Shower base finally arrived, and almost ready to put it into place. Drain questions!

[NoviceLurker]

The new Kohler cast iron shower base came in and the drain location is in a different location than the tub. It would seem to be an odd angle to connect the new shower drain to. Also it's a cast iron pipe going to the stack that collects a lot of hair regardless of strainer used. I'd like to bypass it. Replacing it isn't an option as it would be impossible without tearing up the whole floor when isn't happening. I have a sink line right outside the bathroom that I can tie into. I will be redoing the kitchen soon and will be replacing everything to the right of it with 2". To the left is the washer that os connected to 2" that goes to the line that exits out to the street. I'd replace everything to the shower drain with 2". The one issue is the 4x4 stud that blocks the way.

The bottom of the stud is parallel to the bottom of the current 1 1/2" line coming off of the sink. So, the new pipe would have to go under and then up to the height of the 1 1/2". Is this ok to do? If so, how should I tackle it? I would use the cast iron if it would work, but it's 100 years old and collects easily.

Attached is a photo of it all.

 

[WorthFlorida]

........ So, the new pipe would have to go under and then up to the height of the 1 1/2". Is this ok to do? If so, how should I tackle it? I would use the cast iron if it would work, but it's 100 years old and collects easily......

No, you'll create a second trap and it'd be slow draining issues. What is below the floor? A crawl space, basement or first floor?

Is the 4x4 a vertical stud? Going under it doesn't make sense. A picture would help. For stud notching or drilling for pipes there are stud shoes that can help to reinforce the studs. https://www.homedepot.com/s/HSS%20Galvanized%20Stud%20Shoe?NCNI-5

If you have to drill or notch studs here is a guideline.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[NoviceLurker]

No, you'll create a second trap and it'd be slow draining issues. What is below the floor? A crawl space, basement or first floor?

Is the 4x4 a vertical stud? Going under it doesn't make sense. A picture would help. For stud notching or drilling for pipes there are stud shoes that can help to reinforce the studs. https://www.homedepot.com/s/HSS%20Galvanized%20Stud%20Shoe?NCNI-5

If you have to drill or notch studs here is a guideline.

4x4 is horizontal. You can see it right above the "22""

 

[wwhitney]

A few comments:

If you are going to change where the bathtub drain connects, you need to check the layout and sizes of all the drains and vents in the area. If you post a diagram showing them, we can comment on options.

The word stud refers a vertical repetitive member of a wood framed wall. If you have a 4x4 running horizontally between two studs, you'd call it a block.

What is below this floor? Reusing or replacing the existing bath tub drain is definitely worth considering.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[NoviceLurker]

A few comments:

If you are going to change where the bathtub drain connects, you need to check the layout and sizes of all the drains and vents in the area. If you post a diagram showing them, we can comment on options.

The word stud refers a vertical repetitive member of a wood framed wall. If you have a 4x4 running horizontally between two studs, you'd call it a block.

What is below this floor? Reusing or replacing the existing bath tub drain is definitely worth considering.

Cheers, Wayne

Yep, a "block." I don't know all, much, of the terms of things. Everything left of the screen is 2" PVC with an Oatey vent and the vertical for the washing machine. That was done by the best professional plumber in the area. I'd have him do all of this, but I want to learn, and also save some money in the process. Everything to the right is the 1 1/2" you see to the sinks. The sinks are the beginning. The washing machine is the last right before it exits into the horizontal pipe that goes to the street.

Underneath is a very tight crawlspace that is pretty unreachable.

 

[NoviceLurker]

This is the configuration that should be able to reach the cast iron pipe. The one picture that has the 45 is a top view. I guess there will just not be a cleanout there and will have to take out the coupling between the PVC and end of the lead pipe going into the cast iron if it plugs up? Then again, since it's 2", maybe a shake wouldn't have that much trouble going in through the shower drain and making that turn?

 

[wwhitney]

How about a well lit closer picture of the end of the current cast iron? If you've got some lead DWV there, it would make sense to replace it with plastic.

If you can get everything connected by just adding a single 45, that should be fine.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[NoviceLurker]

How about a well lit closer picture of the end of the current cast iron? If you've got some lead DWV there, it would make sense to replace it with plastic.

If you can get everything connected by just adding a single 45, that should be fine.

Cheers, Wayne

When I get home I'll take a brighter picture of the lead to cast iron.

 

[NoviceLurker]

How about a well lit closer picture of the end of the current cast iron? If you've got some lead DWV there, it would make sense to replace it with plastic.

If you can get everything connected by just adding a single 45, that should be fine.

Cheers, Wayne

Here it is, Wayne.

 

[Jadnashua]

What I’d do is remove the pipe sticking out of the CI hub, use a donut to connect PVC there and seal, and build back things with PVC.

To get the pipe out, drill a bunch of holes in the lead around it until you can grab the pipe, flex it back and forth that should loosen the while thing and you can pull it out, or wedge out the lead. Use a wire brush to clean out the hub, and carefully measure the ID of the hub so you can get the right sized donut. Just like in Goldilocks, it needs to be just right, or it’s a bear to get the pipe inserted, or it’s too loose and leaks ..they come in incremental sizes. Code wants a shower drain to be 2” minimum, up from the 1.5” normally used for a tub.

 

[NoviceLurker]

What I’d do is remove the pipe sticking out of the CI hub, use a donut to connect PVC there and seal, and build back things with PVC.

To get the pipe out, drill a bunch of holes in the lead around it until you can grab the pipe, flex it back and forth that should loosen the while thing and you can pull it out, or wedge out the lead. Use a wire brush to clean out the hub, and carefully measure the ID of the hub so you can get the right sized donut. Just like in Goldilocks, it needs to be just right, or it’s a bear to get the pipe inserted, or it’s too loose and leaks ..they come in incremental sizes. Code wants a shower drain to be 2” minimum, up from the 1.5” normally used for a tub.

So it's get the lead out of the cast iron hub, brush it out, then get the linked below? But measure the opening after I take out the lead to make sure it's the correct width?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-...h-40-PVC-Compression-Donut-P22U-205/100372278

 

[NoviceLurker]

Taking out that pipe has been a PITA. It was lead and brass. I'm not sure they shaped the brass over the lead, but they did. It was lead pipe inside the brass. By the time I figured that out, I had already started drilling out the lead seal around the pipe. It's still not out after spending three hours drilling it out. There's so much backed in there, and some areas are difficult to reach.

 

[NoviceLurker]

FINALLY got it out. It took three hours just to get that little piece of pipe out. Attached is the picture of the inside. It’s a cast iron 45 degree to a straight pipe that goes to the stack. The opening that’s inside is pretty much the same diameter as the inside of a 1 1/2” pipe. The opening where I drilled out the lead is 3” even. The 2” Fernco I have fits. I don’t have to hammer in, but I put a piece of pvc in it and tried to get it in the cast iron opening and it’s tight. When I try to put the PVC in it when it’s in the cast iron is going to be pretty tough given the small area I have to maneuver.

A concern I have is how small the opening is in the elbow. Will that be an issue? Once we changed out the lead that was there to the pvc when the tub was there, the draining was pretty good.