How to reconnect water heater cold water inlet
- Thread starter Artted
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Dj2
In the Trades
This flex is shot. Replace it.
You will need to cut the pipe out the wall on the other end and do some soldering. Replace the shut off valve and the nipple while you're doing it.
You will need to cut the pipe out the wall on the other end and do some soldering. Replace the shut off valve and the nipple while you're doing it.
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,613
- Reaction score
- 1,054
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
You do not have to do ANYTHING "in the wall". Just remove the flex from the valve and solder the new one in. Or cut the end of the flex 2" past the valve and install a flex that has a Sharkbite connector on it.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
A Sharkbite is maybe the easiest solution. You will need to cut off the end soldered and then, things will work if you have enough pipe length sticking out. You will need to make sure the pipe end is cleaned of burrs and sharp edges. THen, screw one end onto the WH, and push the other end onto the pipe and you're done.
ldon
New Member
I have a similar problem; if I cut off the flex copper line at the cut-off valve there will only be 7/8 inch of solid copper pipe remaining. Not sure that is enough pipe to attach a sharkbite? Any suggestions?
ldon
Find a plumber to do the soldering for you. 7/8 is too short for a 3/4 inch SharkBite.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
The alternative would be to cut off the valve, too, and then rebuild. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/...ed-flexible-water-heater-connector-ball-valve The valve end would push onto the supply pipe after you cut it off, and the other end would screw onto the water heater.
ldon
New Member
Yes, I did consider doing that but the grounding clamp is in the way. I could move it back inside the wall, but if I use a sharkbite fitting would I then have broken continuity for the ground to the heater?
Last edited:
ldon
New Member
I did talk to a plumper and he will solder a copper male fitting to each line for $150. That's acceptable to me, but I have to get a homeowner's permit from the city to install the water heater and the permit does not allow me to get help from anyone. I must do all of the work myself if I use a homeowner's permit.
ldon
New Member
Trying to insert pictures, but not sure how to do that.
Last edited by a moderator:
Ask a neighbor or two for soldering advice if you will solder.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
If you are going to solder then install male adapter and use a nut x nut flex hose then you will never have solder again.
Secondly to repair a leak does not require a permit. And if it did just dont turn yourself in come on. That would be like calling the cops on yourself for removing a tag on a pillow!
Secondly to repair a leak does not require a permit. And if it did just dont turn yourself in come on. That would be like calling the cops on yourself for removing a tag on a pillow!
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
To insert a picture, use the Upload a File button first before you hit Post Reply. You can't cut and paste...
Personally, if I were doing it and didn't have soldering tools or experience, I'd probably just use the Sharkbite part. You'll need about 1" of bare, clean pipe to push on the Sharkbite to the pipe after cutting off the valve. Now, if you do have a torch, you could unsolder the existing valve, while the lead is still molten, wipe it off quickly with a cotton cloth (nothing synthetic that would melt!), and maybe smooth it a bit with some emery cloth, and slide the Sharkbite on. No real soldering experience needed. The Sharkbite won't go on much (if at all) further than the socket of the valve.
Personally, if I were doing it and didn't have soldering tools or experience, I'd probably just use the Sharkbite part. You'll need about 1" of bare, clean pipe to push on the Sharkbite to the pipe after cutting off the valve. Now, if you do have a torch, you could unsolder the existing valve, while the lead is still molten, wipe it off quickly with a cotton cloth (nothing synthetic that would melt!), and maybe smooth it a bit with some emery cloth, and slide the Sharkbite on. No real soldering experience needed. The Sharkbite won't go on much (if at all) further than the socket of the valve.
Similar threads
