Bathtub drain connections question

[tman1991]

Hi. I'm replacing my bathtub with a new one and the old waste line is ABS and is 1/2 too long. I have a few options.

1. Just cut out 1/2 and solvent a union joint.
2. Replace the end with a new shoe and solvent weld it
3. Use a kit that has slip joint fittings that either use it's own connecting ells or get a 1 1/2 slip nut piece I can solvent weld onto the existing ell.

That's the first set of things to figure out. Similar for the overflow. Now I have my old I can adapt but American standard has their recommend overflow that allows you to make a deep soak tub my essentially making the overflow hole smaller they plug 1/2 of it up with their plate and market it as deep soak drain. Marketing eh. But its an option. But the drain is all slip joint. That seems to scare me. I have noticed if I get a slip joint fitting that is solvent weld to the existing abs it seems very tight compared to the thin plastic that comes with the American standard drain kit.

So what's recommended. Its very odd there are so many slip joint kits being sold especially for bathtubs that one usually has no access to after installed.

I'm trying to avoid cutting out my entire old drain system as there is only 2 in above the p trap to work with if I had to start over.

Thanks for the help. Long time lurker.

 

[tman1991]

Also since im using an acrylic tub i guess I need to use silicone under the drain?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Tub drains are weird sometimes. Inspectors have been requiring us to use glued up waste and overflow drains, and yet some tubs work very well with the slip joint drains. The idea is to get rid of places where a leak can develop. Normally I use a new tub drain everytime. I've never reused an old drain before. I don't plan on reusing the old p-trap either. If you can, then why not, but don't count on it.

For acrylic, they make a stainless putty, or you can use Silicone. The seal is at the rubber washer sandwiched between the shoe and the tub. That part is normally installed clean. And no tape on the drain threads. That's supposed to thread down and clamp tight.

 

[tman1991]

Yeah the slip joint things kinda scare me but the approved american standard drain is all slip joint.

I can glue on these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-ABS-DWV-Hub-x-SJ-Trap-Adapter-C58017HD112/100344620 but that's still slip joint. It's a very tight fit. Wondering if I could actually glue those. For the shoe I can reuse I think and use a union joint after I cut out a 1/2. But the overflow to use the deep soak part requires their adapter which is inserted in the 1 1/2 pipe.

This is the drain I can use but seems cheaply made.
https://www.build.com/american-standard-1640-305/s90301

 

[Dj2]

" Its very odd there are so many slip joint kits being sold especially for bathtubs that one usually has no access to after installed."
Is this bath tub on a slab or second floor?
- You need access to the drain for future repairs or alterations.

 

[tman1991]

Yeah its 2nd floor.

That's why I'm shocked to see american standard sell a $150 drain with slip fit connecting parts and its not even good abs plastic. It's the really thin plastic. The trim pieces look nice but the plumbing parts are junk.