How to install new sump pump in shallow sump

[logwolf]

I have a hole in my basement floor that is 13" deep x 11" in diameter. There is no sump pump system anywhere in the basement, so I assume that's what this hole is for.
This basement has been dry through heavy rains and piles of snow, in the six years I have lived here.
This house was built in 1998. Soil in this area is sandy.
I want to install a sump pump system to connect to the sewer line leading to the septic tank in the rear yard.
How do I calculate for the correct size pump? Should there be a liner insert for this?
I'm relocating a new water heater in the basement that will be closer to the sump.
Are there other considerations to research before installing a sump pump.
Thank you for your time.
Regards,
Larry

 

[Jadnashua]

Such a small, shallow basin would lead to problems for most any sump pumps. But, if it never got wet, why would you want to add one anyway?

It's generally not a good idea to pump ground water into a septic system and likely wouldn't be allowed into a public sewer (probably would into a storm drain, though).

The size of the pump would be based on the volume of water that needed to be pumped and the amount of head (height) it had to raise the water. Such a small basin would cause short cycling of a typical sump pump, shortening its life considerably. A typical basin is bigger in diameter and deeper, so that the accumulated water will allow the pump to run awhile rather than seconds.

If it's really sandy, if you're worried about the WH leaking, it may just get absorbed into the sand without any issues. You could test that with some large buckets...just dump them in and see how fast the water level drops, if it rises at all.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[logwolf]

Such a small, shallow basin would lead to problems for most any sump pumps. But, if it never got wet, why would you want to add one anyway?

It's generally not a good idea to pump ground water into a septic system and likely wouldn't be allowed into a public sewer (probably would into a storm drain, though).

The size of the pump would be based on the volume of water that needed to be pumped and the amount of head (height) it had to raise the water. Such a small basin would cause short cycling of a typical sump pump, shortening its life considerably. A typical basin is bigger in diameter and deeper, so that the accumulated water will allow the pump to run awhile rather than seconds.

If it's really sandy, if you're worried about the WH leaking, it may just get absorbed into the sand without any issues. You could test that with some large buckets...just dump them in and see how fast the water level drops, if it rises at all.

Thank you for the feed back. The hole I'm referring to has a cement bottom. And yes, the WH leak would be my concern. Once I open the valve out of the old WH drain, I'm certain that I'll not be able to close it again. So, as I'm writing this, it occurs to me that a transfer pump connected to a hose would help in emptying the old heater. So you're right, I don't have a major concern for significant water accumulation.
Thank you again. I sometimes just need a sounding board to see the logic behind situations.
Regards
Larry

 

[Eric Moore]

I was looking for this information and finally landed here to find it. Thanks for your contribution. I can now find my way do run the installation.