Gerber tub drain > 1-1/2" PVC trap > 2" Cast Iron drain help

Users who are viewing this thread

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
Hello,
I just wanted to confirm some basics before I go shopping for parts...

I will be purchasing a Gerber brass tub drain, which has a brass tail piece with diameter 1 1/2".

1-1/2" PVC DWV Female Trap Adapter w/ Plastic Nut and Washer (Hub x Slip)
1-1/2" PVC Pipe Vertical Connection (5 inches)
1-1/2" PVC DWV P-Trap w/ Cleanout Adapter
2" x 1-1/2" PVC Sch. 40 90° Elbow (Socket x FIPT) (1-1/2" trap to 2" elbow)
2" PVC Pipe Horizontal Connection (2 feet)
2" No hub connection to 2" cast iron

Am I on the right track?
 

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
trap.jpg
 

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
Is the PVC Trap adapter going to be the best option to connect Brass tail pipe to P-trap?
Is it permitted to use a 2" x 1-1/2" elbow coming out of a P-trap?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,894
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
I am not a plumber. The cleanout is not usually suggested from what I have seen.

Is this going to potentially get covered up rather than staying readily accessible from below?
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,603
Reaction score
1,042
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
WHAT are you connecting to? THat will determine whether those are the correct parts or not. That "cleanout adapter" will drive you crazy if you ever have to snake the drain.
 

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
1.5 Tub drain --> P-trap -> 2" cast iron drain pipe
  1. Is a PVC slip joint the best way to connect the tub drain to P-trap?
  2. Where is the best point to transiton to 2"?
 

Mike Rock

Member
Messages
70
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Long Island, NY
Just curious, why not do everything in PVC? I've always used these below, it will outlast the Gerber and any other conventional brass slip nut tub drains out there.
polished-chrome-westbrass-drains-drain-parts-d4932-26-64_1000.jpg
 

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
@Mike Rock
I assumed the brass drains had more durable trip levers. Although your PVC photo doesn't have a trip lever at all..

What's your thoughts on PVC drains with trip levers + a strainer grid? It is a tenant apartment and I want to make it difficult for hair to pass thru the drain. The toe tap drain in your photo worries me in rental apartments.

600-TL-PVC-CP_86aad64f-c774-4e64-972c-7915a2657529_448x369.jpg



Would you glue the 1-1/2" tub drain to a 2" P-trap, using a 1-1/2" to 2" reducing coupler?
 
Last edited:

Mike Rock

Member
Messages
70
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Long Island, NY
I own a rental property, and I cant tell you how many times we had complaints of leaks from ceiling from the tenants below. We always had to bust open the ceiling to find out the issue, and sure enough it was always the brass drain assembly rotted or leaking from slip nuts from the tenant above.

If you are going to have access from below, then should not be an issue.

There are many versions of the PVC drain assembly's. Yes you can use a 1 1/2-2 inch coupling.

The only PITA with installing these PVC drains and overflow is you have to be accurate with your measurements when you glue everything together,
 

jamsam22

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NYC
@Mike Rock
Thanks for your recommendation to go with PVC drains.

From my initial shopping research, it seems more difficult than imagined to find a schedule 40 PVC tub drains (glue not slip) with grid strainer+lever. Is there a reason these aren't widely stocked?

https://www.gerberonline.com/product/41-572

How "forgiving" are these PVC measurements? This will be my first time working with PVC:)
 

Mike Rock

Member
Messages
70
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Long Island, NY
I don't know other than I usually get the drains at HD or Lowes, maybe not with a strainer, but with the pop up.

The important thing when gluing is both the drain and the overflow mating surfaces has to be perfectly flush with the tub.
Any slight deviation, and you risk the drain leaking where it meets the tub. I usually like to mount the drain and overflow to the tub first, then measure and cut the pipes, and try to glue the pipes on to the Tee while the drain and overflow connected. Its a bit tricky, but it can be done.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks