Help Installing a Watts 500800 Hot Water Recirculating System

Discussion in 'Water Heater Forum, Tanks' started by ivonesh, Mar 29, 2020.

  1. ivonesh

    ivonesh New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2020
    Location:
    Chicago Suburbs
    Hey everyone!

    I'd like to install a Watts 50800 pump due to the long delay in getting hot water to our upstairs shower. It's the furthest point from the hot water heater in the basement which is two floors below. I have not done the ROI, but I know it'll happen at some point as we are wasting lots of water for it to get even close to warm enough to get in the shower.

    With that said, I'm handy, but have not done a lot of plumbing work. I think I've got the install figured out, but need a sanity check.

    My assumptions are:
    1. Turn off the cold water in, right side of pic.
    2. Open a tap and drain the hot, leave tap open.
    3. Cut the copper, near the union, I don't have the pump yet, so I don't know exactly how tall it will be. Can dry fit once it arrives.
    4. Unscrew the connection to the hot water outlet at the large nut.
    5. Attach pump directly to the hot water out. If has a gasket, no tape needed. If no gasket, use teflon tape.
    5a. I've heard that newer hot water heaters have flaps/nipples/floats to keep the water in place. I've read some people removing the rubber flaps, not sure if necessary? I've also heard some are built-in and non-removable and tied to other components in the tank. I would think since the pump is pulling water from the tank, the flaps would open to allow water out, as intended. I see no need to remove them? Our water heater is a NG 50 Gallong Rheem XG50T06EC38U0. Mfr. date 2014.
    5. Pump has a 3/4" male NPT outlet. Purchase a 3/4" copper FNTP to sweat connection (Chicago(land) code says all plumbing needs to be rigid connections).
    6. Teflon tape the outlet of the pump if no gasket, no tape needed if gasket, screw and wrench on copper adapter, sweat connection to existing pipe.
    7. Install the under-counter component
    8. Turn water heater back on, open cold line on top of water heater, run water without pump turned on to fill all lines.
    9. Once water runs, close tap used in Step 2.
    10. Plug in / turn on pump
    11. Program pump for "working hours" or leave running 24/7.


    What am I missing and where did I go wrong?

    Thank you for looking over my list.

    Ian


    IMG_8945.JPG Screen Shot 2020-03-29 at 12.40.37 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2020-03-29 at 12.54.30 copy.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
  2. fitter30

    fitter30 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2020
    Occupation:
    Retired service tech
    Location:
    Peace valley missouri
    Turn the heater off & drain down the hot water because there isn't a shut at heater on the hot water. Might want to consider a screwed brass union on the outlet of pump for easy install or flue has to be removed to spin the pump.
     
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