Ahh got confused sorry. I see now.
1 last thing tho, do you know where that pipe leads to tho? Im going to dig around it, but just wonderin
What type of system is this and can anyone name the parts to it?
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Ahh got confused sorry. I see now.
1 last thing tho, do you know where that pipe leads to tho? Im going to dig around it, but just wonderin
Question for you, do you know which pressure switch goes to which pressure tank? Because the top switch is a 30/50 and the bottom switch is a 40/60.
Thanks
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Top switch goes with the blue tank.
Thank you very much! Then the blue tank is the 30 50 and the tan is the 40 60.
I just checked both the tan and blue, blue is at 22 not 28 and tan is at 27 not 38. Bad?
1- how did you check the tank pressures? To check them pumps must be off, lines depressurized and tanks drained completely.
2- Don’t rely on the pressure label on the pressure switches. Those labels only designate how they were adjusted when they left the factory. They are field adjustable. For example my well supply pressure switch is labeled as a 40-60 and we Adjusted it up to 50-70.
3- if the pressure tank readings you took were accurate then being slightly low would only change the cycle On-Off frequency of the pump, not the On-Off pressures.
Your well and/or well pump cannot supply the volume needed to supply your sprinkler heads. I had the same issue. Mine was a low volume well. My fix was to have a new 4” well with a new submersible 1.5 HP 25 GPM pump installed. Cost me about $3,500. Now I can run 7 high volume rotors per zone (3 zones) and maintain Pressure. Rotors use about 3+ GPM.
Ya, i drained the tanks. One read 27 other 22.
Anyways, if my inground pump doesnt havent enough volume for the sprinklers, does that mean the pump is shot or its just a shitty pump?
House is 13 years old, however my neighbors had a new well drilled, but the others next to me didnt, so idk.
And how would I know if its the water table or actual pump too? Because my house doesnt lose water pressure at all.
Time to call Water Medic who’s label is on your aerator tank for a service call.
Your house pressure is supplied by the pump in the aerator tank which has sufficient capacity to run showers, toilets, sinks etc.
What gives you that impression?
According to the manufacture site the Water Guard aerator tank has a 1/2 HP submersible pump. You can see the Power wires from the top pressure switch going into the tank. That pump is rated for 20 GPM @ 60 PSI. https://waterefining.com/product/sulfur-outdoor-aerator-model-20my2as/
Jerry
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Bannerman
Well-Known Member
An aeration tank is typically utilized as an initial water treatment device, to cause the oxidation of undesirable metals and elements within the water that are difficult to remove, to convert them to other forms which will settle out or are more easily removed by conventional filtration.
For example, if your well water were to contain ferrous iron (clear water iron), oxidation performed within the aeration tank, will convert some or all of that ferrous iron into ferric iron which is solid rust particles. Much of those solid particles will settle-out and will accumulate at the bottom of the aeration tank as debris, and any that remain suspended in the tank outflow may be easily removed by a common sediment filter.
Accumulated debris will need to be discharged from the aeration tank on a regular and ongoing basis. Elimination will be performed by opening the ball valve drain at the bottom of the tank and allowing flow until no debris remains. Has this been performed?
If debris elimination has not been performed for some time, depending on which elements are being oxidized and the quantity of each in the raw water, there may be significant debris to be removed. From your photos, I can not determine if there is any drain hose connected to the ball valve to route the discharge somewhere else such as a septic system or ditch, or perhaps into buckets so discharged debris will not accumulate below the ball valve outlet.
For example, if your well water were to contain ferrous iron (clear water iron), oxidation performed within the aeration tank, will convert some or all of that ferrous iron into ferric iron which is solid rust particles. Much of those solid particles will settle-out and will accumulate at the bottom of the aeration tank as debris, and any that remain suspended in the tank outflow may be easily removed by a common sediment filter.
Accumulated debris will need to be discharged from the aeration tank on a regular and ongoing basis. Elimination will be performed by opening the ball valve drain at the bottom of the tank and allowing flow until no debris remains. Has this been performed?
If debris elimination has not been performed for some time, depending on which elements are being oxidized and the quantity of each in the raw water, there may be significant debris to be removed. From your photos, I can not determine if there is any drain hose connected to the ball valve to route the discharge somewhere else such as a septic system or ditch, or perhaps into buckets so discharged debris will not accumulate below the ball valve outlet.
