2008 ..... Pig Slop Award.....

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Master Plumber Mark

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Are these 2 heaters in series or in Paralll????????

Monday 3-3

went to a dog grooming shop today and they were
complaining about the heaters not giving them enough
hot water, someone had "fixed the problem" a while back....... the 1700 anti scald faucet on the dog bath
was fluctuating from hot to cold all the time....


it looks like it is half in series and half in parallell to me......

comes in cold on the top right and goes out hot on the leftt

notice their is only a cold water shut off for the first water heater..

and the lines are certainly not balanced out properly....
 
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Master Plumber Mark

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Is this quality pex work or pig slop????

Monday 3-3 everywhere I went today I had to stop and take pictures....

wouild you consider this a quality pex install of a sears water conditioner ???

The lady paid a plumber to put this in a month ago...?
 
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Spaghetti Monster

What do you think of this workmanship?

This was my home system before I had it re-piped. Note the non-code pipe on domestic water.

Then there is the T-valve used to moderate the scalding water that is downstream from the water tank. That is not the energy efficient way to pipe.

For some reason this system would eject water all over the boiler room.

You can read my story, "Weil McLain rep lacks integrity" at https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19178

I'd enjoy reading your opinions.
 

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Herk

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Master Plumber Mark said:
it looks like it is half in series and half in parallell to me......

Geez, that's just fer dumb. It won't work that way. You'll wind up with cold water from one heater and nothing from the other. Proper way to do this simply is to put cold into one, hot into the other's cold, then that one's hot side to the hot line.

In other words, one heats the water first, then pipes to the next. Of course, that's not always a perfect system. I did some once in a "hot room" - a heavily insulated room for heaters. The first heater was for pre-heat only and it allowed the water to warm to room temperature. The insulated room kept heat in from the other heater and helped. The first heater had no power source, only the second. The idea was to take the chill off the water before it was piped into the other tank.
 

Herk

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Master Plumber Mark said:
wouild you consider this a quality pex install of a sears water conditioner ???

Not too bad, I guess. What's that orange thing? Looks as if he left his Sharkbite removal tool behind . . .
 

spryde

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Ok, I'll bite...

My layman eyes sees unsupported pex. It is supposed to be supported every 32" in a horizontal run. It looks like it could be > 32". Where does that other PEX pipe go to behind the one in the foreground? Further, aesthetically and practically it should not be hanging over the front of the unit like that. Adding salt would probably cause you to bump that pipe repeatedly. One false move and you have a mess on your hands. Finally, I am not an electrician but can you have an outlet that close. I thought it had to be a minimum distance away.

SP
 
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Lakee911

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This is a sample sink.



This mess was all because the conctractor refused to use trenchboxes to install an 8" line.


 

Mikey

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Interesting labels on the sink pipes. One wonders why they're testing the sh*t and what they're testing for and who gets to turn on those ball valves.
 

Lakee911

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Those are centrate lines from a centrifuge. Ideally they're clear water that comes from the sludge that is being dewatered. I do not know why they labeled them with those titles though.

Jason
 

Master Plumber Mark

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Getting too old to do these anymore

I stumbled upon this little
HERNIA MAKER today....


two 75 gallon power vents up on metal stands
in the garage with gas lines and recirulation pumps
running underneath and in front of the units....gas lines
about a foot off the ground right out in front of the
metal stands.....


the back unit is a 1995 power vent and of course it is
the one that is leaking.....


basically ( if I get the job) I will have to take out the rheem
unit just to get to the Smith.....
becasue you literally cant manuver in front of the smith. without
takeing out the 18 year old softener, the gas lines, and section on
the furnace too....



then I will have to somehow "he-man"
the 75 gallon up. into mid air and walk it
back into place and then do that again with the Rheem..


(me and three other dummies will)


now what is this little pickle worth???

I am takeing bids on what I estimated it at........
 
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spryde

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This is why I am in computers and not in plumbing :)

When my customers screw up, I smack them on the head, tell them not to do it again, look for the backup tapes and the bottle of Advil. When your customers screw up or have an issue, you have to lift two tons of fun through a opening narrower than a needle's eye and risk hernia city.

My guess would be about a $800-$1k for the heater and $1000-$1500 for the labor. So... $1800-$2500.

SP
 

Mikey

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You'd pay me to R&R my 80 gallon solar tank (American Water Heater Co.). It's way in the back of a 32" wide closet, but there are quick-disconnects on everything (4 water, 2 electrical), and it's on a wheeled platform. Takes me 8 minutes to get it out in the open, and I'm a scrawny geezer with a bad back.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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I think I over bid this one....

have not heard back from them as of yet....

perhaps I over bid this one at $3800...

but that was also with plumbing them in
series and installing a bypass on both heaters.
and repairing the gas lines under the haters...

oh well....its ok with me either way....
 
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