Recent content by Cacher_Chick

I'm curious as to best practices, if a dishwasher draws 17 amps and a disposal draws 7-8, should there not be 2 home run circuits to support these appliances? Knowing the dishwasher is near the upper limit of a 20a circuit capacity, it seems it should be on a dedicated circuit with a simplex...

I admittedly did butcher this post in several ways. My question was about the electrode grounding conductor, which you have corrected my inversion of words "grounding electrode conductor" being proper. Doh! Thank you for referencing the applicable code section, you have answered the question...

As a matter of code compliance, in a main service panel where the bonding screw is in place, does it matter if the GEC is terminated on the panel's neutral bar or on the ground bar?

I am wondering because it will be something I only plan to use seasonally so I would rather just set it up and utilize it without wondering if the village is going to have to become involved.

I am hoping for some insight on this from the career electricians and/or others here who are versed in the trade. I have an empty lot with no utilities and have been using a battery powered pump to pull water from a channel for irrigation. I picked up a pair of used solar panels and a charge...

I would do it and then leak test it, knowing that if there is any leak you will have to start over with every joint from that point on.

Where I live, the curb stop and the meter both belong to the utility. If I need to replace a main shut-off, I call them to turn the water off to the building. If they run into problems with the curb stop, they have to fix it. Many of our water lines are 8' deep.

It will work. Do position the AAV as high as possible to help keep it from becoming contaminated from splash-back or a backup,

Regular drywall is fine and a good quality kitchen & bath paint is adequate to protect the drywall from moisture. I caulk all transitions with 100% silicone caulk after painting.

On some wells a hold-down rod is used to ensure that the pitless stays in space as the water level rising up can float the drop pipe.

The hose that is made for that faucet might be the only one that fits it. We cannot usually wait for parts to fix a customer's kitchen sink, so we replace the entire faucet. If you have time and patience, you will have to identify the make and model of the faucet to see if the company sells...

I dont have an inside cutter, but have accomplished the same thing with my Dremel tool.

You can remove enough of the underlying gravel/soil to fix it. Once the pipe is fixed just pack the soil back in and tamp it all tight.

What is the rest of the piping? I would be using all copper, so it would just be a matter of removing the piece that it too short and installing what is needed to finish the job.

The lamp would need to be meant to be hardwired, as is a wall sconce or other permanently mounted fixture. It cannot be hardwired with a cord or cable coming out of the wall.