Boiler water jacket, black normal?

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Joe acquiost

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I did not think much about this as I worked on the cover plate, etc. but, when I removed the tankless heater, the boiler water side was solid black.

The aquastat well and the temp/pressure gage I removed were also black on the water contact side. The interior of the boiler, water side, has a pretty even black coating. Soot black.

This did not bother me, at the time, thinking it was normal for a 20 year old (or so) unit, but now I am not sure, wondering if it indicates some problem. I worry now about a crack somewhere, but, if it has a crack, it should have shown water leakage some where, correct?

It's a Burnham V7.
 

Fitter30

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Water is black and stinks thats not unusual. Lack of boiler treatment ad if there has been system leaks causing make up water to refill system. When makeup water enters it brings oxygen with it causing corrosion. Adding treatment just pull relief valve pour some in after draining boiler down. Plumbing supply or on line heres a link
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-6...=boiler+water+treatment&qid=1597006406&sr=8-5
 

Joe acquiost

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Water is black and stinks thats not unusual. Lack of boiler treatment ad if there has been system leaks causing make up water to refill system. When makeup water enters it brings oxygen with it causing corrosion. Adding treatment just pull relief valve pour some in after draining boiler down. Plumbing supply or on line heres a link

As I thought about this more, the boiler probably had treatment "from the factory" and this black deposit may be the result of the action of the corrosion inhibitor from initial fill. The coating looks very very even and complete and does not rub off. At least not so far.

Since I have only drained the boiler, should I bother trying to add anything more? There is no easy way to add "on the fly" as might be the case for a steam boiler.
 

Sylvan

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Under normal circumstances a water boiler does not need any type of treatment A steam boiler usually needs chemicals

Draining the hot water boiler to add chemicals usually does more harm then good as every time you add fresh water your causing more oxidation

Think of a fire suppression system (Closed ) black steel lasts for decades

Unless you have lots of minerals in the water leave well enough alone
 

Joe acquiost

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Under normal circumstances a water boiler does not need any type of treatment A steam boiler usually needs chemicals

Draining the hot water boiler to add chemicals usually does more harm then good as every time you add fresh water your causing more oxidation

Think of a fire suppression system (Closed ) black steel lasts for decades

Unless you have lots of minerals in the water leave well enough alone

Had to drain it to remove tankless coil and install new cover plate and gasket. So will be filled fresh. The distribution lines are shut, so some water remains in the system.

Not sure about the minerals, this is a new well since the install that has not been tested for minerals. From the taste and reasonable suds action from hand washing, does not seem to be a serious issue. No iron stains in fixtures.

I'm inclined to just let it go as is.
 

Sylvan

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Had to drain it to remove tankless coil and install new cover plate and gasket. So will be filled fresh. The distribution lines are shut, so some water remains in the system.

Not sure about the minerals, this is a new well since the install that has not been tested for minerals. From the taste and reasonable suds action from hand washing, does not seem to be a serious issue. No iron stains in fixtures.

I'm inclined to just let it go as is.

If something is not broken dont try to fix it
 

Joe acquiost

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If something is not broken dont try to fix it

The gasket was leaking when cold shutdown and the coil was no longer in use. Seemed pointless to keep it on all summer just to mask the leak.

Anyway, it is empty now with a new temp/pressure gauge (stuck) and drain valve. Always drip once "stuff" gets on the seat.

The only way I see to add Rectorseal or any treament, is to remove the Taco circ pump and dump it in. I suppose I should order new o-rings before I do that. Only holds maybe 13-15 gallons, so one quart should do it?
 

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Still have not done fill as I decided to replace all the air bleeds at the radiators as well as the vent on the air separator . Just because I can.

As it did the bottom of the air vent on the separator had black gunk on it, and the two first floor air bleeds I replaced flushed out a bit of black mess and "crud" before running clean. I was expecting some flow as I had not isolated these radiators and and not drained the piping.

I don't think it is a great idea to "treat and flush" as system this old and it may not be a great idea to put in a treatment that might try to "clean" stuff either, but a treatment that "neutralizes" the fresh water might not be wrong. I get very little information that I find useful on vendor sites or from local supply houses. The locals say they do not sell much and it is not asked for by the pro's. But then, I guess they could be using something and just buying in bulk online.
 
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