Recent content by Texas Wellman

Do you have plastic or galvanized casing ? I have ran across bad spots in the casing in the past where there is essentially a defect or bulge that won’t let the jet pass. What part of Houston?

You better find out exactly what pump and the water level you are pumping from. A lot of high flow pumps won’t make much pressure and high head pumps won’t make much flow. 5 HP is about as big of a motor as you can get for a typical 4” well. I suspect you will need to change the wet end.

Leak could be coming from the air release (AVC) or the snifter valve. The AVC will intermittently leak sometimes because it has a float that can get stuck or little particles in the mechanism. The snifter valves always leak after a few months but should only leak when the pump is running...

If there is a tailpipe it doesn’t do anything so in my opinion you could leave it out if you wanted to. I assume the 1.25” couplings were mentioned because sometimes they used 1” pipe instead. If the ejector is in good shape just reuse it.

It’s a packer style jet. It sounds like the well itself is plugging off after 40+ years. Around these parts a well that old would have steel casing and a stainless screen but I’m not sure what kind of completion you’d have so check with local drillers. We’d pull the suction pipe and test the...

There is only one brand of galvanized tank left in America. Quick Tank galvanized tanks AFAIK. There are some other ones that are not galv. but glass lined. I would stick to galvanized tanks. If yours has a hole in it you probably have poor quality water. Most tanks here outlast the people...

I’d go 1” all the way thru then upconvert back to 1.25”. I use 1” suction pipe all the time but not as long of a distance.

Most well x trol tanks use the same port for inlet and outlet so even if the tank is 8’ away it should make no difference.

I’ve heard this often on this board but never understood the logic. The lathers are going into water where they will swell up. No need to put soap or anything else on them.

With no tank even a small amount of leakback will be huge to the pressure (fully hydraulic). Install a small tank and you won’t notice a problem. Most jets with leathers and footvalve leak a little.

That is a special reducing adapter (SRA) made in Houston to connect 1" drop pipe to the well head that is 1.25" threads. Originally the wells were made of steel casing 2" and used 1.25" drop pipe with special "turned" collars. These were regular 1.25" steel collars shaved down to fit into 2"...

Normally you would not have any valves in the discharge lines. You would have to custom install one. Be sure to remove it after the test as well. The other possibility is that the water level has risen allowing the pump to pump more water. More water equals higher amps.

I would throttle the discharge to the pump. If amps go up it’s on it’s way out.

You stated that with 2 sprinklers going the pump barely shuts off and with three it never shuts off. This is not a bad thing. As long as the pump can maintain decent pressure continuously running is ideal. I realize you had more zones running before but since you already have the pump and...

You don’t unscrew anything unless you want to. You pull everything out, well seal and all. It’s a $20-30 part. I normally leave the well seal on and remove and replace once the pipe is out and laying just above the ground. In fact I don’t even bother trying to loosen the bolts or anything. Just...