DWV Modular System Replacement Idea Stemming From Overflowing Laundry Drain Standpipe

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liveanddiyinla

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tldr: Would connecting all the DWV drain branches to the home main drain line with heavy duty four strap no-hub couplings(like shown in attached photo) make the DWV system more resistant to damage from earthquake movement?

Friends, we changed to a bigger front load clothes washer and been having an overflowing drain standpipe on and off. The water softener also drains to this laundry drain standpipe, and the salty rinse water can’t be helping. Resorted to some temporary solutions, but want to ask for some feedback.

I have 2” and 3” metal pipes in the crawl(and I mean, crawl) space. Can anyone identify the type of pipe material from the pictures? If I’m not mistaken, they look like cast iron fittings on galvanized pipes. Are these worth keeping if they are not problematic or will they become problematic?

I’m in Southern California, an earthquake prone area. Initially, I was thinking to only replace about 10ft of laundry drain branch with 2” ABS and use a no-hub coupling to connect to the existing metal drain pipe near the wye. But it got me thinking:

If I replaced all the DWV pipes with ABS, would connecting all the new branches with heavy duty four strap no hubs make the DWV system more resistant to damage from earthquake movement? And easier just to remove and replace branches as necessary? It seems like some commercial DWV is done this way, though it’s also not in a crawlspace.
 

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Jeff H Young

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youve got a mix of cast iron and then the small branches adapt to what we called durham screwed pipe fittings and gal pipe my opinion the galvie rots out worse than cast iron.
So yea its pretty old well I wouldnt rush into it nor nessesarily wait till everything goes to hell but you could unsuprisingly get many years and minimal to no issues . if you have renovations planned above where the verticle pipes are that would be a good time to adress some of the work. Id run abs I dont think Id plumb it any differant than Ive been doing . we cut out all the old pipe as far as we can and replace by joining with proper cast iron to plastic bands the heavy duty 80 inch pound clamps with 4 bands pictured I belive are for joining cast iron to cast iron.
I like cast iron but Id do it all in abs way cheaper unles you have 2 stories above where noise is a issue
 

liveanddiyinla

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youve got a mix of cast iron and then the small branches adapt to what we called durham screwed pipe fittings and gal pipe my opinion the galvie rots out worse than cast iron.
So yea its pretty old well I wouldnt rush into it nor nessesarily wait till everything goes to hell but you could unsuprisingly get many years and minimal to no issues . if you have renovations planned above where the verticle pipes are that would be a good time to adress some of the work. Id run abs I dont think Id plumb it any differant than Ive been doing . we cut out all the old pipe as far as we can and replace by joining with proper cast iron to plastic bands the heavy duty 80 inch pound clamps with 4 bands pictured I belive are for joining cast iron to cast iron.
I like cast iron but Id do it all in abs way cheaper unles you have 2 stories above where noise is a issue
Thanks for the knowledgeable reply! I like those threaded Durham fittings but can imagine that they have less room for error.

Will a 2” ABS branch be enough for the laundry or should I go 2”-3” coupling right after the fitting at the wall and connect to 3” ABS branch? Is there a clean way to make a removable plate(plywood?) to cover the no-hub on the metal vent or is it pretty safe to drywall that back up?

My elbows are pretty raw from the other day, so I’ll probably get to it on the weekend.:)
 

Breplum

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We put down 6mil visqueen plastic sheet in crawlspace AND I recommend large sheets of appliance pkg corrugated boxboard to make the work easier on the body.
2” ABS should be fine for any drain system.
I’ve been plumbing 50 years in earthquake country and never seen damage…but we love the husky 4-band if we want heavy duty connections…yet the two band are fine for any underfloor work. There are transition fittings to go from 3” cast iron to plastic. Plastic pipe should have solid hangers every 4’, not strap.
We always recommend hiring a local pro.
 

liveanddiyinla

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We put down 6mil visqueen plastic sheet in crawlspace AND I recommend large sheets of appliance pkg corrugated boxboard to make the work easier on the body.
2” ABS should be fine for any drain system.
I’ve been plumbing 50 years in earthquake country and never seen damage…but we love the husky 4-band if we want heavy duty connections…yet the two band are fine for any underfloor work. There are transition fittings to go from 3” cast iron to plastic. Plastic pipe should have solid hangers every 4’, not strap.
We always recommend hiring a local pro.
Thanks, points well taken! I’m planning on using those rubber dipped galvanized hanging irons and will stick with the 2” for the branches that are going to be replaced,
 

