1970 Cast Iron Toilet Flange Not Lined Up Properly

[Gene Bryant]

After a 5 month gut and remodel of a 1970 fishing cabin we are putting things back together after complete overhaul of plumbing except for cast iron vent which I left (although I broke the lavatory drain/vent into the pipe and had to come up with another way) -- I went to put new toilet in today and noticed my toilet flange was turned where the normal place to put closet bolts did not align -- I can put them in one of the cutouts (the toilet supply line in the picture is comes out parallel to where closet bolt goes --- I question that though, afraid over time it might work it's way out of the side of the flange -- thought about maybe tomorrow running by box store and getting a flange repair ring, put the closet bolt in ring and then put it under the indention of the old flange -- that way it can't come out side ways ---- guessing these cutouts/indentions are where you can screw the flange down to wood subfloor?

I noticed when I pulled out floor and toilet it had screws toward front of toilet into subfloor - first time I had seen that - but going back with new toilet.

Maybe it would be ok to just put them into that indention and tighten down with nut on flange?

Also, when I sat toilet I did not get a mashing wax down like I have in past, and when I pulled toilet, the wax ring was stuck to bottom of toilet, but it wasn't mashed much if at all. Flange is sitting on subfloor and went with vinyl planks that are about 1/8th of inch so it appears the finished floor is close to bottom of flange - maybe I should go with one of the bigger wax rings + the repair ring might bring it up a hair?

I am a not a builder nor plumber - we've just done it all because it is so far out we've not had a lot of luck getting anyone to come that far.

Here is a picture of the flange - seems to look pretty decent for 1970 -- I would not know how to get it off to replace - wanted to replace all that cast iron, but afraid it is above my skill level.

EDIT: wondering about going with something like this (new picture/mounting screws) and screwing into subfloor? I bet that is how they had the original mounted and I just did not notice it when I tore floor out

 

[Reach4]

If you are asking if you can use the slots open to the edge of the flange, rather than the long slots in an arc, for your closet bolts, then yes you can. Some prefer that.

However you should screw the closet flange down to the floor before tugging up on the flange with closet bolts. Is that closet flange moving around when you press or tug? I might add some shims before securing that to the floor-- depending on things.

Holding the toilet down with those screws you show does not seem as good.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gene Bryant]

If you are asking if you can use the slots open to the edge of the flange, rather than the long slots in an arc, for your closet bolts, then yes you can. Some prefer that.

However you should screw the closet flange down to the floor before tugging up on the flange with closet bolts. Is that closet flange moving around when you press or tug? I might add some shims before securing that to the floor-- depending on things.

That is exactly what I am asking - my fear was the closet bolts eventually working their way toward the edge of flange and coming loose after toilet is sat. After going bed last night I thought maybe if I just put a sheetrock screw into the wood on outside edge of flange, below the flange, it would prevent the closet bolt from being able to work it's way toward outside

Holding the toilet down with those screws you show does not seem as good.

The flange is tight - prob hasn't moved since 1970 - when I sat the toilet it appeared to sit directly down on finished floor without rocking, but I question if it is high enough since the wax ring had little or now deformity when I pulled toilet back off - I will measure when I go back out today to see if it is at least 1/4 inch higher than finished floor -- wish the flange was moving around, I would pull it off and put a new one on

I will use go ahead and put some screws through flange into subloor to help secure - thanks for that idea

On the wax ring, should it not flatten out some? After reading here, I don't want to use the one that came with toilet with a horn - will run by today and get a thicker non horn one - seems some recommend the lime green foam one

 

[Reach4]

On the wax ring, should it not flatten out some? After reading here, I don't want to use the one that came with toilet with a horn - will run by today and get a thicker non horn one

Yes, there should be some squishing all of the way around. Position the shims before dropping the toilet on the wax, because you don't want to de-compress wax by rocking or to insert shims.

Yes, you could use a waxless ring. Saniseal is one choice, but there are good Fluidmaster and Korky choices too.

https://www.korky.com/products/wax-free-gaskets/wax-free-toilet-seal-kit
https://www.fluidmaster.com/products/toilet/toilet-seals/7530-better-than-wax-wax-free-seal/

See
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/toto-eco-ultramax-installation.79967/#post-579342
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/toilet-flange.92886/#post-669818

 

[Jeff H Young]

The flange is tight - prob hasn't moved since 1970 - when I sat the toilet it appeared to sit directly down on finished floor without rocking, but I question if it is high enough since the wax ring had little or now deformity when I pulled toilet back off - I will measure when I go back out today to see if it is at least 1/4 inch higher than finished floor -- wish the flange was moving around, I would pull it off and put a new one on

I will use go ahead and put some screws through flange into subfloor to help secure - thanks for that idea

On the wax ring, should it not flatten out some? After reading here, I don't want to use the one that came with toilet with a horn - will run by today and get a thicker non horn one - seems some recommend the lime green foam one

the wax needs some squish. we commonly double up or purchase a "jumbo " ring extra thick. I carry several different rings the std rings are not too thick and often used for doubling up.

 

[Gene Bryant]

Thanks all - got her done -- went ahead and put some panhead screws w/washers on outside of flange and screwed it down to subfloor -- it had not moved since built in 70, but just in case

Went to a local hardware store (this is on lake and about 45 mins from big stores) and got a thicker wax ring than what came with toilet -- wanted a saniseal type, but would have had to drive back to Montgomery for one. I mistakenly thought the closet bolt would come through the outer edge indentions of flange it they turned, but the do not, and I used that and tightened it down with a nut before setting toilet.

I left it uncaulked for time being to make sure I don't see any leaks and then will caulk front and sides and leave rear open.

It set down even on floor with no rocking whatsoever, so did not use shims.

So this is the original bathroom in the cabin from 1970 - and the septic tank is right outside the bathroom - so it drops down and pretty much goes to septic - talk about a quick flush.

The add on bathroom on other end of house has a PVC run in crawl space and ties into the same 3 inch cast iron from this toilet - it's flush is not nearly as quick.

Would one of those under vanity vents be wise to install?

Tks again

 

[Reach4]

Would one of those under vanity vents be wise to install?

Probably, assuming there is a real vent elsewhere in the system.

 

[Jeff H Young]

added bathroom with out any vents? put a vent or at least an AAV for the lav. so it doesn't lose trap seal