HELP! Solder nightmare - using wrong solution?
- Thread starter frodiggs
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
quote; What would be the proper thing after the right coupler?
The "proper thing" would be to quit jacking around with that piece of pipe in the wall and install a new one with a proper straight tailpiece. Everyone wants to "do it themselves", but you violated my first rule for doing so. You were supposed to stop at least a minute before you reached your level of incompetence, but you kept on going.
The "proper thing" would be to quit jacking around with that piece of pipe in the wall and install a new one with a proper straight tailpiece. Everyone wants to "do it themselves", but you violated my first rule for doing so. You were supposed to stop at least a minute before you reached your level of incompetence, but you kept on going.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
All,
Thanks for the feedback. In all things I do I want to do it right, and at this age am not afraid of doing extra work to achieve this end. I'm really grateful for everyone taking the time to help.
That being said-
Aside from my tireless efforts to solder the cheap chrome elbow to the waste pipe in the wall, all other advice was from 'experts' with at least 10 years from HD and my personal plumber. While an expert is a subjective term these days it seems they were misguided. My plumber said NJ laws now allow the boot in this scenario. While this may be a not too expensive job to hand over to some 'pro', I figured aside from the wall pipe to the elbow, the rest was within my 'competence level' as I've done a a few faucets and drain installs. Plus the plumber I used stopped by to remove the soldered trap and has since gone on vaca for a few days.
HJ - Moderator and Master Plumber - totally respect your position and expertise.
Small note, your reply below was mistakenly to Reach4 but assume it was meant for me, the OP. I was offended actually by this post at first, but figure you just loathe anyone trying but not seemingly having the expertise at the time and making a mess of things. Actually from post 14 is where is got advised from others in store etc. and just carried on from there.
I've gotten (too much misguided) advice from a number of folks in store, but this thread knows the best story with pictures. I would like to fix/replace the waste pipe in the wall ($$ factor for me now) but for now can I use a banded coupler and connect the trap to the drain w/o the flex crap as it might still be offset? Please be specific.
TIA
HJ - The "proper thing" would be to quit jacking around with that piece of pipe in the wall and install a new one with a proper straight tailpiece. Everyone wants to "do it themselves", but you violated my first rule for doing so. You were supposed to stop at least a minute before you reached your level of incompetence, but you kept on going.
Thanks for the feedback. In all things I do I want to do it right, and at this age am not afraid of doing extra work to achieve this end. I'm really grateful for everyone taking the time to help.
That being said-
Aside from my tireless efforts to solder the cheap chrome elbow to the waste pipe in the wall, all other advice was from 'experts' with at least 10 years from HD and my personal plumber. While an expert is a subjective term these days it seems they were misguided. My plumber said NJ laws now allow the boot in this scenario. While this may be a not too expensive job to hand over to some 'pro', I figured aside from the wall pipe to the elbow, the rest was within my 'competence level' as I've done a a few faucets and drain installs. Plus the plumber I used stopped by to remove the soldered trap and has since gone on vaca for a few days.
HJ - Moderator and Master Plumber - totally respect your position and expertise.
Small note, your reply below was mistakenly to Reach4 but assume it was meant for me, the OP. I was offended actually by this post at first, but figure you just loathe anyone trying but not seemingly having the expertise at the time and making a mess of things. Actually from post 14 is where is got advised from others in store etc. and just carried on from there.
I've gotten (too much misguided) advice from a number of folks in store, but this thread knows the best story with pictures. I would like to fix/replace the waste pipe in the wall ($$ factor for me now) but for now can I use a banded coupler and connect the trap to the drain w/o the flex crap as it might still be offset? Please be specific.
TIA
HJ - The "proper thing" would be to quit jacking around with that piece of pipe in the wall and install a new one with a proper straight tailpiece. Everyone wants to "do it themselves", but you violated my first rule for doing so. You were supposed to stop at least a minute before you reached your level of incompetence, but you kept on going.
Last edited:
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Sometimes you just need a Presidential Solution.
That is the best one I have seen in a while.
Keep up the nice work.
That is the best one I have seen in a while.
Keep up the nice work.
Craigpump
In the Trades
"presidential solution"......
LOL
LOL
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
The best solution is to remove the stub coming out of the wall and rebuild things from there. I never did really see a response as to what it was made out of.
If you had to, you might put a 45 coming out of the wall, and that would give you a little room to play with the angles of the trap, and use a conventional tailpiece rather than that abomination of plastic you have. If you made the stub in the wall shorter and installed a Desanko (its called different things in different places), that is designed to take the tubular pipe from the trap into it directly and seals with a compression ring just like what's holding the rest of the trap together. If you have a 1.5" trap, depending on the size drain pipe, you might need to go to a 1.25" one so the arm could slide into the fitting, though. Can't tell exactly from here.
If you had to, you might put a 45 coming out of the wall, and that would give you a little room to play with the angles of the trap, and use a conventional tailpiece rather than that abomination of plastic you have. If you made the stub in the wall shorter and installed a Desanko (its called different things in different places), that is designed to take the tubular pipe from the trap into it directly and seals with a compression ring just like what's holding the rest of the trap together. If you have a 1.5" trap, depending on the size drain pipe, you might need to go to a 1.25" one so the arm could slide into the fitting, though. Can't tell exactly from here.
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
It is a galvanized steel nipple with a rusted off thread. It WILL unscrew, but it may take some ingenuity. As for what you have there, if YOU are happy with it, that is fine. I, and many others, would not be. we would be perfectly happy if the companies that made "junk" like that went out of business.
It looks like steel. A magnet would confirm that.
You could probably unscrew the remainder of that pipe/nipple, and screw in the piece that you need. There is something called an "internal pipe wrench" AKA pipe nipple extractor. I think the 1-1/4 size would be what you would want, but you would want to re-check the internal measurement. Never used one myself.
It would be nice if you could rent the tool, but you could buy it, use it, and then put it back up for sale.
You could probably unscrew the remainder of that pipe/nipple, and screw in the piece that you need. There is something called an "internal pipe wrench" AKA pipe nipple extractor. I think the 1-1/4 size would be what you would want, but you would want to re-check the internal measurement. Never used one myself.
It would be nice if you could rent the tool, but you could buy it, use it, and then put it back up for sale.
Tried the magnet on the pipe in the wall, hard to tell i only have a tiny bit of surface to check with the boot on and there's metal screws nearby.
I'm NOT happy with the current setup based on your feedback, esp. the possible buildup from the flex tube and my small leak up top.
I think I'll need to approach this into two phases. one being a cleanup of the current a phase 2 removing the wall from the pipe.
For now I see the banded coupling as an option to replace the boot, remind me how I might replace the flex?
Thanks
I'm NOT happy with the current setup based on your feedback, esp. the possible buildup from the flex tube and my small leak up top.
I think I'll need to approach this into two phases. one being a cleanup of the current a phase 2 removing the wall from the pipe.
For now I see the banded coupling as an option to replace the boot, remind me how I might replace the flex?
Thanks
hj
Master Plumber
- Messages
- 33,603
- Reaction score
- 1,042
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cave Creek, Arizona
- Website
- www.terrylove.com
quote;all other advice was from 'experts' with at least 10 years from HD and my personal plumber.
IF they were "experts" they would NOT be working from HD at almost minimum wage, but would be working as "plumbers" and making a living.
IF they were "experts" they would NOT be working from HD at almost minimum wage, but would be working as "plumbers" and making a living.
Bill Shack
30years plumbing 10years plumbing inspector
You did not use plumbers putty. take the drain apart and put putty under the sink above the gasket. putty under the gasket and on the tailpeice. before the pop up.
Similar threads
