Any drill bit recommendations for drilling the lead around a cast iron pipe for removal?

[ShelzMike]

I have tried everything I can to avoid needing to remove all the way to the bottom bell (that sits on my slab) but, alas, it appears I have no choice as I am unable to drain my utility sink and washer properly due to the height at which I would have to cut the cast to use a regular fernco. So I plan on using a fernco donut.

Anyhow, seems easy enough, just a tedious task to drill out the lead. I see references to get "cheap, but not too cheap" bits and plan to go through several. I get that, but will any old regular drill bit do? Anyone have any suggestions of bits that work for them? It is a 4" cast pipe, what size bit should I use to gain maximum effectiveness at each hole drilled? Thanks!

 

[Terry]

You're just drilling a little bit of soft lead. What happens is the bit tends to lock in sometimes and then it snaps.
It's not so bad if you know your're tossing a few in the process.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I would be thinking 3/8 to 1/4 if they fit your gap. Use the remaining bigger ones from your old sets where you lost or broke some bits.

 

[Sylvan]

A decent plumbing supply should have a chisel we use to remove a caulked joint in a hub

The chisel has a slight bend in it and using a ball pein hammer GENTLY you can actually remove the lead in one piece

 

[ShelzMike]

A decent plumbing supply should have a chisel we use to remove a caulked joint in a hub

The chisel has a slight bend in it and using a ball pein hammer GENTLY you can actually remove the lead in one piece

Interesting idea. Seems like less effort and that is always good. Any special name for this tool, or is it just a part of the caulking iron kit that is standard for L&O work?

 

[Sylvan]

The Lead removal is the 5th Iron counting from either right or left

 

[Sylvan]

it actually lifts the lead out of the hub START SLOWLY

 

[Plumber69]

I have tried everything I can to avoid needing to remove all the way to the bottom bell (that sits on my slab) but, alas, it appears I have no choice as I am unable to drain my utility sink and washer properly due to the height at which I would have to cut the cast to use a regular fernco. So I plan on using a fernco donut.

Anyhow, seems easy enough, just a tedious task to drill out the lead. I see references to get "cheap, but not too cheap" bits and plan to go through several. I get that, but will any old regular drill bit do? Anyone have any suggestions of bits that work for them? It is a 4" cast pipe, what size bit should I use to gain maximum effectiveness at each hole drilled? Thanks!

Once you do a few, it really doesn't take that long at all

 

[hj]

It is called a "lead pick".

 

[hj]

Lead is so soft that y0uhave to really "abuse" the bit to need more than one to remove the lead. Drill closely spaced holes, the "wiggle" the bit around to connect them, which makes a "slot' continue around the joint until it almost all gone, then wiggle the cast iron out.

 

[Reach4]

Note the lead does not go all of the way to the bottom of the slot. The bottom would be a fiber called oakum.

 

[ajmckay2]

I just did this - was pretty easy with a 1/4" bit. Drilled holes along 1/2 the perimeter and then it was able to wiggle out - then the lead just peeled away. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/cast-iron-toilet-flange-replacement.84937/

 

[Reach4]

Dish detergent is often suggested as a lubricant when inserting the donut. Expect that to take significant force.

 

[ShelzMike]

Dish detergent is often suggested as a lubricant when inserting the donut. Expect that to take significant force.

So I have read. I guess on one hand, a pain to put in, but on the other hand, good that it is so tight. I called Fernco and got the exact specific donut for my CI application also as I know they sell them in 1/8" differences and 4" to 4"in isn't always the same.