DIY Trauma - Drywall doesn't line up with tub flange

[MMH]

Hi all.

I've been lurking for a while now and have seen some excellent advice. I'm hoping for some more experienced insight on this situation that's put a hold on our DIY renovation of our bathroom.

First time bathroom renovaters. The tub is set in place, drains line up, mortar bed beneath, and attached to studs. Started putting up the drywall and discovered that....it doesn't line up on the left and right sides with the flange, for some reason.....

Left side has the plumbing. In the picture, you can see that the drywall overhangs the flange. Based on other things I've seen in these threads, that's fine - I can replace that piece of drywall with one that runs down to the tub deck. Back of the tub is basically in line with the flange and rests on it.

Right side is where the real problem seems to be. Currently, the flange is well in front of the drywall. The drywall is in line with the rest of the wall. That wall runs to the door and the door trim is tight in the corner.

Is the easiest solution to build out the right hand wall from alcove to door enough to be even with the tub flange? The original plan was to tile halfway up the wall and then to the ceiling in the tub alcove.

Thanks for any ideas or feedback.

 

[ImOld]

My own note. It should be illegal to put any kind of drywall in a bathroom. Purple stuff is a scam. The magic word when you have to accomodate a small width; shim. Or, "build out".

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

If that is a tub/shower, throw that drywall stuff out. Even if it's a tub only, it's probably a good idea.

The only time drywall can be used in a tub/shower is if you cover it with one of the two (and only two) waterproof sheet membranes that have passed plumbing certification tests (Kerdi and Hydroban sheet). Any other material over drywall does not meet the building codes for what's available in the USA.

Can't tell easily if the boards outer edge would be set back from the tub or stick out from it. Sometimes, you can just terminate it slightly above the tiling flange if when you put the tile on, it won't need to be canted out and can hang over the flange. As long as the tile will be supported by more than half (most any tile you'd use), that will work.

So, your choices are tear the stuff out and shim if necessary, put regular drywall in and cover it with one of the tested, approved waterproof membranes (none of the paint on ones are approved for this over drywall), or, replace the existing stuff on the walls with something like KerdiBoard or Wedi, or some other similar, foam core, waterproof, tileable panel. On those, it's easy to notch the stuff to fit over the flange if needed, or, the same depth thing would apply if you were using drywall and covering it, or cement board. With cement board, you'd need to either put a moisture barrier behind it, or waterproofing over it.

Neither tile nor grout is waterproof. Moisture will get behind it. Even cement board. But, cement board won't turn to mush if it's wetted.

 

[Kreemoweet]

Drywall, of any type, has no place in a wet environment, bogus manufacturer claims notwithstanding. And it should certainly not be overhanging, or even touching, a bathtub rim
even if it has had an adequte waterproofing treatment applied, as mentioned above. It should ideally be flush with the rim, with a small gap. You make that happen by using
"drywall shims" judiciously, and by careful measurement. The tile would then extend a short distance and overhang the rim.