Fisher Model 1400, Searching for 3/8 COMP x 3/8 FIP faucet supply hose (24" long)

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mliu

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It seems that most faucet supply hoses end in 1/2 FIP but I need 3/8 FIP for a Fisher Water Station (the inlet is 3/8 male NPS). The hoses I've found by searching online are only 20" long (max) and I'm not even sure if they're correct because they are labeled "3/8 FIP COMP X 3/8 FIP COMP" whatever that means. I'm looking for a true stainless steel braided supply hose (not the gray plastic braid).

Can anyone point me to a product?

fisher-1400-water-station.jpg
 
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wwhitney

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"FIP compression" may mean "female compression" which means an end that attaches to a compression fitting in lieu of the compression nut.

How about just using a 1/2" MIP x 3/8" FIP bushing?

Cheers, Wayne
 

mliu

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"FIP compression" may mean "female compression" which means an end that attaches to a compression fitting in lieu of the compression nut.
Technically, FIP means "Female Iron Pipe" which means it has either NPT or NPS threads. When FIP is used in conjunction with a supply hose, it generally means it is a female threaded connection with a washer that will mate to a male NPS fixture inlet. So FIP COMP makes no sense.

How about just using a 1/2" MIP x 3/8" FIP bushing?
Since the fixture inlet is 3/8 NPS, then a bushing with NPT threads won't seal. The adapter would have to have a washer (like a supply hose has) to seal against the end of the inlet.
 

wwhitney

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What's the model number? The one Fisher Washer Station I looked at says it has a 3/8" NPT inlet for water, and a 3/4" NPS outlet for the drain.

Cheers, Wayne
 

mliu

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What's the model number? The one Fisher Washer Station I looked at says it has a 3/8" NPT inlet for water, and a 3/4" NPS outlet for the drain.
It is a Fisher Model 1400 Water Station. And the spec sheet does indeed state that it has a 3/8" NPT MALE INLET. But that's a typo. I'm holding the part in my hand and the threads are certainly 3/8" NPS.

In fact, looking at the drawing on the spec sheet, it cannot possibly be NPT. If it were, there's no way the conical base (inside the bowl) and the lock nut (below the bowl) could be threaded onto the 2-1/2" threaded lower part of the riser pipe that makes up the inlet.

fisher-1400-water-station-spec.jpg
 

wwhitney

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Hmm, that's a stumper. I'm not finding anything with a 3/8" FIP end.

Have you asked the manufacturer what they intend as far as connecting to their product? The installation instructions are unhelpful. Perhaps in practice male NPS threads into female NPT threads can seal properly?

One idea I had was to find a 3/8" FIP x 1/4" NPT (male or female) lead free fitting where the construction includes a flat area on the 3/8" FIP side that could hold a washer (hence the reduced size on the other end), and find the proper washer to seal to the end of your 3/8" male NPS thread inside the fitting. Then with a proper NPT end, you can adapt to something that supply lines can connect to.

Cheers, Wayne
 

mliu

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Google custom 3/8 stainless hose companies. Hose companies can make any length and fittings.

I believe those companies manufacture hoses for industrial & vehicular purposes. I don't know if any can make NSF-certified supply hoses for potable water supplies.

And really, I shouldn't have to go with a custom-made hose. This Fisher water station can't be the only product on the market with a 3/8" NPS inlet. Surely there must be off-the-shelf supply hoses for these products.
 

mliu

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Have you tried a standard 1/2 FIP on that thread? Every faucet I've installed has used 1/2"
I've measured it with calipers to confirm that it is 3/8" MIP. I've also compared it against a known 1/2" NPT nipple.
 

wwhitney

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Sorry to belabor this, but are you sure that the threads at the end aren't tapered? That's what the drawing in the installation manual looks like, long straight threads, with the final several threads tapered.

If they are straight to the end, perhaps they are supposed to be tapered at the end, and you got a defective product?

Cheers, Wayne
 
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mliu

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Sorry to belabor this, but are you sure that the threads at the end aren't tapered? That's what the drawing in the installation manual looks like, long straight threads, with the final several threads tapered.
I agree that they are drawn that way in the manual. But they are definitely straight threads. They measure 81/128" across the thread crests at the bottom and 81/128" across the thread crests at the top. And the locknut has the same fit when threaded on the riser from bottom to top.

If they straight to the end, perhaps they are supposed to be tapered at the end, and you got a defective product?
I suppose that's possible.
 

wwhitney

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Let us know what the manufacturer has to say about all this, now we're curious.

Cheers, Wayne
 

mliu

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Let us know what the manufacturer has to say about all this, now we're curious.
I'm on the phone with a Fisher customer service rep now. I asked to speak to a technical rep, but it seems she wants to field my question herself, even though she doesn't appear to understand pipe threads. :sigh:
 

mliu

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For the record, I purchased a lot of Fisher products for this restaurant thinking that Fisher was a top-level supplier of commercial plumbing equipment for the foodservice industry. I've discovered that their documentation is terrible and now I've learned that their customer service is even worse. They have NO technical support department! And they refused to let me talk to one of their product engineers. So on the phone, I'm having to relay all the technical issues of this product and another Fisher product to their customer service reps who are not technically-trained and they then relay that to the engineering dept. Then they try to relay the answer back to me, etc, etc. Absolute nonsense! This is the first manufacturer I've ever encountered that offers zero tech support.

I will never again buy another Fisher product and wish I could return all the thousands of dollars of Fisher products I've already purchased. :mad:
 

wwhitney

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The problem is that the 3/8 NPS threads of the riser inlet won't make a watertight seal with the 3/8 NPT threads in the bushing.
Is that based on theory, or on having tried it and having it leak? Because while I agree 3/8" NPT male into 3/8" NPT female will seal better, 3/8" NPS male into 3/8" NPT female may still seal. If you are able to get it started and it doesn't bottom out, it should still be an interference fit.

And if you are able to get it started and it doesn't bottom out, I would think that would mean you have the option to run a 3/8" NPT die onto the 3/8" NPS threads and taper the end yourself (assuming the wall thickness suffices). I'm not clear on the relative diameters of NPS vs various the diameter at various depths of the NPT taper.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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