Jeff H Young

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sure 2 inch is good for laundry . if you arent opening wall yet then put your band below the floor if you open the wall partly we often run plastic up to about flood level or to the vent even if its low and connect to the galvinized vents often those vents are in darn near perfect shape.
husky bands generally arent for cast iron to plastic. I think fernco makes a expensive multi size coupling with 4 bands personally I wouldnt seek them out some people use regular no hub bands on 2 or 1 1/2 inch plastic its not legal as far as I know. I generaly use cp 200 or 150 mission brand or a fernco equivilant .
Im sure you have some real good plumbing contractors there finding right guy is key
 

Tuttles Revenge

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In my experience the horizontal galvanized steel drains are big problems. They are prone to clogging and often rust out along the bottom. Durham fittings are Terrible. They're all very short radius and again, prone to clogging but due to their short radius, hard to get snakes through them. I always recommend that at the very least, the horizontal steel drains be replaced. And unless the cast iron is visibly showing signs of damage, we typically leave it for the next 100yrs of service.
 

Jeff H Young

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galvie not 200 year stuff LOL agree its not the greatest never been impressed as drainage But if you arent working on the house and it is draining well unless you are looking for a project I might leave it . just change out a line like laundry back to the cast iron
 

liveanddiyinla

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I appreciate the food for thought and am glad to have waited awhile. Reading more of your suggestions, I’m thinking to do the following.

I can’t band it below the floor and the wall fittings seem like cast iron for the laundry and are in decent shape.

To avoid having to do drywall work just for this, what if I leave the fittings already placed in the walls and cut the galvanized branch in the crawlspace close to the wall fitting, leaving just a few inches to attach a metal to plastic band?

First, I need to check the existing cleanout tee size, to see if I can run the outer short horizontal line and trap to that. If so, I’ll move the cleanout to the straight section of the wye below, which is the setup that I was planning with the new abs fittings.

I keep thinking that I should use a 2”-3” coupling and run 3” abs on the laundry branch so that I can run two clothes washer. My concern is that the 2” sections will bottleneck a bit. I’ve been doing work in the yard, attic, and crawlspace, and would like to separate my working clothes with muck and fiberglass from the rest of the finery.

Do you pros dry fit and run the water to test flow before cementing everything together or is that too messy and unworkman-like?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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To avoid having to do drywall work just for this, what if I leave the fittings already placed in the walls and cut the galvanized branch in the crawlspace close to the wall fitting, leaving just a few inches to attach a metal to plastic band?
I find that most vertical galvanized is fine to use. Just the horizontal gets trashed.
First, I need to check the existing cleanout tee size, to see if I can run the outer short horizontal line and trap to that. If so, I’ll move the cleanout to the straight section of the wye below, which is the setup that I was planning with the new abs fittings.
If it eliminates galvanized and simplifies your work that sounds good.
keep thinking that I should use a 2”-3” coupling and run 3” abs on the laundry branch so that I can run two clothes washer. My concern is that the 2” sections will bottleneck a bit. I’ve been doing work in the yard, attic, and crawlspace, and would like to separate my working clothes with muck and fiberglass from the rest of the finery.
2" is adequately sized for 2 clothes washers.. But, 3" is better if you can do it easily enough.
Do you pros dry fit and run the water to test flow before cementing everything together or is that too messy and unworkman-like?
I can't speak for anyone else but dry fits are something we generally avoid. With experience comes confidence. There are times when I need to temporarily place a pipe in a fitting in order to measure a height difference from fitting to fitting. Dry fits, especially in PVC will not always socket fully.. so you end up with shorter distances from what you dry fit.. if that makes sense.
 

Jeff H Young

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agree at the very least the horrizontal. but if not a carazy amount of work and the walls are open all that gal and tapped santees get trashed for abs a high dollar multifloor would be new cast iron above living areas (if budget allows )or ABS
 
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