Help me program my Fleck 2510 Manual for my Catalytic Carbon Tank

[Charlie Bosco]

Not 100% sure how to reprogram the pins on my Timer. I just know the pins =2min each.. Since its programmed to BW at 4am, I fired off a manual backwash today to watch it.

BW for 10 minutes and then seemed like a short delay and then BW again for another 10?

Here is a photo of my pins..

 

[Bannerman]

The group of pins beginning at 0 minutes determine the Backwash length. 5 pins = 10 minutes BW
The group of holes after the BW pins and before the 2nd set of pins determines the Brine & Rinse time. 2 holes = 4 minutes Rinse.
The 2nd group of pins determines the length for Rapid Rinse. 5 pins = 10 minutes RR
The next set of holes determines the Brine Fill duration. As your carbon filter will not utilize BF, nothing will happen but the cycle will continue running until the final two pins which tell the controller the cycle has completed.

See pg 7 of 2510 Control Valve Service Manual: https://www.apswater.com/article.asp?id=363&title=Fleck+Manuals+-+Water+Softeners+-+Control+Heads+-+Set+Up+and+Repair+Instructions

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charlie Bosco]

The group of pins beginning at 0 minutes determine the Backwash length. 5 pins = 10 minutes BW
The group of holes after the BW pins and before the 2nd set of pins determines the Brine & Rinse time. 2 holes = 4 minutes Rinse.
The 2nd group of pins determines the length for Rapid Rinse. 5 pins = 10 minutes RR
The next set of holes determines the Brine Fill duration. As your carbon filter will not utilize BF, nothing will happen but the cycle will continue running until the final two pins which tell the controller the cycle has completed.

See pg 7 of 2510 Control Valve Service Manual: https://www.apswater.com/article.asp?id=363&title=Fleck+Manuals+-+Water+Softeners+-+Control+Heads+-+Set+Up+and+Repair+Instructions

So it appears I certainly don't need a 10 minute rapid rinse. I should remove 4 pins? The big question is what 4 do I pull? And do I leave the spaces where they are?

Also my head has no brine draw functionality. Should I pull those pins? Or does something still have to trigger each mode?

 

[Water Pro]

So it appears I certainly don't need a 10 minute rapid rinse. I should remove 4 pins? The big question is what 4 do I pull? And do I leave the spaces where they are?

Also my head has no brine draw functionality. Should I pull those pins? Or does something still have to trigger each mode?

The rapid rinse works to re-compact the carbon so it's needed. you could, however, shorten it to 6 minutes. I would also increase the backwash time by 2 minutes. was this control head originally utilized on a softener?

 

[ditttohead]

BW 10 minutes is usually more than adequate for carbon or clinoptilolite. Iron reduction medias vary greatly with the media. Pyrolox and Filox use shorter but much stronger backwashes, Katalox, Birm etc will benefit from a longer backwash. The variables are infinite so no exact number is correct.

The first set of pins is the backwash, the gap is the brine draw or "rest" cycle.. a fancy name for "this is a mechanical valve, keep it simple". The secons set of pins is the raid rinse. This function is really misunderstood. We were all trained that this is to repack the bed. This is patially true but the real function of the rapid rinse is to expel the water from the tank that is not well filters eg: the backwash water. If you skipped the RR cycle, the water in the bottom of the tank would basically be untreated water. The next gap is the "turn off rapid rinse... or brine fill on a softener. The next set op pins is "turn off brine fill" if it were a softener. The timer then continues around to the very end where the inner microswitch will cycle the valve to the "true home" position. Leave it as is, maybe shorten the RR cycle to 4-6 minutes, and all is fine. The rest of the gaps and pins are not critical.

5 pins, 2 holes, 4 pins, 2 holes, 2 pins....

 

[Charlie Bosco]

BW 10 minutes is usually more than adquate for carbon or clinoptilolite. Iron reduction medias vary greatly with the media. Pyrolox and Filox use shorter but much stronger backwashes, Katalox, Birm etc will benefit form a longer backwash. The variables are infinite so no exact number is correct.

The first set of pins is the backwash, the gap is the brine draw or "rest" cycle.. a fancy name for "this is a mechanical valve, keep it simple". The secons set of pins is the raid rinse. This function is really misunderstood. We were all trained that this is to repack the bed. This is patially true but the real function of the rapid rinse is to expel the water from the tank that is not well filters eg: the backwash water. If you skipped the RR cycle, the water in the bottom of the tank would basically be untreated water. The next gap is the "turn off rapid rinse... or brine fill on a softener. The next set op pins is "turn off brine fill" if it were a softener. The timer then continues around to the very end where the inner microswitch will cycle the valve to the "true home" position. Leave it as is, maybe shorten the RR cycle to 4-6 minutes, and all is fine. The rest of the gaps and pins are not critical.

5 pins, 2 holes, 4 pins, 2 holes, 2 pins....

Thanks for the explanation.. Seems they just use a 4minute "Rest" so just keep a 2 pin space between each cycle?

So assuming that I have approximately 18 gallons in a 10x54.. and flushing at 7GPM. The Rapid Rinse should be 2.57 minutes.. Since I can only control 2 minutes at a time. I would leave 2 pins for a 4 min RR? Just thinking of shortening the RR cycle to not use up so much of my freshly Loaded Air Pocket from the KL Tank that does a nightly BW. I really want to ensure I get all traces of sulfur so I set the Carbon tank to BW every other night.

I also changed my KL settings too. I watched a backwash yesterday and it was some cloudy water with some debris.. even after a nightly BW. I actually forced 3 consecutive Backwashes before I allowed it to finish the complete cycle.
Also I set the BW from 10 min to 12 min, left Air draw at 40min and set the rapid rinse from 1 Minute to 2 minutes. Based on the fact I have an OPEN DLFC and flows about 12GPM 2 minutes should more than clear the 18 gallon tank.

Or am I getting too anal retentive here?

 

[Bannerman]

Just thinking of shortening the RR cycle to not use up so much of my freshly Loaded Air Pocket from the KL Tank that does a nightly BW.

Since you are concerned with the carbon tank backwash cycle consuming air from the KL/AIO filter, you could change the time settings so the carbon tank backwash cycle will always occur at an earlier time than the KL tank's backwash cycle. (ie: Carbon BW = 2am, KL BW = 4am)

A RR cycle should not be programmed in an AIO filter to prevent the air pocket from being lost to drain.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for the explanation.. Seems they just use a 4minute "Rest" so just keep a 2 pin space between each cycle?

I would watch the drain during the "rest". I am curious if they don't run some water through during that period.

 

[ditttohead]

RR does not make you lose any air. The reason it can typically be skipped is because the air draw cycle is a downflow cycle, negating the need to rinse the "upflow" backwash water from the tank.

 

[Bannerman]

RR does not make you lose any air. The reason it can typically be skipped is because the air draw cycle is a downflow cycle, negating the need to rinse the "upflow" backwash water from the tank.

Perhaps I misinterpreted your comment from a previous thread which advised against RR for an AIO system.

Since Charlie Bosco is concerned the Carbon tank's 7 GPM backwash/RR will consume the AIO's air pocket, I anticipated the KL/AIO 12 GPM RR will deplete the air pocket even more so.

 

[ditttohead]

RR does not deplete the air pocket. RR is the same as "service" water. when the system goes into RR, it is the same as going into service basically. On a mechanical valve we have to cycle it past these points so no big deal. On digital valves we can skip the RR cycle, either way you notice a difference.