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Hey there bannerman
I havent yet cleaned out the aerator tank, how fast do those things usually take to get dirtied up? I have a valve on bottom of that tank, but wasnt sure if there was anything special that needed to be done prior to draining the tank. Will water in house still work when tanks drained?
I just opened the top and the water smells like ass , should pump have like a white algae slime on it? Should that be cleaned, id have to drain water then.
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That should be plenty to provide sufficient capacity to run showers, toilets, sinks etc.
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The usual procedure would not be to drain the tank completely, but to regularly eliminate the accumulation from the tank bottom.
When performed regularly, this may involve opening the ball valve for only 15-20 seconds every day, every other day or every week as determined by the amount of accumulation normally present. Once no debris is observed flowing out, then the valve would be closed again. Because the debris has not been purged for some time, purging out the accumulation is likely to require considerably more time than 15-20 seconds.
Because you said the water has a fowl odour and there is slime floating, you probably will want to drain the entire tank and use a scrub brush and a suitable cleaner and disinfectant to clean and sanitize the tank interior. All of the water flowing into your home plumbing is routed through that tank. You could collect water for cleaning and rinsing the tank within a separate tank or multiple large buckets before shutting off both pumps and draining. Once the tank is cleaned and rinsed, the well pump would be started first which should be given opportunity to substantially fill the tank before energizing the 2nd pump to feed the home plumbing system.
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Bannerman
Well-Known Member
As there appears to be a valve to connect a garden hose to the line from the well, the well should provide water for cleaning and rinsing if the well pump remains powered. I anticipate if the electrical plug for solenoid valve 'C' is unplugged, that will stop flow into the tank from the well while the cleaning process is being performed.
I would sanitize my well and plumbing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my write-up for deep wells. It may be overkill, but I like overkill when sanitizing.
I would blow out the sediment periodically as Bannerman says, but I am thinking monthly or quarterly may turn out to be enough.
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
That might be correct, but as we haven't seen a lab test report for the water, it remains unknown what elements are present or the quantities.
Once the tank has been fully cleaned, Jim Bob may want to initially purge daily to see if anything is observed. If there isn't anything, gradually extend the time between purges to determine the number of days before there is a significant accumulation.
Take the top off the aerator tank. There should only be a couple of screws holding it down. Then look inside to see if there’s any sediment at the bottom or if there’s any gunk, algae etc on the tank walls.
To clean the tank take the top off and
1- unplug the solenoid and unplug the tank pump wire from the wall outlet.
2- Drain the tank with the ball valve at the bottom and scrub out the tank walls while it’s draining.
3- Connect a hose at the hose bib at the bottom of your picture. That’s supplied by the well pump so you should be able to use it to rise out the tank. You may need to scrub the sides of the tank more to get gunk off.
4- When done rinsing close the ball valve and plug in the solenoid but not the tank pump. The well pump should turn on and water should be coming out of the aerator nozzles. Let the tank fill completely through the aerator nozzles.
5- Once the aerator tank is full then plug in the tank pump plug and you should be good to go.
good luck and report back.
To clean the tank take the top off and
1- unplug the solenoid and unplug the tank pump wire from the wall outlet.
2- Drain the tank with the ball valve at the bottom and scrub out the tank walls while it’s draining.
3- Connect a hose at the hose bib at the bottom of your picture. That’s supplied by the well pump so you should be able to use it to rise out the tank. You may need to scrub the sides of the tank more to get gunk off.
4- When done rinsing close the ball valve and plug in the solenoid but not the tank pump. The well pump should turn on and water should be coming out of the aerator nozzles. Let the tank fill completely through the aerator nozzles.
5- Once the aerator tank is full then plug in the tank pump plug and you should be good to go.
good luck and report back.
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Thanks a lot! I will try that.
Thanks alot. I am going to do that tomorrow.
By the way, i bought a water pressure gauge tester since I have a spigot/bib coming off the well pipes and it was 48 psi. I also filled up a 5 gallon bucket and it took 40 seconds...What would tell me about my sprinkler flow with the zone or what not.
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