Advice Needed for New Home Filter/Softner Install

[TX-Tim]

I'm currently in the process of getting a home built and wanted to prepare for getting a carbon filter/softner installed in Georgetown, TX area. Our previous home (Dallas) had a Rainsoft system installed, so we know we want to go back to a softner, especially since the rental we are in not does not have anything. I am just not looking to pay Rainsoft $$$.

The house will be roughly 3000 ft2, with 3.5 bathrooms. There are 2 adults + 2 kids (under 6).
With all the information out there, I've not 100% sure on what size the system needs to be.

Current water usage: varies between 4-6K gallon a month, but want to ensure it is sized for when kids get older.

I purchased a water test kit (Health Metric) and got the following from the model house:

** City Water **
pH: 9.5
Alkalinity: 500 ppm
Chlorine: 1.0 ppm
Hardness: 250 ppm
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0.2 ppm
Copper: 0.05 ppm
Iron: Color seemed to be between 0 & 0.3 ppm

** Is this test kit ok, or should I get a "real" test **

The water loop installed is 1" PEX tubing.

If have been looking at the Fleck 5810 valves

I know I want 10% crosslinked resin, but not sure if 1.5 or 2.0 ft3 is needed as I want to ensure this is good as the kids get older. Rainsoft person only recommended 1.0 ft3

The city report shows they use Chloramine, so I know it needs to be Catalytic Carbon, but again, 1.5 or 2.0 ft3. The Rainsoft system we had in Dallas was not back washing, but I am leaning toward one.

I'm also include a picture of the water loop and drain pipes. I'm used to seeing them vertically over each other. Which is intended for the drain and which is the clean-out? I'm thinking the first one from vent line is the clean-out (one on right).

Also, is there any real benefit to doing a sediment filter in front of everything? For some reason I found myself trying to model the Aquasana setup.

Thanks for any comments, suggestions, or insights you can provide.

 

[Reach4]

** Is this test kit ok, or should I get a "real" test **

Yes, get a real lab test. I did not read up on your test.

Based on your numbers a 1.5 cubic ft softener would regenerate maybe every 9 days or so with 4 people. That presumed 0.3 iron, but the reality is that there would be about zero iron in city water by the time it got to the customer. Using a 2.0 cubic ft system would not be a waste; it would regenerate less often. But 1.5 is a good size based on usual methods.

I don't know about sizing the carbon tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

Most cities post an annual water test report online. Even if not online, they will provide a copy upon the request of a resident. Although this will eliminate the need for you to have testing performed, water hardness will need to be determined at your location. A Hach 5B test kit is recommended since an 'average' hardness level the city will often state, is not suitable for programming a softener.

With 3.5 baths, there is potential for multiple fixtures to be running at the same time. Each softener capacity has a different service flow rate which if exceeded, will allow hardness to leak through. Here is a link to an info page which discusses sizing a softener in consideration of the flow rate required. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/48-49

A carbon filter system also has an effective flow rate which is between 1-3 gpm per ft3 of carbon media. A flow range is indicated as each 'contaminant' to be filtered out will have a different contact duration requirement with the carbon before full removal will take place. A larger quantity of carbon will allow for a higher flow rate before some amount of contaminants will begin to leak through.

While a 1.5 ft3 system will be often adequate for an average smaller home, a larger system will be needed to support the higher flow rate requirements expected in a larger home with a higher fixture count.

 

[ditttohead]

slightly larger equipment is preferred. Better efficiencies and better water quality will be achieved especially at higher flow rates.

 

[Taylorjm]

As others said, flow rate will play a big part. I just installed a new softener but my water is much harder than yours at about 800ppm, so I went with the 2.0cf and a flow rate of 20gpm (which our well can maybe push 15gpm). I looked into a backwashing carbon filter, but they really seemed to restrict the flow a lot. The highest flow rate ones I found were at uswatersystems.com That's where I purchased a softener from a few weeks ago. I will say their pre sales staff is very knowledgeable and quick turn around. I had a couple questions after my installation and they have not been answered in a few days, so I'm concerned a little bit, but at least they are located in Indiana (I think) and have a real live number and people to talk to if I really need to get an answer. I do like that the softener has an app for your phone to control all the settings and tells you the gpm and gallons used and treated, etc.

 

[Reach4]

pH: 9.5

For city water, get the report from the water department/company. I doubt that any public water pipeline would send pH 9.5 water to homes. I don't trust your home test.

If you cannot get a suitable report, we can suggest a lab water test. Some are more comprehensive, and some are less expensive but still do the important stuff.

Chlorine/chloromine is one that you may realistically do from home. The city test will not tell the chlorine/chlormine level at your house because the level drops with time.

 

[TX-Tim]

Thanks for the information. I'll check into getting a real water test.

 

[TX-Tim]

Ok, here are the results from NTL

** City Water **

Calcium: 50.8 mg/L
Magnesium: 17.49 mg/L
Iron: ND
Alkalinity: 160 mg/L
TDS: 240 mg/L
Hardness: 200 mg/L
pH: 7.3