Adding Second Pressure Tank

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Bill Braun

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Had the plumber out because I had no water pressure. Turned out to be a blown fuse (frn-r-8). He replaced the fuse with a frn-r-10. The pressure tank I have is very small (4.6 gallon). He said the fuse may have blown because the system recycles quite often. He suggested adding an additional 33 gallon pressure tank. As I understood him I would just tap into to 3/4" supply line. What fittings will I need to do this. My system is mostly pex. Will I need all this?http://www.amazon.com/Installation-Pressure-SQUARE-pressure-switch/dp/B00SW0E26I/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1448058262&sr=8-16&keywords=well pressure tank?

or just a tank T that I will tie into the supply line?

Thanks for the help.

Bill
 

Reach4

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You should not need all of that to just supplement your current pressure tank. You would not, for example need a new pressure switch, pressure gauge, etc. If that tank tee looks like it will make things easier, you could incorporate it.
 

Valveman

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4.6 gallon tank is all you need if you add a CSV. A 33 gallon pressure tank only holds 8 gallons of water. Eliminating cycling with a CSV is much better than having the pump cycle every time you use 8 gallons of water.
 

Bill Braun

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Here is my setup. It is a system to deal with radon in the water and a softener. My well flow rate is not great. Around 1 gpm. The well is into a rock fracture that holds about 500 gallons. We have further storage in the tank you see in the picture. We have not had a problem of running out of water. Where would I install the CSV? If I did add a larger tank I believe that I would install it on the water line before it gets to the pressure tank. Do I simply connect it to the water line with a T fitting?

Thank you for the help...

Bill
 

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Valveman

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Lots of radon systems use CSVs. Just put a CSV1A between the pump and the pressure tank. Then all the cycling will go away and you won't need an additional or larger pressure tank.

A larger pressure tank would cause your nice clean radon free water to sit in a rubber bag for long periods of time. When using a CSV and the small tank you get fresher water right from the source.
 
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Reach4

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The pressure switch will need to be at the/a pressure tank. Should go without saying, but I thought I would say it anyway.
 

ACWxRADR

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Bill,

I must comment on the fuse replacement by your plumber. He replaced an 8 amp fuse with a 10 amp. That is NOT a good practice. The system was designed with the 8 amp fuse for a reason - to protect your pump motor. I understand that people often do oversize the fuses to "get by" temporarily in a situation and avoid the nuisance fuse replacements, but I would urge you to replace the fuse with the correct size soon.

Electrical circuit protection devices like fuses and circuit breakers are designed to protect your equipment. They are already oversized by a certain margin in the first place. Beefing them up or exceeding that margin is reducing the protection zone for your equipment.

RADAR
 

ACWxRADR

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I should add to my post comments above. If you are blowing fuses that are appropriately sized, you have a problem beyond the size of your pressure tank. Something else is wrong and adding additional storage capacity isn't going to fix the problem. Installing a larger fuse will just delay the inevitable failure of the system. You must investigate the problem that caused the overcurrent condition which opened the fuse in the first place and correct it. The higher amperage fuse may buy you a little time to investigate this problem, but it isn't going to go away or improve. The 10 amp fuse will eventually blow, too. ZYou could replace it with a 15 amp fuse and then whatever the problem really is will soon become apparent. But, you might burn up your wires and or destroy your pump in the process.

RADAR
 
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