With PVC you can't give much pull or it will snap. Try getting a secondary source of water like a neighbors hose and wash water down the inside pipe and then the outside pipe (space between them). I have found that going down and then back up while twisting can often be the trick. We use steel pipe in steel wells for this reason.
Good luck.
Well, it went like this. I eventually got a hold on the top edge of the pipe with a pair of super long pliers. I managed to pull the pipe out of the well in one big piece. I measured it as 28 feet to the check valve that was on the bottom. I took some fishing line and a sinker from my tackle box and dropped it to the bottom of the well. The first thing is that the installer charged me by the foot and he told me he went down 80 feet. That was a not true if the water pipe ( 1- 1/4 PVC) was only 28 feet. After 18 years, the well bottom clocked in at 48 feet. OK, so at 28 feet, I use to get plenty of water because I live in Florida close to rivers, and the ocean. The ocean is at least a mile away.
I bought 40 feet of schedule 40 PVC, and a new check valve that was exactly like the one that was on the old pipe. It is all installed now, and working very well. I also had a 1 inch pipe coming out of a 1.25" pump outlet, so I increased that the 1.25". I replaced all the PVC and fittings. The volume of water coming from the well is big, I am driving 8 big mechanical heads, and I added two more. Then while they ran, i opened the facet on the main artery of my system . It shot out 15 feet, and the heads kept spraying like nothing happened. It is a 1.5 HP pump with a 2 inch input that is cut back to 1.25" I should have thought to use steel pipe, it is only water for the grass and plants, so it probably was not cost effective.
I paid $3000 to have that well pounded in 18 years ago.
