Last ditch effort to bypass old cast iron shower line!

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NoviceLurker

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Shower base is in, and now that it’s in, I can see how the pipes will fit. I can reach the 1 1/2” sink line to 2”washing machine line with this routing. Will this work? The attached pictures are pretty much the exact measurements. Everything on the way out will be 2”. The kitchen sink line will still be 1 1/2” until I redo the kitchen.
 

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Breplum

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Nothing in that assembly is proper plumbing.
P-trap from a shower goes directly down into a p-trap. The street 90 of the p-trap creates a "trap-arm" then heads toward the drain, but a vent needs to come off that trap-arm within five feet.
 

NoviceLurker

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Nothing in that assembly is proper plumbing.
P-trap from a shower goes directly down into a p-trap. The street 90 of the p-trap creates a "trap-arm" then heads toward the drain, but a vent needs to come off that trap-arm within five feet.
I can put a vent anywhere after it connects to sink line. If a vent is necessary, how is any shower base done now since everything I’ve read states that a vent need to be accessible and not buried in a wall? Attaching it to the cast iron pup that was there, there will be ZERO vent. No place to put one. The shower drain goes to the vertical stack that’s about 10ft away.
 

Terry

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Most vents are in the wall and go up through the roof. Unless you are talking about a replaceable Auto Air Vent which needs to be accessible for both air and replacement.
 

NoviceLurker

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Most vents are in the wall and go up through the roof. Unless you are talking about a replaceable Auto Air Vent which needs to be accessible for both air and replacement.
Since this was a tub, the overflow acted as the vent, right?

So, with this situation, it will be impossible for me to use the cast iron because there’s no way I can see how to add an AAV. Now, I’m not sure what to do? If the above pipe layout I did is not usable, I’m not sure how to proceed?

See photo attached. Red plug is cast iron.
 

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Breplum

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No the tub overflow is NOT the vent (though it does allow water to keep flowing out of the drain).
It takes a lot of knowledge to understand the code and how it all works.
I recommend at least to have a licensed plumber help lay out your desired predicament.
FH03DJA_INSFIB_01.JPG
 

NoviceLurker

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No the tub overflow is NOT the vent (though it does allow water to keep flowing out of the drain).
It takes a lot of knowledge to understand the code and how it all works.
I recommend at least to have a licensed plumber help lay out your desired predicament.
FH03DJA_INSFIB_01.JPG
If that’s the case then, this 100 year old house that has ever had a problem with drainage other than lead failing, and cast iron rusting on the inside changing the inside diameter, then this tub should never have been able to drain flawlessly aside from hair clogs.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Are you asking questions or telling everyone on this site with decades of experience each how to install plumbing? I'm a tad confused here.
 

NoviceLurker

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Are you asking questions or telling everyone on this site with decades of experience each how to install plumbing? I'm a tad confused here.
Asking, of course. I don’t see any vent for the shower nor the toilet. The toilet is under three feet away from main stack. The tub drain is about nine feet max.
 

Mikha'el

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If that’s the case then, this 100 year old house that has ever had a problem with drainage other than lead failing, and cast iron rusting on the inside changing the inside diameter, then this tub should never have been able to drain flawlessly aside from hair clogs.
There are plenty of plumbing (and electrical for that matter) installations out there that don't meet code, but "work." Until they don't.
 
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