Leaking pipe?

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MarkbNJ

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Hey guys, I'm looking for some insight.. I'm wondering what this pipe running parallel to my well pump housing is?
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I never noticed it before but the cap is leaking. I haven't had a chance to dig deeper but from what I felt, it threads into a piece of PVC that joins to (maybe poly pipe? As it bends fairly easily) that butts up next to the well pump housing and continues down.

What I'm wondering is A. What is the pipe/what's it tied to? And B. Is it likely that this leak is the issue I just noticed with low pressure in my system?
Back story - I just dewinterized my irrigation and noticed low pressure in virtually all zones. I went in the basement to check my pressure and I noticed it was sitting at 38psi and not cycling on/off as it should (my switch is 40/60). I let a sprinkler zone run and I turned on a sink and saw my pressure drop to about 20psi. I turned everything off and still heard/saw no movement on my switch but I was building pressure back up, just slowly to about 40psi then very slowly beyond that (never got to get back to it as company was over so I'm not sure what it built up to). Only other note worthy thing was the well pump line was humming (as if it was running or struggling to run) after everything has been closed.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Maybe it's worth noting - It's possible it may have gotten air bound or an air pocket when I pressurized the irrigation? My backflow preventer did leak a little at first and the line shook a little as I was running through the zones but it cleared itself out and nothing leaks now nor does anything shake.. but I don't see how that would cause this leak or have an effect on the pump. If it's airbound tho, I'm wondering if I can vent it at the gate valve that's like right next to the pressure tank. I should just be able to crack that to bleed the air. The other odd thing is the switch wasn't even cycling like it should of been when I was running the water as I stated prior to this edit.
 

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Valveman

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A submersible pump doesn't get "air bound". You most likely have a leak larger than the pump or well can supply. Leaving it running when it won't shut itself off is a good way to melt the pump, pipe, well, and everything. But if the leak is external of the well it won't get hot, just makes a flood.
 

Reach4

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You most likely have a leak larger than the pump or well can supply. Leaving it running when it won't shut itself off is a good way to melt the pump, pipe, well, and everything. But if the leak is external of the well it won't get hot, just makes a flood.
Is that water pooling where the casing meets the ground? I think so. That would point to a leak at/near where the underground pipe attaches to the pitless.

A leak combined with a check valve at the pressure tank can suck in air. If you don't know about the check valve, show us a photo that includes the pipe coming from the well and the input to the pressure tank.

That valve control near the casing is a mystery to me.
 
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MarkbNJ

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A submersible pump doesn't get "air bound". You most likely have a leak larger than the pump or well can supply. Leaving it running when it won't shut itself off is a good way to melt the pump, pipe, well, and everything. But if the leak is external of the well it won't get hot, just makes a flood.

I appreciate the response. I didn't mean the pump is air bound, I meant somewhere along the line near my pressure tank/switch. I apologize for the convulsion, I'm spitballing everything I can think of that may be relevant to my issue. I'm fairly certain that leaking pipe is my culpret tho.

The leak is coming from the end cap or nipple threads on that metal pipe (steady flow, about what you'd see at a sink). It's laying down in the photo but as I traced it down, it threads into PVC (I think, I'm basing it off feel) immediately next to well pump housing that continues down in parallel with the well pump housing. I'm wondering what that pipe is and what would cause it to leak? If you could give me some input there, that'd be great. Thanks!
 

Reach4

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Are you saying that the water is coming from that rusty above-ground thing?

I wonder if that could be a vacuum breaker used as a snifter valve. That seems like it could be a problem in freezing weather.

Mark, how about a photo of your pressure tank.
 
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MarkbNJ

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You think that endcap/piping is an above ground check valve? I was thinking it was some type of vent line? I read some pumps have them to prevent vacuums. If that's the case, what happened and what's the solution? Is it as simple as threading the nipple/endcap out and going to my plumbing supply store to have it sized and replaced?
 

MarkbNJ

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If I kill the power to the pump, it should stop the water and I'd be good to thread out the nipple/endcap and have it sized and replaced? Or is there something I'm missing. Also that pipe was buried before I dug it out to find this leak. Is that normal or should I install and have the endcap above ground? I really appreciate it guys!
 

Reach4

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Former new theory: A vent cap that has an independent connection to the casing to vent the well, and perhaps serve as an overflow for an artesian well. That would not account for air. Looking back, I now think air is not a symptom.

