something to do with the actual control head? I have someone coming out in a few days to repack it (which I could probably do myself) but didn’t want them to do it if that’s not the problem.

    I know that’s not a lot of info but can you guys think of anything else that could be causing this pressure issue besides clumping of media? Or a crack in the distributor cap...

    Also, how would I depressurize the system with only one bypass valve? Everything I have seen you put the system in backwash and then shut inlet line off and leave outlet line open for a few seconds then shut it. I don't have separate shutoffs just one bypass.

    Fleck 5600SE 1.jpeg Fleck 5600SE 2.jpeg
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You have two 5600SXT valves. I understand that some label says 5600SE, but you have the SXT controllers.

    Let me take the easy one. If you turn off the valve following the pressure tank, turn off the supply valve to the water heater, and open a low faucet until the water pressure at the faucet is zero, that will depressurize both in-service units.

    Insufficient backwashing of the KL is probable. You appear to have natural unpainted tanks. If you backlight the softener tank with a strong light in otherwise darkness, you will see the shadow of the resin rise (bed expansion) substantially during backwash.

    If that is a 10 inch diameter tank for the KL, I expect you won't see that through the KL tank.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2020
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  4. nasonjo

    nasonjo New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Location:
    Maine
    My water system is in the basement and everything is upstairs. I am guessing my hose bib would work as that is tied into the system after the pressure tank. This would do the trick, right?

    I cant see it backwash even with light in the dark unfortunately.

    If I take it apart and save the media can i reuse it and the gravel if its not clumped up? The media is 7 years old.
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    When you open a valve upstairs, there is a fair amount of pipe higher than the cover you are getting ready to open. So water will come out. No laundry tap that you could use? If the washing machine is in the basement, tell that to fill up, and that would drain water.

    If nothing low except the drain on the WH, you could maybe use that (with the valve to the WH open). If the valve sits higher than the WH, that should not need you to drain much water.

    You can't even see the resin or media level about 1/3 down from the bottom when not backwashing? You have a friend who likes bright flashlights, don't you? Maybe borrow his brightest. Maybe two person job. One to look and the other to hold the flashlight against the other side of the tank.
     
  6. nasonjo

    nasonjo New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Location:
    Maine
    WH line is lowest, laundry is second. I'll drain both and just try to let the water out. I'll grab a bright flashlight tonight at the store and put it in BW and check to see if it is floating around. I have seen about every youtube video there is on repacking it so I probably shouldn't pay someone $400 to do it... don't like paying people for something I can figure out myself.
     
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    If you close the valve to the WH, you can't use the WH drain. I think the WH drain would just be if there was no good alternative. I would close the WH valve, and drain with the basement laundry cold.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2020
  8. nasonjo

    nasonjo New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Location:
    Maine
    I have to put it on backwash after, correct? Close all systems then backwash to bleed the water out of the system?
     
  9. nasonjo

    nasonjo New Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2020
    Location:
    Maine
    Nevermind.. just put it in bypass and started a backwash cycle which bled the pressure and was able to d/c. Media was complete concrete in the tank. Going to need a whole new tank.
     
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You did not have to do that, but it did not hurt to be extra-sure.

    You don't want to get the same size tank if you will continue to use that valve. If you could switch to a 9x48 tank with 1 cuft of KL, that could probably backwash sufficiently with that valve. You could reuse the same distributor tube and basket. Cut the old tube to be the same height as the top of the new tank. You would want new gravel too. Position the tube before adding gravel or KL.

    Otherwise, replace the valve too. :(

    One more thing... make sure the pump is up to producing enough water during backwash.
     
  11. Bannerman

    Bannerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2014
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    In viewing your photos, the unit shown appears that it may be a 9" diameter X 48" tank. If so, that tank is appropriate for 1 ft3 of media. KL media in a 9" tank will require between 4.4 and 6.6 gpm backwash flow. Remove the DLFC flow restrictor from the valve to verify the flow rate specified on the restrictor.
     
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