I have a water heater that has the anode incorporated with the hot water heater outlet. Apparently, this KA-90 alloy anode is good enough to support the 12 year standard tank warranty that was included with the heater by the manufacturer at no extra charge.
While it shipped with plastic lined hot and cold nipples, I went ahead and installed dielectric unions anyway, along with corrugated stainless steel flex lines. The former wasn't necessary, the latter was required in my jurisdiction. So now I have three dielectric separators, and several points of entry for service.
Still, even with all those easy options to open the hot water outlet line already installed, I wasn't too enthused about regularly loosening and tightening threaded connections, so I moved the T&P relief valve from the top of the tank (as shipped) over to the side of the tank (in the plugged location provided by the manufacturer for the optional relocation of the T&P relief valve).
Now, with an open port on top of the tank, I purchased a second KA-90 anode rod, in a length appropriately long enough for the tall tank, and threaded it into where the T&P relief valve used to be. I did this prior to installing the water heater in it's designated location, so that the solid straight anode rod could be inserted without any ceiling or flue interference.
If one KA-90 rod is good enough for the manufacturer to roll the dice on a 12 year warranty, it is hoped that two KA-90 rods (same material chosen so as to have the same nobility of metal, to prevent any differences in potential between anode rods) will offer double the sacrificial material to protect the tank.
When I do go to inspect the anode rod in a couple of years, I will pull the anode rod I added, and leave the anode that is incorporated with the hot water outlet alone.
12 years from now, should the anode rod that I added become eaten down to the wire, it will be an easy matter to bend the wire as it is being pulled out, to accommodate the ceiling limitation. At that point, a segmented anode rod or a powered anode rod can be fitted in its place, still without having to muck with the hot water outlet.
So, if there is an additional threaded port on top of the water heater you have, consider asking Bradford White if that port can be used for an additional anode rod, and if so, be sure and ask what type of metal the current anode rod with the hot water outlet is, so that you can match the same metal with the added anode rod (unless deciding on powered anode).