Take a look at https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-New-Haven-1-1-2-OEM-Oil-Tank-Vent-Cap-/293032972765
s-l64.jpg


Revised after reading WorthFlorida: an anti siphon valve buried with the vacuum breaker vent remoted up to that vent cap.
 
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WorthFlorida

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You stated "irrigation" and "parallel". Without digging around the well pipe for a better picture, I see that this piece feeds the irrigation systems without the use of your pressure tank or it is before the pressure tank. I agree with Gary that this is an anti siphon valve and it is to prevent contaminated water from the irrigation system from entering your domestic water system. It could happen if the pump ever failed and faucets were turned on in the home, the water laying in the irrigation pipes can be sucked back into the home, especially if you have a sink or washer in a basement (at a lower level).

Anti Siphon valves works on pressure differences between in and out and atmosphere. At the top there is a diaphragm and over time they do fail. Some can be rebuilt and others outdated where parts are not available. There are difference types and some are called "Pressure Vacuum Breakers", but all do the same.

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shopping
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Bannerman

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I'm wondering what this pipe running parallel to my well pump housing is?
I think you maybe referring to the electrical conduit running up beside the well casing and entering at the top of the well casing through the well cap. Power is required for a submersible pump so electrical power needs to be supplied into the well casing, down to where the pump is located.
 

WorthFlorida

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If that is in fact a anti siphon vacuum breaker, it is installed at the wrong height. Needs to be higher than than heightest sprinkler head. I now recall something similar at where I worked. There was a 7.5 HP submersible well pump for irrigation only. It irrigated over 12 acres and it was feed by a 3" PVC pipe for 25 zones. When the irrigation system turned off, I could hear from the top of the well pipe air getting sucked in. As the water drained from the sprinkler heads until the water pressure dropped to zero, it needs air behind (acting like a vent).
 

MarkbNJ

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I really appreciate all the feedback. I'm definitely going to have to dig deeper and take a better picture.
But to respond to some of your guys insight - I dont believe it's electrical (I'm referring to the OEM 1" endcap/pipe). My irrigation tap off is right after my pressure tank in the basement (along side my house line) so I'm not sure I'd still have a vent line for the irrigation over there? The only reason I mentioned the irrigation is because I noticed a drop in pressure as I was cycling through the zones the other day and stumbled on that leaking pipe. And everything else said was just to possibly put things into perspective for a possible cause and effect. I do know I can't find much information on anything related to a well having a separate vent line so I'm not sure my answer is - kill the power to the pump. Thread out the nipple with endcap. Replace it. Install new and stand upright

Edit: I say "my answer" to the problem being a corroded endcap/nipple threading that's leaking. I believe that's the issue at hand. I'm just not sure how that OEM pipe ties into the whole system to know if that's truly the solution or if something else is probably wrong/bad because of this
 
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MarkbNJ

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Former new theory: A vent cap that has an independent connection to the casing to vent the well, and perhaps serve as an overflow for an artesian well. That would not account for air. Looking back, I now think air is not a symptom.

Take a look at https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-New-Haven-1-1-2-OEM-Oil-Tank-Vent-Cap-/293032972765
s-l64.jpg


Revised after reading WorthFlorida: an anti siphon valve buried with the vacuum breaker vent remoted up to that vent cap.

Your "former new theory" is kind of what I'm thinking but I can't find much (really any) information relevant to it. Is that a common thing? If so, is it as simple as the cap and nipple were buried (no idea why) and corroded through. The timing was coincidence or maybe I overlooked water there. And all I'll need to do is thread in a new cap/nipple (with no concern that anything else has been damaged) and problem solved?

Edit: how would I know if I have an artesian well? I do have clay maybe a foot below the topsoil hauled in prolly upon construction
 
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Reach4

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Edit: how would I know if I have an artesian well? I do have clay maybe a foot below the topsoil hauled in prolly upon construction
Lift the well cap cover. If water comes out, you have an artesian well. If the water level in the casing matches the height of the gadget on the pipe,you have an artesian well. Do it on a hot day where you don't mind getting a little wet putting the cover back on.

Maybe wait for one of the well pros to sanity check this. I am not a pro.

I am now pretty sure that gadget is just a screened vent and not a vacuum breaker.

That said, WorthFlorida's theory makes sense.
 
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