Recent content by NoviceLurker

Asking, of course. I don’t see any vent for the shower nor the toilet. The toilet is under three feet away from main stack. The tub drain is about nine feet max.

If that’s the case then, this 100 year old house that has ever had a problem with drainage other than lead failing, and cast iron rusting on the inside changing the inside diameter, then this tub should never have been able to drain flawlessly aside from hair clogs.

Since this was a tub, the overflow acted as the vent, right? So, with this situation, it will be impossible for me to use the cast iron because there’s no way I can see how to add an AAV. Now, I’m not sure what to do? If the above pipe layout I did is not usable, I’m not sure how to proceed...

I can put a vent anywhere after it connects to sink line. If a vent is necessary, how is any shower base done now since everything I’ve read states that a vent need to be accessible and not buried in a wall? Attaching it to the cast iron pup that was there, there will be ZERO vent. No place to...

Shower base is in, and now that it’s in, I can see how the pipes will fit. I can reach the 1 1/2” sink line to 2”washing machine line with this routing. Will this work? The attached pictures are pretty much the exact measurements. Everything on the way out will be 2”. The kitchen sink line will...

Greenboard is the mold tough that’s at Home Depot. I grew up calling it “greenboard.” Entire inside of shower will be RedGard liquid membrane.

Bathroom is almost ready to be boarded. In the shower, cement board (Fibrock) will be the walls, the ceiling will be greenboard. How do I do the transition with taping the seams where the walls and ceiling meet? Thinset is used for the cement board, but using thinset for the cement...

Will always have access to under the shower, if I break drywall. Which should I use? I purchased both.

FINALLY got it out. It took three hours just to get that little piece of pipe out. Attached is the picture of the inside. It’s a cast iron 45 degree to a straight pipe that goes to the stack. The opening that’s inside is pretty much the same diameter as the inside of a 1 1/2” pipe. The opening...

Taking out that pipe has been a PITA. It was lead and brass. I'm not sure they shaped the brass over the lead, but they did. It was lead pipe inside the brass. By the time I figured that out, I had already started drilling out the lead seal around the pipe. It's still not out after spending...

So it's get the lead out of the cast iron hub, brush it out, then get the linked below? But measure the opening after I take out the lead to make sure it's the correct width? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2-in-Service-Weight-Cast-Iron-Hub-to-2-in-Sch-40-PVC-Compression-Donut-P22U-205/100372278

Here it is, Wayne.

When I get home I'll take a brighter picture of the lead to cast iron.

This is the configuration that should be able to reach the cast iron pipe. The one picture that has the 45 is a top view. I guess there will just not be a cleanout there and will have to take out the coupling between the PVC and end of the lead pipe going into the cast iron if it plugs up? Then...

Yep, a "block." I don't know all, much, of the terms of things. Everything left of the screen is 2" PVC with an Oatey vent and the vertical for the washing machine. That was done by the best professional plumber in the area. I'd have him do all of this, but I want to learn, and also save some...