Blue monster tape for gas (the blue one)

[Nj6964]

I’m doing some gas work and have a spot where I’d like to use tape over Megaloc. I see on my role of blue monster tape that it says approved for natural gas. But they also make a yellow one specifically for gas. The only difference seems to be the color pigment. Any reason not to use blue tape for gas? Is there a code that says it has to be yellow regardless of mfg recommendations? I know yellow tape is the standard for gas, but figured that’s because other tape wasn’t approved for gas…wrong. Thanks all!!

 

[Breplum]

I've rarely bothered to buy the yellow...blue is fine in my experience and opinion.
Any high density tape, even white is fine. Quality of the tape, which is thickness and density, is what matters.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[John Gayewski]

Any tape is fine. But you put the tape directly onto the threads. Then after you have taped the threads you'll work the tape into them. Then you'll dope them. Not the other way around.

 

[Nj6964]

Any tape is fine. But you put the tape directly onto the threads. Then after you have taped the threads you'll work the tape into them. Then you'll dope them. Not the other way around.

Thanks! Not sure I totally understand what you mean “work the tape into threads”. Does this mean don’t wrap it tight enough for the tape to form to the threads? I usually just wrap the threads somewhat firmly then dope them.

 

[John Gayewski]

Thanks! Not sure I totally understand what you mean “work the tape into threads”. Does this mean don’t wrap it tight enough for the tape to form to the threads? I usually just wrap the threads somewhat firmly then dope them.

Use the edge of the tape roll and run the tape into the base of the threads. Yes the tape should be tight but the dope needs to go into the threads after they are taped.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Personally I just wrap tape or dope, but never both even tho that was how I was taught. I haven't seen any benefit to doing both. The only manufactures instructions for doing both that I've ever found was for 2" and larger threads. However if it works and you don't get leaks then I'm good with it too. I know my guys wrap and dope their threads and I see them work the tape into the threads with the edge of the roll of tape too.

There are probably just as many ways to do it correctly as there are ways to do it wrong. But whichever method you get that goes together easy, doesn't leak and doesn't break the fitting when tightened is likely one of the correct ways.

 

[John Gayewski]

Personally I just wrap tape or dope, but never both even tho that was how I was taught. I haven't seen any benefit to doing both. The only manufactures instructions for doing both that I've ever found was for 2" and larger threads. However if it works and you don't get leaks then I'm good with it too. I know my guys wrap and dope their threads and I see them work the tape into the threads with the edge of the roll of tape too.

There are probably just as many ways to do it correctly as there are ways to do it wrong. But whichever method you get that goes together easy, doesn't leak and doesn't break the fitting when tightened is likely one of the correct ways.

Tape seals, dope lubes and let's the tape slide in without peeling off. When I remove a joint I can see the tape on the first two threads smashed into their base.

One time we got called to plumb a printing press for a newspaper. I decided I didn't need tape on some or dope on others. It was threaded pvc. I ended up with leaks on these. Not sure if was actually due to the lack of tape or dope but tape and dope did fix them. That job was kind of a weird one.

I fixed 46 leaks at a warehouse a few weeks ago. They had dope on those very old joints. All I did to stop the leaks was tape and dope the old joints. I couldn't find anything wrong with the threads or fittings. Just probably worked loose because of being hit here and there with forklifts or just plain swaying for years. I think the tape gives the joints a gasket type seal with some flexibility.