How to reconnect water heater cold water inlet

Discussion in 'Water Heater Forum, Tanks' started by Artted, Jul 28, 2019.

  1. Artted

    Artted New Member

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    Jul 28, 2019
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    What do I need to reconnect the child water inlet on my water heater without soldering?

    20190727_190637.jpg
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    You replace the flex line. Let's see the other end of the flex line.
     
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  4. Artted

    Artted New Member

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    The other end is soldered on. I was hoping to just put a new connector on the end that is pictured.
     
  5. dj2

    dj2 In the Trades

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    California
    This flex is shot. Replace it.
    You will need to cut the pipe out the wall on the other end and do some soldering. Replace the shut off valve and the nipple while you're doing it.
     
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  6. hj

    hj Master Plumber

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    You do not have to do ANYTHING "in the wall". Just remove the flex from the valve and solder the new one in. Or cut the end of the flex 2" past the valve and install a flex that has a Sharkbite connector on it.
     
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  7. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    A Sharkbite is maybe the easiest solution. You will need to cut off the end soldered and then, things will work if you have enough pipe length sticking out. You will need to make sure the pipe end is cleaned of burrs and sharp edges. THen, screw one end onto the WH, and push the other end onto the pipe and you're done.
     
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  8. rmgolob

    rmgolob Member

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    Shark Bites are 'da bomb!
     
  9. ldon

    ldon New Member

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    greenville texas
    I have a similar problem; if I cut off the flex copper line at the cut-off valve there will only be 7/8 inch of solid copper pipe remaining. Not sure that is enough pipe to attach a sharkbite? Any suggestions?
    ldon
     
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Find a plumber to do the soldering for you. 7/8 is too short for a 3/4 inch SharkBite.
     
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  11. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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  12. ldon

    ldon New Member

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    Yes, I did consider doing that but the grounding clamp is in the way. I could move it back inside the wall, but if I use a sharkbite fitting would I then have broken continuity for the ground to the heater?
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2020
  13. ldon

    ldon New Member

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    I did talk to a plumper and he will solder a copper male fitting to each line for $150. That's acceptable to me, but I have to get a homeowner's permit from the city to install the water heater and the permit does not allow me to get help from anyone. I must do all of the work myself if I use a homeowner's permit.
     
  14. ldon

    ldon New Member

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    Trying to insert pictures, but not sure how to do that.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 6, 2020
  15. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Ask a neighbor or two for soldering advice if you will solder.
     
  16. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

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    If you are going to solder then install male adapter and use a nut x nut flex hose then you will never have solder again.
    Secondly to repair a leak does not require a permit. And if it did just dont turn yourself in come on. That would be like calling the cops on yourself for removing a tag on a pillow!
     
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  17. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    To insert a picture, use the Upload a File button first before you hit Post Reply. You can't cut and paste...

    Personally, if I were doing it and didn't have soldering tools or experience, I'd probably just use the Sharkbite part. You'll need about 1" of bare, clean pipe to push on the Sharkbite to the pipe after cutting off the valve. Now, if you do have a torch, you could unsolder the existing valve, while the lead is still molten, wipe it off quickly with a cotton cloth (nothing synthetic that would melt!), and maybe smooth it a bit with some emery cloth, and slide the Sharkbite on. No real soldering experience needed. The Sharkbite won't go on much (if at all) further than the socket of the valve.
     
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