Because the CSV keeps the pump running continuously until you are finished using water, instead of cycling on and off while you are using water, there will not be too many cycles per day, even with the smaller tank. 22 gallons is about right for a 80 gallon tank. So if your house uses 300 gallons per day, that is 14 pump cycles. The CSV and small tank would make the pump run every time you use water, so if you use water 14 different times per day, the number of cycles will be the same. But if you ever use water for long periods of time, the CSV would reduce the number of cycles considerably. The main difference would be instead of seeing the pressure drop to a low 30 PSI two or three times during a shower, the CSV would just hold a strong 40 PSI constant for as long as you are in the shower. Not to mention the savings in money and space using the PK1A kit instead of another 80 gallon tank.
And I seriously doubt that tank bladder lasted 28 years. It probably had a crack in it by the second or third year. A little water got on the air side of the bladder and just sat there. It took many years to loose enough air to start causing a problem. But that little bit of water that has been on the inside of that bladder for 20 years is probably pretty nasty. A tank with a bad bladder may still work for a while, but it could easily be adding contamination to your drinking water.[/QUOTE
After reading a few years of blogs on this site I have a better understanding of complaints about cycling. I have never had the problem of when taking a shower the pump pressure rises up to the shut off point (50 psi) then drops to cut in (30 psi) & continualy repeating until shower complete, the same is with any fixture in the house that I have turned on, the exception would be flushing the comode which doesn't cause the pump to kick in unless small amounts of water have been used which caused the pressure to be close to cut-in (30 psi). I only notice a slight increase in shower pressure when pump kicks in & pressure stablizes at 43 psi until shower valve shut. That is the upstairs shower head. Tested the flow & pressure a few minutes ago by letting the shower run for 10 minutes then checking pressure at pump in garage which was stable at 43 psi
& collected 2.5 gpm thats with shower head on. With shower head off pressure stable at 42 psi collected 3.3 gpm. Bath tub (upstairs) stable 38 psi
collected 6 gpm. Out side hose bib stable 34 psi 12 gpm. Downstairs bath room & kitchen have better pressure & flow but any fixture running has enough flow which prevents pressure from building back up to cut-off pressure (50 psi). Note that all restrictors are removed from all fixtures including the ristrictors in the facuet areators. It take my pump 95 seconds to build pressure back up to cut-out (50psi) and the majority of that time is in the last 5 psi. If I understand correctly the csv will elemininate the bounce from the cut-in pressure (30 psi) to the 38 or 43 psi flowing pressure at the fixtures or the bounce would be so quick it would not be noticed due to the small pressure tank ? I have something on discharge of my pump that many many years ago had a small leak, can't remember what it's for & no amount of research helps. The pressure switch is run by it & I repaired the leak by replacing a gasket, it has something to do with pressure control thru pressure switch would like to know what it is & how it works. I knew at one time but can't remember it's been so many years. I have 3 fotos below and hope they stay there so you can see, don't have much computer skills it took 2 days to try & get photos on the screen, also if theres a lot of misspellings it's because I can't find that dam smell right button. V / R Dwayne