How do I drill a well casings to install a pitless?

[erkme73]

I am helping a neighbor finish the pump hardware on his newly installed well. It's a 8" steel casing. We plan on installing the adapter about 2' down (middle TN) but I haven't a clue how to drill the casing. I watched a couple of YT videos, where one guy appears to use a hole saw like you'd use to install a doorknob hole on a virgin door. Another guy used a oxy/acetylene torch. I have a torch and a plasma cutter (that'd be fun!) But don't want to jump to the nuclear option is there is an easier way to do it that I'm just not seeing...

 

[Reach4]

I wonder why a new well would be using a steel casing. I am guessing this is not for a home.

Anyway, hole saw. I am not a pro. I am thinking good bi-metal.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/best-way-to-extend-metal-casing-above-grade.80187/#post-580646

 

[Sponsor]

 

[erkme73]

interesting, I didn't realize that there were alternatives to Steel. Everything up where I live has a steel casing. And it is for residential use. The casing only goes down, I think, the first 20 feet or so.

 

[Valveman]

It is hard to cut a perfect hole with a torch. The fit is very important with a pitless adapter. Most steel casing pitless adapters are welded.

 

[Boycedrilling]

We always use a hole saw. The pitless adapter box will tell you what size hole saw to use. I prefer the Lenox brand hole saws. I figure I will get two cuts from the saw before I throw it away. Drill the pilot hole first with a regulate drill bit. Don’t rely on the hole saw’s pilot bit to drill the steel casing. Drill slowly, don’t get in a hurry. It’s only going to take 60-90 seconds anyways.

regardless of what some internet experts think, the majority of surface well casing in the United States is steel.

 

[Reach4]

interesting, I didn't realize that there were alternatives to Steel. Everything up where I live has a steel casing. And it is for residential use. The casing only goes down, I think, the first 20 feet or so.

OK. We don't have wells that are all rock for the long path.

I can see that steel would have the big advantage for driving into rock. Plus, you would not have the problems of rust in your water, because the casing is not down into the water.

I would be thinking https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-3-4-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-with-3-8-in-Arbor-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9666/202327736 if that is a 1-3/4 inch hole that you need.

 

[Boycedrilling]

As Cary mentioned another option is the weld-on casing adapter. In my area of the USA, probably 95% of pitless adapters are the brass ones installed inside the casing, for a number of reasons.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Many states require the top 20 feet or more of casing be steel, regardless of depth or formations.

 

[erkme73]

Thanks guys. Was kinda secretly hoping to use the new plasma cutter, but I'd much rather not screw it up. My welding skills are lacking at best, so brass with a drilled hole is what it will be.

 

[Reach4]

Many states require the top 20 feet or more of casing be steel, regardless of depth or formations.

Thanks.

Was kinda secretly hoping to use the new plasma cutter, but I'd much rather not screw it up. My welding skills are lacking at best, so brass with a drilled hole is what it will be.

I would order up a 5.3 ounce tube of Molykote 111. It can be used on the pitless o-rings. Use it very lightly on o-rings. That tube is a lifetime supply for you and a couple of neighbors. It is also useful any time that you install or reinstall an o-ring that is not sliding much in service. It is on the thicker side compared to release compound. Silicone release compound is good for those things too, and is better for sliding seals.

The plasma cutter does seem like more fun.