TOTO Aquia, Shut off Valve blocking

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Mike Ike

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The shut off valve of the supply line is currently 6 inch off centre from both the floor and flange.

Will it still work with the Toto Aquia? I'm assuming it will be directly behind the left side of the skirt, but if the valve was shortened to 4in will it work? The valve knob is like the wheel you turn - vintage style.

I've considered the dahl skirted toilet kit but it doesn't come in gold or brass finish (to my knowledge). All of our fixtures including the p-trap and hot/cold shut off valves are gold finished in 18k plated so it would look off if this stuck out in chrome.

Would really appreciate some feedback and help. I totally screwed up not considering these factors prior to renovations. With the wall tiles installed we now have an 11in rough-in from our previous 12in rough-in, and I could have easily moved the supply line valve over had I ahead.
 

Terry

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There is plenty of room behind an Aquia for a shutoff valve. However, you need 11.5" on the rough.

aquia_install_fig_5.jpg


At 12" there is 1/2" behind the tank. There is a chance you can move the adapter away from the wall and snag a 1/2" more.
 

WJcandee

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With only 11", you are really looking at a Toto Original Drake, either with the regular tank (CST744E) or the New Tank Option (CST744EN). The Original Drake will fit happily on an 11" rough-in, assuming no deep baseboard.
 

Mike Ike

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Thank you for your replies. Unfortunately we only have 11 inch rough-in. The drake is not that appealing. I was looking at the spec diagram for the Kohler Supreme. On a 12inch rough-in it leave 13/16" gap between the tank and the wall. Is it possible to nudge the toilet forward by 1/4" to make it work? We don't mind it touching the wall, actually prefer it.

Thanks again, great forum - full of knowledge.
 

Mike Ike

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Pardon the error. You're right Terry, it is a Toto except not the Supreme II. It's the Supreme S113 (round, not elongated). We're trying to keep it round and low height to accommodate countertop extended above toilet. And of course, one piece.

https://www.totousa.com/eco-supreme-one-piece-toilet-128-gpf-round-bowl

In the spec sheet you can see that it's showing 13/16" gap between tank and wall. I was wondering if we can move the toilet once we set it on the flange forward by 1/4" to make it fit (we have 11 inch rough in). I don't even know if it's possible; is there even any playroom once toilet sits on flange or is it dead-on and that's it?

Reach4, I was told by saleswoman Unifit will only work on skirted Toto toilets - is she wrong?
 
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Mike Ike

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This is what our current flange looks like

We'll have to put another flange (correct name?) on top of the old flange since we put tiles on the floor (floor is now 1 inch high than before). Is there a flange you recommend that will be easier to gain 1/4" ?

I hope I explained it properly, I'm as novice as it comes when it comes to plumbing
 
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Mike Ike

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It's a holiday here in Canada and we're away. Will get you the diameter soon as we get back, thanks for your help
 

Jadnashua

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Unfortunately, way too many people leave the details of the toilet flange and water supply until after they've put new flooring and maybe walls up, then have problems with things fitting! Before the new floor went on would have been a great time to move the pipe so you had a standard offset AND install it where it was designed to go, on TOP of the FINISHED floor. An inch recessed is a bit more than I'd be comfortable with. I think you'd have problems with (most, if not all) waxless seals, and even two wax rings may not be enough to seal things. So, you may be stuck with trying to stack and then seal one or more flange extender rings if you're going to try to 'cheat' or offset the toilet forward from the wall.
 

Mike Ike

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Hey Terry, the diameter of the hole of the flange is 4 inches. The diameter of the flange itself overall is 6 3/4 inches

Does this mean it will work with the horn of the Toto allowing me some room (1/4inch) to move forward?
 

Mike Ike

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Unfortunately, way too many people leave the details of the toilet flange and water supply until after they've put new flooring and maybe walls up, then have problems with things fitting! Before the new floor went on would have been a great time to move the pipe so you had a standard offset AND install it where it was designed to go, on TOP of the FINISHED floor. An inch recessed is a bit more than I'd be comfortable with. I think you'd have problems with (most, if not all) waxless seals, and even two wax rings may not be enough to seal things. So, you may be stuck with trying to stack and then seal one or more flange extender rings if you're going to try to 'cheat' or offset the toilet forward from the wall.

I wish I knew even the basics about toilets or plumbing. When all was said and done I noticed it too late and I questioned it too late as well.

I didn't know that. Things just went from bad to real bad. What to do now?
 

Mike Ike

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I searched online and see that 1 inch is not uncommon and can be fixed with stacking flange extenders/spacers.

Considering the previous floor tiles were approx 1/4 inch in height with its cement then I'm actually more likely to be 3/4 inch below new floor surface and not 1 inch.

I would need to get the flange just over the floor surface, is this right?
 

Jadnashua

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During new construction, because they don't want to pay the plumber to come back after the finished flooring is in, it is not uncommon for them to install the flange on the subflooring, and with a typical vinyl floor, and even some tile, it's not a huge issue (but it's not how the toilets and flanges were designed for optimum performance). In that case, stacking two wax rings, one with a horn to help keep things centered, and one on the bottom without, will work, and there are probably millions of homes with that situation in place with no issues. IT gets messier if things are lots lower. If you stack wax rings higher and ever need to plunge the toilet, you can blow out the wax seal. If you get it too thick, it's hard to keep things aligned, and it can partially stick into the outlet, blocking things, or leave a gap in the wax, letting sewer gasses, sewer flies, and maybe waste out. Stacking flange extender rings can work, but each part you stack is another potential weak point for a leak, so you must do it carefully. IT can work.

One of the pros will let you know their threshold on how far recessed the flange can be and have a reliable install. Personally, I wouldn't want to try it with wax alone if the top of the flange was 1" below the finished floor.

If when you set the toilet, you compress the wax, and you don't get some of it blocking or shifting, it may work...see what the pros have to say. Ideally, you'd cut the one out, and install it at the proper level, but we don't live in an ideal world. It isn't a disaster, just less than ideal, especially when combined with your need to offset the toilet and move it forward. Some of the waxless seals actually have a long horn that could easily handle that depth, but they only work if properly centered on the flange which it appears you can't do unless you were to buy a 10" rough-in toilet. To make a 12" rough-in work on 11", you have to cheat, and most (if not all) waxless seals won't work that way.
 

Mike Ike

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I met with the board of directors of our condo board and in short, tampering with the interior main line plumbing of the building is prohibited.

Even prior to installing the floor tiles I would still not have been allowed to make any adjustment to the toilet pipe.

Really left with no other alternative other than stacking flange extenders, and it's more like 3/4 inch not 1 inch.

Considering flange extenders will be used does this prohibit me from moving toilet forward by 1/4 inch? Am I out of luck for sure? If I do, is it very likely there will be a leak or is it just a small risk? The Toto Supreme
 

Jadnashua

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If you've raised the flange with extenders, and do it well enough to ensure it is both stable and seals properly, functionally, it's as if it was installed at the proper level. But, one thing to keep in mind, the extender rings are plastic, and those are nowhere near as strong as a metal rim on a preferred flange. If your top ring were a repair ring (metal), that should overcome that problem. That should allow you to 'cheat' the toilet forward in the same manner as if the flange was installed at design location, on top of the finished flooring.

One of the pros would best comment on whether extender rings are required, but personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable with the top of the flange buried 3/4" below the floor. A typical metal rimmed flange sits above the floor maybe about 1/4", and one wax ring works fine. That total of 1" for an extra wax ring without raising the flange, may be more than that second wax ring can seal, and you certainly, do not want to use three!
 
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