Electric Water Heater Issues

Discussion in 'Water Heater Forum, Tanks' started by Modrob, Sep 7, 2021.

  1. Modrob

    Modrob Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2020
    Location:
    Lindside, WV
    Plus...I’m still learning all the little ins and outs of the plumbing system here—lots of “odd” ways of doing things to me, so I’m learning as I go on thinking like the late husband-installer did. After all, this place is spread out in a lot of square footage now, having started only as a single-wide trailer, and being added-on to over about 20 years or so. He had tried to explain some things as he realized his time was short but his memory gave out too...
     
  2. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Location:
    92346
    normally a "second PRV for added security" would be total waste I've never seen 2 installed for that reason.
    but a 500 foot run "up hill" who knows how many feet isn't normal either , so I guess you could run 1oo psi and then drop down to 50 or so at the house.
    What ever the case the existing PRV is junk needing service or replacement. if that didn't happen then the second one in the house is doing all the work and the other one is doing nothing or little as we know its bad.
     
  3. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Yes. Set it to the pressure the PRV delivers when you run water at a very slow trickle.

    Tire pump. The air precharge is always measured and changed when the water pressure is zero.

    Under normal conditions, the expansion tank is empty of water. Knock on the side of the empty tank, and remember that sound. If that tank ever gets full of water, the tank has probably failed.
     
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    The distance from the road to the house can make a difference for two reasons:
    - water running through a pipe has some friction, so when water is flowing, depending on the volume, speed, and diameter of the pipe will all affect what pressure losses you may have
    - water pressure will change with elevation at about 0.43#/foot of elevation change. So, if you're actually downhill a bit, that water coming down the hill will have more pressure at your outlet simply because of gravity. Conversely, if it has to go up to your house, the pressure will drop accordingly (so it wouldn't be uncommon to have different pressures at the supply by the road and at the house). To ensure water gets to all of the homes up and over hills, the utility may need some fairly high pressures, and a PRV is then required per code (must be >=80psi in the home).

    A PRV will have a maximum range over which it can work. If you have REALLY high pressure, depending on the PRV you select, you MIGHT need two in series to drop the pressure sequentially to a safe value, otherwise, having a secondary one isn't really much of a benefit. Exceed the range of one, and you may cause it to fail. Most people won't have that issue as their pressure isn't that high.

    An ET won't last forever - eventually, the bladder will leak. They don't hold their pressure forever, either, so you should probably check it maybe annually and top it off if necessary. FWIW, the cap, if it has a good gasket in it, is the better seal than the Schrader valve in the tank. IOW, don't omit the cap and make sure it's tight.

    A PRV creates a closed system. That means that when expansion occurs, it needs a place to go or it will leak out the weakest location. In a well maintained system without leaks, that generally (at least should be) is the safety T&P valve on the WH, but it could just as easily leak from a worn valve. Common ones are toilet fill valves, but any valve with a leak under high pressure can potentially relieve it before the T&P valve opens (which SHOULD be at 150psi...your gauge may not be well calibrated, or the valve might be a little weak).

    To comply with federal guidelines, if your utility doesn't already have a check valve on your supply, they may be installing them, so that could then make your system closed, when it didn't beforehand, and require an ET.
     
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