2 vs 3 wire well pump

[Valveman]

If the spring disc was missing, you could turn the bolt easily by hand. And yes the valve would try to stay in the lowest pressure position. But even without the bolt, the spring is long enough to give you maybe 10 PSI.

But no matter what, the CSV would still let through 1 GPM, which would build the pressure to 60 or whatever when all the taps are closed. Since it won't build but more than 40 with the faucets closed, I would think there is a problem with the pump or a pretty good size leak ahead of the CSV.

 

[illrohan]

If the spring disc were missing, wouldn't it make the adjusting screw useless? And even cause the spring to have less tension to no tension than the lowest screw adjustment with the disc in place? Or even worse, a gap between the spring and the spring cage?

illrohan, did you by chance take the spring cage off? I had to to install mine, so I'm aware of what's under it.

Valveman, isn't there a "builtin leak" safety or something, and if the disc were absent could it cause it to not function properly?

1) The spring disc is definitely in and in the correct position. I'm certain of this bc I took the valve apart to make sure nothing was weird.
2) I think the valve's "seating" surfaces have a groove/notch in it or something like that, so that it could never cause the pump to dead head. Although I feel that's exactly what's happening to my pump.

I wonder if having the CSV installed on a 320' well with a 20' static water level has an affect on the hp & gpm requirements of the pump.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JRC3]

I wonder if having the CSV installed on a 320' well with a 20' static water level has an affect on the hp & gpm requirements of the pump.

I guess a gauge might tell.

 

[Craigpump]

Pull the pitless up, put a 200 psi gauge on the pipe then turn the pump on. How much pressure do you have?

 

[illrohan]

Pull the pitless up, put a 200 psi gauge on the pipe then turn the pump on. How much pressure do you have?

I'm pulling it tomorrow

 

[Valveman]

If you know the horsepower and GPM of the pump, I can tell you how much pressure it will (or is suppose) to build with a 20' static? That is the one calculation that always needs to be done to make sure the particular pump will work with a CSV.

Pump deadhead pressure minus the static water level equals the maximum backpressure on the CSV.

 

[illrohan]

If you know the horsepower and GPM of the pump, I can tell you how much pressure it will (or is suppose) to build with a 20' static? That is the one calculation that always needs to be done to make sure the particular pump will work with a CSV.

Pump deadhead pressure minus the static water level equals the maximum backpressure on the CSV.

I'm pulling it tomorrow. I will be updating periodically throughout the day

 

[illrohan]

Btw.... a huge THANK YOU to everyone that has and continues to offer their time and insight. "Appreciative" is an understatement.

 

[KPS water]

Don't pull it until you test it at the wellhead like Craigpump said. Pop it from the well seal or pitless. Put a gauge on it with a valve and fire up the pump slowly close the valve if the pressure gauge starts the rise 66-80-100 then you know the pump is capable of making pressure. Make sure you have two people, shut the valve off quick and at the same time shut the power off to the well pump. Watch the gauge and see if it drops on a closed valve if it drops quick you've got a bad check valve or a leak in the well. It should hold pressure. If the well pump is making substantial pressure at the wellhead and it is holding pressure your problem is in the offset between the well and the house you'll then need to pressure test that . Don't make the mistake of just pulling the well pump before you test it.
Good luck looks like there's more snow on the way tomorrow for us here in Connecticut so make sure you get it done today .

 

[illrohan]

What's that hose doing

there?
I'm waiting for a friend to come over for the turn on/off. I'm going to take that plug off the top of the T and see if I can get a gauge on there

 

[illrohan]

here's a better pic of that mystery fitting

 

[Reach4]

What's that hose doing there?

The intention was that that would serve as an air vent that would take in air above the water line of a flooded pit. It could also have served as a way to insert bleach solution for sanitizing.

It very probably did not work out, because that well seal, like mine, leaked. See the water line mark on the wall of the pit? It is not a foot up. Instead it is at about the level of the casing. Coincidence? Unlikely. Instead the flood water leaked down the casing, limiting the water rise.

I did a lot of stuff trying to extend my air vent, thinking things would be waterproof. I also cleaned my concrete pit with an excess of laundry detergent. I got motivated when I saw suds in my water and found the water level was right at the top of the casing. I have the old seal still. No way it would have been waterproof.

I temporized with a utility pump and a float switch, because my casing extended a few inches above the concrete. But I felt a whole lot better having the thing taken care of right.

 

[Craigpump]

That 1" poly is a vent, the well needs to breathe....but if the surface water gets over that pipe, it will get drawn into the well and could contaminate the water.

As for that fitting, looks like a union that's drilled and tapped for a snifter. I bet if you pull it apart you'll find it corroded to the size of a pencil.

 

[JRC3]

I bet if you pull it apart you'll find it corroded to the size of a pencil.

Wouldn't that be an awesome fix?

 

[illrohan]

Wouldn't that be an awesome fix?

it's def not a union. corroded... probably right, i wouldn't doubt that a bit

 

[illrohan]

So I put a gauge on that tee and press didn't raise past 40. And it took a very long time to get there from 35. After about a minute of pushing 40 PSI I felt the pipe Shake and the pump shut down, all the pressure dropped instantly and when I removed the gauge from the top of the tee there was no longer any water in the vertical pipe going down the well. I'm thinking possibly could the foot valve or any of the check valves have blown out somehow

 

[illrohan]

Anyone have any advice on removing that well cap? When I try to turn the nuts they seem to be seized up on The Bold and the whole thing spun. I don't want to cut them off and have the head of the bolt full down the well

 

[Craigpump]

It's not the bolt that creates the problem, it's the lower 1/2's of the seal that drop and traps everything in the hole.

The ABSOLUTE best thing you can do is hire someone who has the experience and equipment to remove the seal without losing anything in the hole.

 

[KPS water]

Unfortunately testing it from the plug does not tell you exactly where you are losing pressure. You need to pop the well seal, disconnect the Tee from the offset pipe then run your test . As far as how to remove the wheel seal, attempt to loosen all four bolts. Make sure there are no women and children present to avoid any serious cuss words! Get ready to throw tools , Bust every knuckle and bleed everywhere, and more than likely you're going to need a couple of very good crowbars something to pry against and a little good all fashion muscle to pop the well seal out. If you're lucky it'll be on coil pipe and it won't be extremely heavy and somewhat flexible. If you're not so lucky it'll be on schedule 22 or 40 and more than likely you'll snap the pipe under the wheel seal & lose the pump down the well. If you have very bad luck it'll be on galvanized pipe And super heavy.

 

[illrohan]

Wouldn't that be an awesome fix?

It's not the bolt that creates the problem, it's the lower 1/2's of the seal that drop and traps everything in the hole.

The ABSOLUTE best thing you can do is hire someone who has the experience and equipment to remove the seal without losing anything in the hole.

this one comes apart in halves, if I can't easily loosen them up than I'll call in the pros